An encounter between Oliver Goldsmith and Art Comes First: the essence of British design unraveled through the testimonies of three people.
Europe has a unique artistic philosophy, which has a great influence on design. Oliver Goldsmith, a leading British eyewear brand, and ART COMES FIRST, a creative group that embraces a punk mentality, are also brands with a strong sense of design. The collaboration between the two has now been realized. The result is a new interpretation of a long-established brand's classic eyewear and the birth of an updated masterpiece. The essence of UK design is hidden in these items.
His inspiration was the great jazzman Miles Davis .
Oliver Goldsmith, a long-established British eyewear brand, and Art Comes First, a creative collective based in London that creates products that crossover with various cultures. The items created through collaboration between the two are inspired by the great jazz player Miles Davis. The four models, which are somewhat smoky and austere, show the coexistence of the two brands' identities.
To delve deeper into the appeal of this item, we asked key personnel at three stores about its appeal. The philosophy behind British design . The three men gave us hints on how to get closer to the essence of British design.
SHOP_01 Continuer
Oliver Goldsmith pursues fashion .
Shigeyuki Nemoto / Continue Press
. He is the press representative for Continue, an eyewear store in Ebisu that opened in 2002 with the image of a salon for people who like various cultures and share a common sense of beauty.
We asked him to talk about the appeal of "Oliver Goldsmith," which he finds in this store among the various eyewear brands it carries.
How long has "Continue" been carrying "Oliver Goldsmith"?
rootThe brand was founded in 1926, and we stopped operating in the 1990s, but we restarted in 2005. We started carrying the brand at Continue at that time. We have been focusing on the brand since that time, and it is one of the main brands in the store.
What is the appeal of this brand?
root. It was a brand that ran through the 50s to the 70s, a time when European fashion was rapidly sharpening. New designs were created, and the brand was used on the cover of "Vogue" and was loved by highly sensitive celebrities since that time. Even though the brand went on hiatus, due to a culture that values its own history, " Oliver Goldsmith" has a list of celebrities, a vast archive of designs, and other materials from that time that are still firmly in place.
With that in place, I can catch the outline firmly, eliminating any ambiguity when restarting.
rootYes . When you start a new creation, you can restart it with a high degree of accuracy. The difference is huge.
Is there something special about British design that is not found in other countries?
rootWhile based on traditional aspects, there is an impression that a free sensibility is added to it. . There is a sense of originality in the use of color, or the use of thick celluloid frames. In contrast, I have the impression that American designs are more faithful to traditional styles. In that sense, I think Oliver Goldsmith is pursuing fashion. They are creating new shapes and making products that stimulate the senses.
Besides design, what else is unique about "Oliver Goldsmith"?
rootVarious overseas brands are now using Japanese factories for their manufacturing, and Oliver Goldsmith was one of the first to adopt Japanese manufacturing, focusing on the "Tsukuri (=quality)" aspect. However, "Oliver Goldsmith" was quick to adopt Japanese manufacturing, focusing on "Tsukuri (= quality)." By finishing edgy designs with Japanese quality, items with a higher degree of perfection can be created. Many people are attracted to these backgrounds and pick up these items.
What do you think is the appeal of the items in this collaboration with "Art Comes First"?
rootOliver Goldsmith and Art Comes First are both brands with an unshakeable axis, aren't they? I think that by having these brands work hand in hand, the eyewear has become more powerful. While respecting the bare bones of the base model, the size of the lenses has been boldly changed, and colors and logos have been added to update the item to make it more unique.
He said that the appeal is not biased to one side, but the best of both brands.
root. yes, it is. In fact, in our stores, we get a good response from fashion lovers as well as customers who have their own style. While paying respect to the history that "Oliver Goldsmith" has built up, "Art Comes First" also expresses their own sense of style. I think it is a very attractive collaboration.
SHOP_02 / UNITED ARROWS & SONS
I share Art Comes First's unblinking punk attitude.
Shinsaku Masuda / Buyer, Press, UNITED ARROWS & SONS
Buyer and press for the select store "United Arrows & Sons," which discovers culture born from the streets from a unique perspective and transmits it along with a traditional mindset.
