OAMC 2018SS Collection Interview with Luke Meier in Paris
After working as the head designer of Supreme, Luke Mayer is the creative director of OAMC, which he started with friends in various cities around the world. We interviewed Luke Mayer at his showroom during an exhibition in Paris a few days after the launch of his 2018 SS collection.
In the epilogue of the 2018 SS Season, we will be discussing "The weight of the world is love. under the burden of solitude, under the burden of dissatisfaction." from "Howl," a masterpiece by Allen Ginsberg, an American poet and one of the leading figures of Beat literature. Under the burden of solitude, under the burden of dissatisfaction. Under the burden of solitude, under the burden of dissatisfaction. I heard that this season, you are sending out a message that is focused on what is right and what is necessary.
Luke Mayer ("Luke")There is a lot going on around the world these days. Violence, discrimination, injustice, and corruption that are hard to believe one's eyes. I wonder what the world will be like in the future if these social conditions continue, and I am thinking about that in my own way and sending out a positive message. Personally, I believe that the world these days is linked to the 60s in some ways, and for the 2018 SS season, I developed something with an awareness of the Ivy League and preppy of the 60s. The graphics are related to Ivy League slogans and protests of the time, and the clothes are inspired by American traditional style. Uniform-like jackets, button-down shirts, and preppy-style knitwear express an anti-authoritarian attitude by distorting and capturing Ivy elements. By playing with the silhouettes of traditional items, we give them an "OAMC" look.
Can you tell us about some of the most iconic items?
rook (chess piece)This white coat is symbolic. It is basic, yet condenses the concept of this season. The shape is a sampling of vintage styles, with reference to the functional silhouette and details of military wear, and the quality of the fabric and attention to detail, symbolizing this season's OAMC in terms of both technology and materials. It is hard to tell at first glance, but various fabrics are combined. For example, silk is used for the collar to feel good against the skin.
rook (chess piece)Then there is the skill and technique involved in this tropical wool and cotton tweed coat jacket. The lower part of the pockets are processed, leaving only the weft threads, and the plaid fabric is sewn on later by hand.
rook (chess piece)This blouson features delicate embroidery on the back. The motif is based on the book "HOWL" by beatnik author Allen Ginsberg. The tough material is contrasted with soft silk. Aggressive processing of high-quality materials used in couture is what I like to do.
Up close like this, you can still see the beauty of the materials and silhouettes. And many of them are technical and delicately customized.
rook (chess piece)Customization is one of the keywords of the brand. Through home-made customization and arrangement, we put messages into our collections and bring out the brand's world view. All fabrics are developed in Japan and Italy, as in the past. This season's silhouettes are sharp, but with rounded silhouettes throughout, in an attempt to revolutionize the existing menswear silhouettes. Arranging the traditional silhouette, that is MY WAY.
The show was also impressive in its use of accessories and patches that accentuated the styling, such as red clip pins rolled up the sleeves of coats, and fabrics that looked great against the dark colors.
rook (chess piece)Yes, the use of clip pins is a key element this season, and the 60's formals are impressive in their use of pins, aren't they? These accessories are handmade in silver and galvanized. The patches have a message of protest that symbolizes the season. Camouflage patterns are hand painted. Shoes include steel-toed work boots and hand painted sneakers. I hope that each person who comes into possession of an OAMC garment with a message will interpret and customize it in their own way, and that they will be able to communicate their personal thoughts through fashion. Fashion is not all about ideas. Ideas are important, but perfection as a product is also important. You have to give proper shape to your ideas and create clothes while imagining how people will wear them. I believe that the "OAMC" style of creation, which mixes the traditional with the cutting-edge and adds a sense of playfulness through customization, is an adventure.
You are currently based in Paris and Milan. Also, some people have been asking for a women's collection, but what are your plans for this?
rook (chess piece)I used to go back and forth between Paris and Milan, but now I mostly come to Milan for production. I come to Paris for shows and to relax. As for women's wear, women are already wearing our men's collection, so I think it is natural for us to start. Do you prefer to take men's clothes and put them into women's sizes as they are, or do you prefer to rearrange them into shapes that are unique to women? My wife says it's better to leave it as it is, but what do you guys think? I would like to hear opinions from various people.
After working as the head designer at Supreme, Luke launched OAMC and was also selected as the creative director of Jil Sander with his wife, Lucy, starting from the 2018-19 AW season. You have been active in a variety of fields in the fashion world. How did you become interested in fashion?
rook (chess piece)When I was a teenager, I started skateboarding and felt that there was a culture in fashion. Even if you wear something just right, it is simply cool. I learned that it was possible to do that. Before becoming the head designer of Supreme, I worked for an Italian tailor. Tailors have their own style, and although their approach to fashion is different from that of the street, the genre is irrelevant. I realized that it is okay to express what you think is cool. That is one of the things I learned from working at Supreme and other fashion sites.
Finally, if you had to sum up OAMC in one word, how would you describe it?
rook (chess piece)Me
The confidence in her assertion that "OAMC" is her own was evident. Born in Canada, he went to school in England and New York before becoming a street influencer at Supreme. With his unique global perspective, he fused tailoring and street fashion. Three years have passed since then, and we look forward to seeing his next step in the future.
Luke Meier
In April 2017, he and his wife, Lucy Mayer, were appointed creative directors of Jil Sander.
OAMC
www.oamc.com
