Alpha Industries" was established in 1959 and is known as a military wear brand for the U.S. military. Many brands and stores have placed special orders with Alpha Industries, and the appeal of these items is their "authenticity. Military wear has become an indispensable element of fashion style, but what is the appeal of the items themselves? We asked Mr. Fujihara Yutaka of the Harajuku store "Berberzine," who is well versed in the field of vintage clothing, about the fascination of military items, including rare, personal military items that fans of military wear are drooling over.
He is the director of "Berberzine," a famous vintage store that has existed since the heyday of vintage clothing. He is also known as one of the best vintage masters in the industry, and is the author of HOUYHNHNM's regular series project, "Vintage SummitHe has also appeared in the book. He is more of a vintage clothing collector than an actual wearer.
A wide variety of designs from a fashion perspective.
As an introduction to this talk, I would like to ask why men are attracted to the military and what its appeal is. I would like to start with such a big question (laughs).
Fujiwara:The main reasons for this are: the recognition of vintage clothing as a genre of fashion alongside denim, sweatshirts, sneakers, etc., and the abundance of designs when viewed from this perspective.
Military pants (Mr. Fujiwara's personal effects)
This is an unusual military pant that is thinner than the model usually circulated in the market. It is unusual in that different materials are used for the body and pockets, making it two-tone.
Probably there were reasons such as cost reduction.
I also think it is important to note the paper tag attached, which is often seen on deadstocks" (Fujiwara).
Some designers also collect military items as inspiration for their designs.
Fujiwara:Yes, even recently, I have been discovering new discoveries in terms of parts used and sewing methods from a manufacturing perspective as well. The other thing is the quality. For example, it is amazing that the quality of old clothes from the 1940s and 1950s is maintained. This is because of the high quality of the sewing and parts, and also because the government is paying for it.
M-65 (Mr. Fujiwara's personal possession)
I found this M-65 three years ago in the U.S. in a dead stock condition and bought it. There are many M-65s from the 1980s, but the tiger camo pattern on this 1970s model is particularly rare. Moreover, the lining has a different camo pattern design," says Fujiwara.
L-2 jacket worn by Mr. Fujiwara (Mr. Fujiwara's personal possession)
This outer garment is a test sample L-2 jacket in the preliminary stages of being issued to the military. Since there are almost no decorations on this jacket, we can expect it to have been a base of a finished body. In vintage clothing, we often make inferences based on such verifications," says Fujiwara.
I see. I think that military vintage clothing is all over the map, but I don't think you can easily afford it unless you have the knowledge and experience.
Fujiwara:Maybe it is. If you buy it properly at a store, there is no problem, but it is difficult to tell the difference, so you may not be able to understand the value. If you are familiar with military clothing, you can tell the age just by looking at the color of the fabric. The color of the same olive fabric can be strictly different depending on the company.
Assault vest (Mr. Fujiwara's personal possession)
This is another one that I found buried in the vintage pile, and when I saw the way it came out, I knew it had a special vibe to it. Unusually, this pocket is designed to hold a shovel. (Mr. Fujiwara)
Helmet bag (personal property of Mr. Fujiwara)
This is an early type of helmet bag with no external pockets and a cotton handle. It was probably made in the 1960s. It's just the right size for a small package," says Fujiwara.
Is there a strong friendship among collectors as well as a place to share information?
Fujiwara:For example, Mr. Sato of "Kamikaze" in Omotesando is also well known in the military world, and we often discuss military affairs. Also, Mitsuhiro Aota, who published the book "FULL GEAR," is a great guy.
FULL GEAR" was published at your own expense, wasn't it? It would not be an exaggeration to say that the reasons for men's fascination with the military are concentrated in this one book.
Fujiwara:Yes, I think this book is the end point in my pursuit of military affairs. I think this book is the final destination we reached in our pursuit of the military. We have a book in our store that our staff read until it was torn to shreds, and it is a valuable permanent collection for the apparel industry as a whole. Mr. Aota is truly beyond the realm of a nerd; he is something else (laughs). When you think about it, men like history, so it must be interesting to have different details from one era to the next, and to be able to understand the process as a chronological table, too.
Military with a light, contemporary design.
What is your impression of the Alpha Industries brand from your experience of observing military vintage clothing?
Fujiwara:The brand's background is so reliable that it is even officially supplied to the U.S. military, and yet it is amazing that it can be incorporated into fashion. I was surprised by the modernized design of the products and the revolutionary lightness that can be seen when you actually touch and wear them.
I don't care if it is the latest military equipment, vintage equipment is still heavy.
Fujiwara:: Yes, that's right. And while they are firmly capturing the hearts of men, they are also penetrating women's fashion these days. I think that women are wearing far more jackets than men on the streets these days, and oversized jackets are the norm nowadays, regardless of gender. In this respect, I think the Alpha Industries silhouette is a good fit.
It is true that many women nowadays wear MA-1s.
Fujiwara:The other interesting aspect is that it also has a function as a design, which is different from functional beauty. For example, the cigar pocket on the left sleeve of this jacket is a good example, as I have yet to see anyone actually using it today (laughs).
The red ribbon is also very symbolic.
Fujiwara:The design also shows the identity of the brand. It's also a design accent. Vintage products are too serious, so their demand and value are limited to a certain group of people. I think the appeal of "Alpha Industries" is that you can find products that are easy to wear for young people today, both as a gateway to a broader understanding of the military and as contemporary fashion.
Lastly, what kind of image do you have of not only vintage but also current military wear?
Fujiwara:For example, recently, I have been interested in the tactical lines of outdoor brands. There are brands that have not officially announced their lines, but I think they are the best in terms of functionality and comfort of wear, making full use of the latest technology available today. I am also looking forward to seeing the new value that will be found in these items when they are released by the military and become deadstock or vintage in the years to come.
N-3B TIGHT (Solid) ¥24,800+tax / WOOD LAND CAMO ¥27,500+tax
I like the choice of non-origin color variations such as beige, gray, and camouflage." It's convenient that the fur can be removed to suit your taste. I don't wear it, so I cut it off. The other thing is that it is by far the lightest. It makes women happy, too," says Fujiwara.
HOODED RIB JACKET ¥18,500+TAX
I think it's very current that you can't tell which model is being rearranged at first glance. The hood is detachable, and I think the stand collar, which is likely to be popular this season, is also a key point. The short length is also modern.