He is friends with Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoo, two of the key figures in Art Comes First, and deeply understands the appeal of the brand.
UNITED ARROWS & SONS has been carrying "Art Comes First" since its debut season, right?
(historical) paddy administered directly by a rulerYes, we have selected items for every season since we started in the fall/winter of 2013 , and we are always looking for new items. Art Comes First is led by Sam Lambert and Shaka Madeau, who have been remaking vintage suits and making clothes since before they started the brand. Sam was originally a tailor on Savile Row, and Shaka did artwork and fashion styling.
What kind of creations did "Art Comes First" develop after it was launched as a brand?
(historical) paddy administered directly by a rulerTheir creations are based on British tailoring, mixed with the music, movies, and other cultures that have influenced them. . In England, it seems that musicians who play rock and punk often wear them.
What specific cultural influences do you see?
(historical) paddy administered directly by a rulerIt's really hard to say, because there is such a wide range. However, they call themselves "punk tailors," and they express the punk mentality through their designs. For example, for the fall/winter 2017 collection, they reflected Congolese youth culture of the 1950s. At that time, Congo had a very large percentage of its population in their 20s, and they were revolting against the regime of the time. . So they also drew inspiration from those political topics.
The keyword "punk" gives an extremely stoic impression.
(historical) paddy administered directly by a rulerTheir ideas and style are consistent. We share their attitude. Even though their stance is focused on spirituality, it is inevitably British. I think this is because they are sincere about what they believe in. I am attracted to the fact that they are firmly rooted in the culture and send out a message.
I see.
(historical) paddy administered directly by a rulerIt is rare to find a brand that doesn't claim to be a British brand, but yet has a strong sense of its essence. . I think that's why we were able to collaborate with various long-established British brands and Oliver Goldsmith.
What do you feel when you see the items from this collaboration?
(historical) paddy administered directly by a rulerActually, I had heard from them that they were going to collaborate with us for a long time. I had a strong impression of "Oliver Goldsmith" in terms of optical products such as "CONSUL," so when I heard that they were going to make sunglasses, I wondered, "What will happen? When I heard that they were going to make sunglasses, I wondered how it would turn out. But when I actually saw the items, I thought they were very nice because they had the "Art Comes First" style while respecting the relationship with fashion that "Oliver Goldsmith" has established in Europe.
What specific areas were you concerned about?
(historical) paddy administered directly by a ruler. The yellow gold sunglasses are a color that you don't see in inline products. However, on the other hand, it is also a coloring that is typical of "Art Comes First. Also, I feel that the addition of the parts on the temples and other details were carefully selected.
What kind of fashion do you think these sunglasses go with?
(historical) paddy administered directly by a rulerI think it would be cool to wear a suit and look crisp, but every model has its own character, so it would be stylish with a simple outfit. I think they have character.
SHOP_03 / THE CONRAN SHOP
. has the power to change your mood when you put it on.
Tokio Takizawa / MD Planning General Manager, The Conran Shop
. He is in charge of merchandising in Japan for The Conran Shop, an interior design boutique founded in England.
At first glance, it is difficult to find the point of contact between "interior design" and "eyewear. We asked the store how they view this connection.
It is unusual for an interior design store to carry eyewear, isn't it? What are your aims in doing so?
waterfallThe Conran Shop" has a desire to enrich the lives of our customers through design. In terms of delivering quality design, we believe that eyewear can be a part of that.
How long have you been dealing with "Oliver Goldsmith"?
waterfallIt's been about 5 years now. I myself use this brand of eyewear and have always wanted to carry it. . The form is classic, but the design is playful and sophisticated. That's what I find attractive. It has the power to change your mood when you put it on. . But it doesn't make me feel uncomfortable, and I like the fact that it feels natural and blends in with my face.
When you saw the items from this collaboration with "Art Comes First," did you have any particular feelings about them?
waterfallI think it's a great challenge to modify Oliver Goldsmith's completed designs. I sympathize with this attitude. While there are many conservative updates that just change the color, in this collaboration, the standard item was reborn as something new by drastically changing the size, adding more parts, and so on. I thought this was a very "Art Comes First" approach.
