FEATURE｜Override meets 4 designers. 4 designers who bring new life to override Vol.2
override meets 4 designers.
Four designers who bring new life to "override" Vol.2
Japan has long had the custom of dressing up the head. Override," a select store of hats, updates the sensibility nurtured by the Japanese people for each era and conveys the charm of hats to a wide range of people. The collaboration between "override" and four brands promoted by HOUYHNHNM's has been realized! In this special feature, we interview the designers of the brands and show styling using the collaborated items in the front and back parts of the magazine to unravel the charm of the items. The second part features Kaito Yamamoto of "Son Of The Cheese" and Naoki Moriyama of "77circa". The second part features Naoki Moriyama of "77circa," and focuses on the brand's styling using models who are closely related to the brand, as well as their own particular approach to design.
Kaito Yamamoto / Son Of The Cheese The brand started in 2013. The brand started making clothes based on the inspiration generated in a community space where photographers, designers, skaters, models, and other creative people gather. The "Sanova Lounge" in Namikibashi, Shibuya, carries the brand's clothing and also has a sandwich store called "Vimy Stand. It functions as a space where not only clothing lovers but also people of various races gather.
The image is that of a hunting that can be worn even by skaters.
Where do you get your inspiration for making clothes?
Yamamoto.I think a lot of it may come from my own real life. The brand "Sunova Cheese" itself was inspired by the people who gather at the community space I created. My friends and acquaintances, the customers who come to the store, and the staff who work with me. The reason I am able to continue my brand is because I have the support of many people.
What kind of collection are you currently developing for Fall/Winter 2005?
Yamamoto.It was just at the time when I was interested in hunting during the period when I was designing the collection, and I created the collection based on that interest.
The seasonal catalog is also unique.
Yamamoto.The theme is "the night before hunting. The story is about a party at an inn the day before going on a hunting trip (laughs).
How did you become interested in hunting?
Yamamoto.When my own child started leaving food out of his meal, I decided to try to educate him about nutrition. So I thought, first of all, I should study too. Another reason was that I suddenly thought, "It would be good if I had hunting skills," which is an instinctive part of human nature. So I actually went to get a hunting license.
Is there anything that is important to you when making clothes?
Yamamoto.I guess I don't want to overdo it. I don't mean simplicity, but I don't think excessive design is necessary. My ideal is to create a brand that can be widely accepted by a wider range of people, rather than to aim for a narrow market and stick to it. I design with this in mind.
I heard that Mr. Yamamoto usually does not wear a hat.
Yamamoto.That's right. Of course, the brand releases hats, but I myself only wear knit caps. I don't look good in hats (laughs). (laugh) So I sometimes admire people who look good in hats. There are gentlemen who wear hats with their hair set. When I see someone like that, I want to wear a hat like that, but I still haven't reached that level yet.... I would like to get there someday.
What do you consider when designing hats for "SANOBA CHEESE"?
Yamamoto.I have many hat wearers around me, so I think about them. That is, sometimes I actually listen to their voices and use them in my designs.
What kind of questions do you ask?
Yamamoto.What kind of hats do you want? Or, what do you like about it? I think it's about "what kind of hat would you like to have?
The item with "Override" this time is based on hunting, isn't it?
Yamamoto.Designed for this season's collection. The ear pads are made of mouton fabric. In fact, we are using the same fabric for the clothing as well, and we are proposing that they be worn as a set-up. The quality of the products is such that we could not have done it with our own background, and it is as expected of Override. With this quality, you can use them for a long time. I am really satisfied with the quality of the hats.
What were some of the design aspects that you focused on?
Yamamoto.Shape and sizing. The shape and sizing are designed from a skater's point of view, so it is slightly deeper than a regular hunting cap. The head circumference is also a bit larger, so that you can wear it with your ears in. Hunting has a classic image of being worn by old men, but we have updated it so that it can be worn by younger people as well. However, that doesn't mean that older people can't wear them. Well, I would be happy if people from all walks of life could wear it.
Style of Son Of The Cheese.
Yamamoto says, "I updated hunting jackets from a skater's point of view. He used Alec, a skater who works at his store in Namikibashi, Shibuya, as a model, and proposed a street-style look.
The sizing and the choice of each item have a strong street feel, but the color matching of the hunting cap and jacket sublimates it into a clean style.
Yamamoto.When I was around 20 years old, I studied abroad in the U.S., and one of the things I learned there was "color matching. One of the things I learned there was "color matching." Americans selected caps and sneakers that matched the color of their clothes, and I thought that was cool. I am conscious of matching colors in the same way, but I also match a jacket to bring out the classic mood of the hunting caps, creating a somewhat mature styling.
Hunting from a fashion perspective. The point is sizing.
override × SON OF THE CHEESE BOMBER CAP ¥13,000＋TAX
This item from "Sunova Cheese" features a hunting cap with added ear pads. This item was created for this season's "hunting" themed collection, and its classic style is exquisitely matched with the subdued olive green color. The height is slightly deeper and the head circumference is wider. The size is also suitable for street fashion.
