The era of snowboarding as the dominant side-riding winter sport is not over (......), but it seems that ski culture is once again being revitalized. What is particularly noteworthy is the evolution of clothing. Just as outdoor brands have adapted to skiing and snowboarding, so too have the clothes produced by specialized ski manufacturers continued to evolve. We asked Mr. Takatoshi Akutagawa, a creative director who played an active role as a competitive skier in his school days, to talk about the recent ski boom and clothing.
Born in 1972. He has been involved in the direction of various brands, as well as editing and writing for magazines and websites. He has a deep knowledge of sneakers, especially the NIKE collection, which is kept in the Oregon headquarters. As a skier, he has participated in various competitions as a student. Currently, he enjoys skiing, camping, and outdoor culture in general with his family and friends.
It will take a little more time for the ski culture to heat up again.
Now, here and there, I sense signs of a resurgence in the ski culture.
There is a good trend, but it is only a small part of the picture. I think it will take some more time for it to spread. It may have something to do with the fact that the times are changing, just as in the case of fashion, there is a revival of 90s clothing. There are many people of our generation who have never snowboarded, but have skied before. I do feel that there is an atmosphere of "I forgot about it for a while, but skiing is great.
There are people around me who used to be snowboarders but now say, "I want to ski this year, so I bought some equipment," so I think it is likely to increase in the future.
The snow quality in Japan is said to be very good, and many foreign skiers come to Japan to enjoy it.
The quality of snow in Japan is the best in the world. That is why there are so many foreigners at ski resorts in Hakuba and Hokkaido on weekdays. The Japanese people are also being encouraged by this boom.
Also, from the late 90s to the early 2000s, when snowboarding was at its peak, skiing did not look cool, not to say that it was stifling. But now, backcountry skiing has matured, fashionable equipment has increased, and a good trend is developing.
In the old days, there was no waterproof function, so when it rained, I would get soaked. I had to dry it in the drying room, and the next day it would shrink a bit. Now I don't have that kind of stress, and the gear itself has evolved and is becoming more and more comfortable.
What was your impression of ski wear at the time?
There were several domestic brands, but I was a fan of "Phoenix," a brand worn by top athletes. At that time, there were an excessive number of ski related brands in Japan, but most of them went out of business due to the decline in demand for skis. But Phoenix has survived because it has worked hard in the professional field.
Enjoy ski wear as fashion.
-What is the history of ski wear itself?
First of all, snowboards came out and the atmosphere on the slopes changed dramatically. Everyone was wearing brown and black tops and bottoms, and the trend toward skateboarding was also a bit oversized. Skiing was also influenced by this trend, and there was even a time when racing wear was only gray and black. I think it was at that time that things started to change.
Once I moved closer to a snowboard-like feel, and then the outdoor elements came in. However, outdoor makers are basically single-tone, so I think it is important to switch colors in a way that is typical of skiwear. Especially on snow, it is hard to tell who the wearer is when he or she gets gassed.
It is commonplace nowadays to use outdoor brand items for town use, but have you ever thought of wearing ski wear in town?
I have too strong an image of competition to wear them on the street. I think this is similar to the feeling that many people have about gym shoes worn in gym class or basketball players not being able to wear bash shoes on the street.
But it is normal for all kids who ski competitively in the US to wear outdoor brands. Of course, it is impossible to wear oversized snowboarding clothes in a race, but as long as the clothes themselves are adaptable, it is fine. I think you should wear it with a more liberal sense of freedom.
In the past, there was a clear categorization: ski wear was for skiing, and outdoor wear was for wearing things made by specialized outdoor manufacturers. Nowadays, however, it is commonplace to use items made by outdoor manufacturers for snowboarding and town use.
Tight silhouettes are also becoming mainstream in snowboarding, and I feel that skiing and snowboarding are coming closer and closer together.
The most attractive feature of "Phoenix" items is their sizing for Japanese people. Naturally, the best ski wear is also easy to move in, and I hope that ski culture will spread from the fashion angle as well.
