Nobukuni Taishi , carrying Dumonks. | feature

DEUX MONCX & TAISHI NOBUKUNI

Nobukuni Taishi , carrying the Dumonks.

The leather bag brand "DEUX MONCX" continues to sell well among discerning customers. The reason for this success is the straightforward craftsmanship backed by Japanese artisans, and a design that blends in with the current era without a hint of kleptomania. The delicious smell of "Dumonks" lured Mr. Taishi Nobukuni to our studio. He is a designer who took the world by storm, but he was not satisfied with his fame, so he jumped into the world of tailoring.

Photo_Hiroyuki Takashima
Text_Kei Takegawa
Edit_Ryo Muramatsu

Taishi Shinkoku
Born in Kumamoto, Japan in 1970 . Graduated from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, launched Taishinobukuni in 1998, was creative director of Takeo Kikuchi for 4 years from 2004, and became a tailor in 2011. In 2011, he switched to tailoring and launched "The Craftivism".

Manufacturing symbolized by a cut.

JapanThis is a kirime, or a cut and finished edge. I first saw this cut-out technique at Comme des Garcons in the 1980s.

I became the best in Japan (!) in the national mock examinations and was told I could get into any school. and was said to be able to get into any school, he started to devote himself to fashion.

Japan. At the time, I was oscillating between utility-oriented manufacturing and that of a designer. Although Comme des Garcons was a designer brand, it was very good at incorporating utility in its production.

The cut is a detail that symbolizes "Dumonks," which is oriented in the opposite direction of mass production.

JapanI see. Japanese craftsmanship has always been somewhat square and lacking in color. I call it the "Asakusa smell" (laughs).

I get the impression that "Dumonks" is made by craftsmen who know how to make things.

The scale of the manufacturing site could be described as a workshop. Yes, the charm of "Dumonks" is its emphasis on repeatedly making minor changes to improve the perfection of its products. The bag with the cut is a long-selling model representing the brand called "Legato.

JapanThat is admirable.

The results of the minor changes are reflected in the storage structure. The structure is one of the strengths of the Japanese brand, and I think it is one of the best in the market. In addition to the document holder, pen and card holder, and other compartments, the double zipper and three-way opening are standard features, and the opening and closing structure is impeccable.

JapanI see.

Mr. Nobukuni says that the reason he became a tailor was because "I was fascinated by the fact that you know who you are making it for," and I sense a similarity in the stance of "Dumonks," where craftsmen improve the precision of each piece based on feedback from the users.

A bag that blends in with the reverse style.

JapanI also like this supple leather.

. not to mention the example of Ancon, because the clothes are lighter, too. Catana" is a straightforward response to this challenge. The core material is omitted to the last possible moment in order to take advantage of the texture of the shrink leather.

Japan. yet it still has a solid appearance. I would wear it with a street-style suit, the "Dokachin Suit" (lol). Casual with casual is mediocre. This is my nature, but I want to go against the grain. It's the same with a delinquent making a suit, but I think that kind of swing will give birth to something new.

A traditional brief with a sturdy core is indeed heavy. The leather and stitching in "Catana" soften the heavy impression. The styling is only possible because of the idea of subtraction.

Japan(while picking up the bag) , I'll have the "Legato" from earlier with a seersucker jacket and this bag (pragmatic) with a shirt and slacks.

I will show you the actual styling later, but the last thing I want to talk about is the wetsuits that were just launched this past April. Tailoring and wetsuits is an idea from another dimension. This is another example of going against the grain.

JapanDarts have been added to give volume to the front and back of the chest. I think the application of tailor's techniques has greatly improved the comfort and silhouette of the garment. The lungs are not compressed, so breathing is easy, and the shoulder area moves without stress. I feel like I could stay underwater for hours.

. I have been surfing for a long time, and it was an idea that I had been warming up to try someday. This model is a collaboration with Dove (= Dove Surfing Wetsuits, a long-established company founded in 1975).

Mr. Nobukuni once said, "There is no tradition in Tokyo. Tokyo has no tradition. Tokyo has no traditions, but that does not mean that we should be bound by the rules that other countries have made. I think we should be more free. It is because Mr. Nobukuni is not bound by common sense that he was able to make this wetsuit. I wonder how "Dumonks" would turn out if a man like that were to cook it. I would like to see this collaboration.

JapanBy all means (laughs).

STYLE 01: CATANA

. 25cm wide at the hem. A real tabi at the foot of a very thick silhouette made of tailored linen. The "Katana" follows a traditional design and is a clever weight for a mode-oriented style. The Katana, which has a minimal core, is actually very flexible. It is like a "reverse" and is highly compatible.

The long-selling "Catana" model is reinforced and stabilized by two belts circling the body. The construction of the bag, which prioritizes the texture of the shrink leather and uses a minimal core material, is also a highlight. The storage structure, including the two side pockets, is also a must-have.Briefcase M ¥46,000+TAX

STYLE 02: PRAGMACHIC

High-count shirts and slacks. The styling looks legitimate at first glance, but the trompe l'oeil and Stan Smiths give the illusion of a tied-up look. Carrying the stately "pragmatic chic" will add to the chic atmosphere, as the name implies.

The new "Pragma Chic" for spring features a round-shaped double zip for a modern look. The body is made of leather manufactured by COPER of Italy. The leather, which is also used for furniture, is attractive for its durability and color. A leather-covered shoe horn is attached to the handle.Round Brief M ¥54,000+TAX

STYLE 03: LEGATO

The blue gradation on the base of the seersucker jacket is a cool and refreshing styling suitable for the coming season. The matching bag is by Legato. The key color is a dark gray that looks like brown from some angles. The ennui coloring is a good match.

The Legato is the brand's unmistakable fourth hitter. . The classic loop handle, the hand-stained antique leather, and the kerf finish. . It is full of specifications that can be called the quintessence of "Dumonks," which is based on the work of skilled craftsmen.Tote bag LH ¥48,000+TAX

Samsonite Japan
Phone: 0800-12-36910
www.deuxmoncx.jp

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