What is the best part of sneakers, from a shoemaker's perspective?

Sneaker Journal vol.7

From a shoemaker's point of view, what is the best part of sneakers?

Sneaker Journal" is a Series that takes up various events related to sneakers and delves into them from a HOUYHNHNM perspective. This time, we interviewed Kentaro Goho, a shoemaker. While working on high-end shoes for his own brand and overseas maisons, he is also a true sneaker enthusiast. And what sneakers are on his mind these days? We visited his workshop in Warabi City, Saitama Prefecture, to find out.

Photo_Masataka Nakada[STUH].
Interview & Text_Issey Enomoto
Edit_Hiroshi Yamamoto

Kentaro Goho / Shoemaker

. Born in Tokushima Prefecture in 1981. While a student at Ibaraki University's College of Education, he learned the basics of shoemaking under shoemaker Ariyoshi Inamura, who ran a shoe workshop in Warabi City, Saitama Prefecture. 2009, he established his own shoe workshop, "Glenstock". . In 2017, he supervised the development of Tabi Shoes for the TV drama "Rikuoh.

A very rare one-of-a-kind. The "Huinamu Trainer" was born!

five treasures of BuddhismHello . Since HOUYHNHNM is coming for an interview today, I have prepared something special for you. Here it is .

Wow! The letters "HOUYHNHNM" are emblazoned on the upper. Was this handmade by Mr. Goppo?

five treasures of BuddhismYes . It is a one-of-a-kind limited edition model made for HOUYHNHNM's, and its name is the "HOUYHNHNM Trainer" (laughs).

Wow, you can do such things. Does your workshop make special shoes like this if we ask for them?

five treasures of Buddhism. We will make any kind of shoes if you consult with us. Last year, we were commissioned by a TV production company to make Tabi Shoes for the drama "Riku-Oh.

Custom-made leather shoes are common , but I think it is rare for sneakers.

five treasures of BuddhismOur workshop is mainly custom-made and repair men's shoes, but we also accept orders for sneakers, boots, pumps, children's shoes, and any other kind of shoes.

I made my own wallaby as a free research project in the summer of 5th grade!

What originally inspired you to become a shoemaker?

five treasures of BuddhismI have been a child who likes to make things since I was a small child, and when I was in elementary school, I used to do things like imitate shoemaking. First, when I was in the third grade of elementary school, I made myself something that looked like a sneaker out of a tissue case. . It was a simple thing that I wrapped around my feet with duct tape.

When I was in the fifth grade of elementary school, I made a pair of reasonably authentic leather shoes with a wallaby motif. I secretly modified my father's leather jacket for the upper and took the liberty of borrowing the non-slip material from the wardrobe at home for the rubber outsole (laughs). When I submitted it as a free research project during summer vacation, it was a big hit with my classmates and homeroom teacher. My father gave me a hard time about it, though (laughs).

. You already had signs of wanting to be a shoemaker since you were in elementary school.

five treasures of Buddhism. Yes, that's right. After junior high school, I continued to make shoes on my own, but became obsessed with basketball. I worked hard to become a professional, but after a serious injury in high school, I gave up on my dream of becoming a professional and started to become a shoemaker in earnest.

five treasures of BuddhismThese are shoes I made when I was in high school. At the time, I wanted to buy a pro model from Adidas, but I couldn't afford it, so I made something similar myself.

five treasures of BuddhismThis is a pair of shoes I made when I was a university student. The theme was "How much can you squeeze the upper with a single string? and submitted it as a university project.

Leather shoes are wine , sneakers are beer!

What kind of shoes do you wear while making and repairing shoes as a shoemaker?

five treasures of BuddhismI am interested in shoes in general, and I like both leather shoes and sneakers. Heavy leather shoes and light sneakers , each has its own charm. If I were to use an analogy, leather shoes are like wine and sneakers are like beer. I hope you get the idea (laughs).

However, I especially love sneakers. Even now, I frequently check the Internet and magazines for information on new releases, and I wear sneakers almost exclusively in my daily life. When I visit shoe studios overseas, I see craftsmen who make high-end shoes wearing regular "Vans," which I find very cool. I myself follow in their footsteps.

The Danish shoe brand "Echo" is currently the focus of attention.

Can you tell us about some of your favorite sneakers lately?

five treasures of BuddhismThe brand I'm most interested in right now is Echo, a Danish comfort shoe brand. I'm wearing them today, and the leather has a wonderful texture, and they are just so comfortable. The attention to detail is so great that it is hard to believe they are sneakers.

five treasures of BuddhismThis is a classic model called "Soft Eight. . This is one of my favorite pairs of "Echo" shoes.

five treasures of BuddhismAnd this is "Biom C". The upper is made of Dyneema, a new material that combines thinness and strength. I bought these shoes at W-21, Echo's concept store in Amsterdam. This is a limited edition model of this store.

Nike is also an interesting company.

Are there any other brands besides Echo that interest you?

five treasures of BuddhismNike was and still is an interesting company to me. The technology that Nike is seriously developing is a dream come true, isn't it? It's something that a shoemaker like me couldn't create. I think it is also amazing that Nike continues to meet the expectations of its fans.

Incidentally, once I find something I like, I tend to wear it all the time. Last year, I fell in love with "Rosilan" and wore them every day in different colors.

five treasures of BuddhismJordans are one of my favorite sneakers. This is the low cut of the Air Jordan 11. I wore them a lot for a while.

five treasures of Buddhism. This is a self-made shoe. The laces offset on the outside are based on the "Air Footscape" by " Nike.

. I want to create a shoe store like Subway.

What do you want to do in the future as a shoemaker?

five treasures of BuddhismWe want to change the concept of custom-made shoes. Custom-made shoes have an image of being expensive, but I want to make it easier and more enjoyable for many people. In my mind, I have a vision of a shoe store that is like a "Subway" sandwich store. From a predetermined menu, you first select the upper, then the outsole, the laces, and so on, one by one, until you have a pair of shoes that you like. Wouldn't it be fun to have such a shoe shop?

Glenstock.

5-6-13 Shiba, Kawaguchi-shi, Saitama
Phone: 048-261-9241
Business hours: 8:00 - 20:00
Closed: Sunday
grenstock.org