Takatoshi Akutagawa selects this season's "Phoenix" outdoor section
External Down Jacket
This down jacket uses DRYBARRIER(R)10000. The jacket has an offset baffle construction to block cold air from the quilt, and an AquaGuard zipper on the front. 700-fill-power durable water-repellent down with an anti-static function is also a plus. JPY42,120 (PH552OT20)
I like how you switched the color on only one sleeve. Many outdoor manufacturers use a single color of black or red, or a two-tone design. It's easier to wear something with a bit of fun like this than something that is all red.
Darien Jacket
Waterproof material with breathability and water pressure resistance of more than 10,000mm and hybrid insulation "THERMO WOOL" with 35% wool as the inner lining are used. The high heat retention and moisture absorption/heat generation functions are useful not only for outdoor scenes, but also for town use. 27,000 (PH652OT23)
Classic designs like this are often vulnerable to rain, but this jacket is made with technology that only a ski brand can offer. However, this jacket is made with technology that only a ski brand can provide. It is a convenient piece of clothing for both town use and outdoor use.
dri-release Wool Border L/S
Multifunctional innerwear with "dry release wool" that minimizes stress in active situations by absorbing perspiration, quick-drying, static electricity control, UV cut, deodorant, etc. It is widely used for everything from sports to town use. 7,452 (PH652TL19)
I am glad that it has a border because most innerwear from sports manufacturers are solid colors. The material contains wool, so I don't mind the smell, and it's good for winter innerwear. It looks good to wear on bare skin.
Fluffy Pants
The "DRYSPHERE100" ripstop material with excellent durability and water repellency is used. By using 700 fill-power sticky down as the padding, these down pants are lightweight and compact. Can be stowed in the waist pocket. 19,940（PM652IB01)
Down pants tend to be too lightweight to be useful, but these pants have pockets, which is good. But these pants have pockets, which is good. Pockets are definitely more convenient when wearing them on a camping trip, too.
This season's "Phoenix" skis selected by Takatoshi Actagawa
Mush Jacket & Mush Pants
A snow jacket and pants set-up with distinctive color blocking. This ski wear has Phoenix's unique features, such as shoulder reinforcements and watch windows that do not interfere with the design. The yellow ribs accentuate the design. Jacket ¥43,200 (PA672OT21), pants ¥32,400 (PA572OB21)
The number one reason why I chose this wear is that it has a window for a lift ticket. Previously, overseas manufacturers did this, but now all overseas ski resorts have IC chips, so there is no need to look at them, so they are not attached. I think this is also a good point for wearing at Japanese ski resorts. The coloring also has an 80's feel to it, which is cute.
Hybrid Fleece Jacket
Stretch fleece with "DIGENITE THERMO" inside allows you to maximize your performance without restricting your movement during sports. ¥15,120 (PF672KT04)
The design is reminiscent of a slalom with padding. Recently, PrimaLoft and Down have been pushed aside, but I still prefer a breathable fleece when skiing" (Actagawa).
Hybrid Fleece Pants
These pants are also made of stretch fleece. The length is great for easy layering without restricting movement. Both models are worn by the Phoenix team. ¥12,960（PF672KB04)
On warm days, I only wear tights under my snow pants, but on cold days, especially around the waist, it gets cold, so I find it comfortable to wear a short length insulation like this.
left: Outlast®Mid wt. Stretch Tights
Hybrid material using Outlast® with temperature control function and SUDRY® Infinity® with washable and water absorbent function. Flat seams minimize unevenness at the seams, significantly reducing stress on the skin. The use of DEOSEAM® deodorant yarn suppresses unpleasant odors after sweating, and the 4-way stretch allows for easy movement. JPY4,968 (PH652UB25)
Tights are a pretty important item because I always wear them. The more elastic they are, the less stress there is, and the flat seams are also good for easy entry. I think they are convenient because you can wear them in situations other than skiing.
right: DELTA Leather Grove
The "DELTA ARCH" wraps around the fingers on three sides to keep the pole maneuverable. Hemmed loops are provided for easy detachment. ¥16,200 (PH672GL03)
I like the fact that they are breathable and waterproof and made of leather. Leather gloves are comfortable to wear. The loop makes them easy to put on.
