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Translated By DeepL

Vintager

Text and photographs by Tomoyuki Tanaka

As you know, the word "vintage" is derived from the word for grapes and wine, and the word "vintager" originally meant "a person who harvests grapes," so why not call a person who collects vintage clothing a "vintager"? How about "Vintager" as in "one who collects vintage clothes"? This time, we will feature a Swedish army's Prisoner Jacket and Pants Setup.

  • Edit_Yosuke Ishii

3rd A chance encounter, like an inevitable one.
1940s Swedish Military Prisoner Jacket & Pants

This time we are talking about prison uniforms. Did you know that old prison uniforms are always highly prized in the secondhand clothing market, and are sometimes sold at high prices? It is ironic that many of us Vintagers have a thing for old prison uniforms, even though we were raised by parents who told us, "If you do anything wrong, you will be thrown in jail!

Swedish Army Prisoner Jacket and Pant Setup in a tight-fitting striped fabric.
. at a quick glance, it does not look very much like a prison uniform.

This time, we would like to introduce a prisoner's uniform (Prisoner's Jacket and Pants Setup), which seems to have been made in Sweden from around the end of 1930's to the beginning of 1940's. Many old American-made prison uniforms have black and white (or navy blue) stripes, which often appear in comic books and movies. Many old prison uniforms made in the U.S. have the black and white (or navy blue) striped pattern that often appears in comic books and movies, but you will not find such uniforms made in Europe. However, they usually have few pockets, or the fabric, pattern, and sewing are simple or poorly done, or, to be honest, are of the lowest grade as clothing, but this set-up can be said to be of good quality. The stripes are well matched. The texture of the striped fabric, made of cotton and tightly packed, can be assessed to be comparable to or better than that of ordinary workwear of the time. . Moreover, it is a tailored jacket with slightly dressy lapels. The narrow V-zone and gentle A-line silhouette are even a little elegant, depending on how you look at it. The metal buttons that come with it are the same as those used on the uniforms of the Swedish army before the early days of World War II, so it is assumed that it was used in the prisons associated with the army.

Actually, I bought this jacket at a vintage store in Kyoto called "Capri" about 10 years ago. I think I heard that it was a dead stock, purchased from a dealer, and put on the store shelves after a one-wash. I had no idea how to wear it, so it sat in my wardrobe for 10 years. Just the other day, I found a pair of pants in dead stock at the Kawasaki store of "Stray Sheep," a vintage clothing store that had just finished stocking up in Europe. They were the perfect size, so I bought them immediately. Mr. Seta, the owner of "Stray Sheep" said he got it from a dealer based in Berlin, Germany, and I think Mr. Tanaka, the owner of "Capri" also said he bought it from a dealer in Germany 10 years ago. . It may be that the source was the same. However, when I consider that the Swedish-made prison uniforms manufactured more than 80 years ago were once shipped to Germany, and then purchased by the Kyoto and Kawasaki vintage clothing stores with a 10-year time lag, and then purchased by me, who lives in Tokyo, and finally completed the set-up, is it a coincidence or an inevitability?

The jacket is made with a diagonal beating, as seen in classical European tailoring.
A-line silhouette with gentle, gradual expansion from the sides. No breast pockets,
One patch pocket on each side. No vent and sleeve buttons.

. The backward falling line of the shoulder seams is also a characteristic of older jackets.

. The fabric ears (selvage) are located at the center back side split of the jacket.

The pants have no belt loops , and come with suspender buttons and a cinch belt.
The shape of the back is split into a V shape and rises up like the tail fin of a fish,
Pre-1940s detailing.

Front design of pants.
As you can see, the belt will have metal suspender buttons.

. back with V-shaped cutout and cinch belt. No hip pockets because of the prison uniform.

. The length is zdong thick and straight.

The front is, of course, button-fly.

The buttons are four-hole metal buttons on both the top and bottom.

The same military-use metal buttons are used on the top and bottom, but the jacket is sewn with white cotton thread in the = pattern, while the pants are sewn with black cotton thread in the x pattern. It is a mystery whether they were made in different factories or at different times, but the fabrics are definitely the same and there is no color blurring.

. Mr. Tanaka heads to the party wearing a prison uniform setup.
No one on the street would think that these clothes are prison uniforms.

The heat had abated and the weather had suddenly become more comfortable, so I decided to go out to a party held in Ginza wearing this dress. The photo was taken of me at the Ginza 4-chome intersection by Mr. Matsumoto, editor-in-chief of Web Media's "OPENERS," who was present at the party and took a picture of my rear view.

Ginza is a town where prisoners of all kinds of desires gather, and the 80-year-old Swedish prison uniform is a good match, don't you think? LOL!

PROFILE

Tomoyuki Tanaka
female genital mutilation

Born in 1966 in Kyoto, Japan, he is a DJ and music producer active in Japan and abroad. He has experience as a MD for a major apparel company and as a magazine editor, and has a deep knowledge of all things vintage, including clothing, books, records, watches, audio, and cars. A true Vintager at heart.
www.fpmnet.com

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