In addition to the traditional fans of "Oliver Goldsmith," it is likely to attract new fans.
waterfallYes, I think so. I think that the addition of items with this kind of edgy design to our lineup will be unexpected, and customers will be interested in them.
You will be exhibiting illustrations by Takumi Tsuda, an illustrator, at the same time at the store, right?
waterfallWhen I visited "Art Comes First" on Instagram, your illustrations caught my eye. I thought that if we could offer art along with the interior design, it would be more relevant to the interior and easier to deliver to our customers.
The connection between "Art Comes First" and a Japanese illustrator was unexpected.
waterfallWe were surprised too. He is based in Fukuoka, and his delicate depiction is very appealing, isn't it? He depicts a view of the world that cannot be expressed in photographs. That is what makes it unique. We asked him to create a new illustration for this project.
It is a unique idea to be able to enjoy this item as art as well.
waterfallYes, it does. Just as wearing sunglasses increases the appeal of fashion, displaying a work of art in a room increases the completeness of the interior. In this sense, art and sunglasses may be similar. I would be happy if people who do not usually wear eyewear can get to know the world of both brands through this work.
Eyewear that symbolizes the British identity.
. Deepening our understanding of tradition and using it as a starting point to create something new. This collaboration showed us such a spirit. The United Kingdom is a country that is constantly introducing new culture and attracting the attention of people from all over the world. What Oliver Goldsmith and Art Comes First, both based in the United Kingdom, have in common is a sincere focus on the direction of their goals and objectives. This is why they are able to create a thick and flexible axis, absorb a variety of things, and remain unshakeable at the core of their business. Finally, we would like to introduce all the models of the collaboration items by the two companies.
OLIVER GOLDSMITH × ART COMES FIRST〉 MISTINGUETT ¥37,000+TAX
Among Oliver Goldsmith's many models, the "MISTINGUETT" is characterized by its massive design. The MISTINGUETT has been updated with a 925 silver logo part with "ART FIRST" written on the temples, making it a more powerful item.
OLIVER GOLDSMITH × ART COMES FIRST〉CHARLES 53S ¥43,000+TAX
This model was named "CHARLES" after Charles Oliver Goldsmith, the second generation of the brand, who himself was a favorite of the brand. The lens diameter, which was originally 49mm, has been greatly changed to 53mm, and a bold design change has been made to this model. The eye-catching yellow gold frames and gray-colored lenses with silver mirrors are also distinctive features.
OLIVER GOLDSMITH × ART COMES FIRST〉HEP ¥35,000+TAX
HEP" was worn by Audrey Hepburn in the movie "Charade. As with the previously introduced "Miss Tinget," the temples are decorated with original "Art Comes First" parts, emphasizing the sharp and elegant impression. The clear lenses are silver mirrored, which is also noteworthy.
OLIVER GOLDSMITH × ART COMES FIRST〉COLT ¥40,000+TAX
COLT" will be on sale at "Continue", "United Arrows & Sons", and "The Conran Shop" from July 20 (Fri.). The front bar and temples are characterized by a twisted design, giving the wearer a deep look. The smoky atmosphere with mirrored lenses is also attractive.
These are gems of eyewear created by two brands with their own unique perspectives. . If you hold them in your hands, you will be able to feel the identity of the country of England. If you are interested in these products, we recommend that you visit the store as soon as possible.
Address: CALM Ebisu 1F, 2-9-2 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Open: 12:00 - 21:00 (closed on Wednesdays)
Phone: 03-3792-8978
Instagram :@continuer_ebisu www.continuer.jp/
United Arrows & Sons
Address: United Arrows Harajuku Main Store B1-1F, 3-28-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Open: 12:00 - 20:00 (Sat., Sun., holidays 11:00 - 20:00)
Phone: 03-5413-5102
Instagram:@unitedarrowsandsons
The Conran Shop Shinjuku Main Store
Address: Shinjuku Park Tower 3 and 4F, 3-7-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Open: 11:00-19:00 (Closed on Wednesdays *Open if Wednesday is a national holiday)
Phone: 03-5322-6600
Instagram:@theconranshop.japan