Vintage Summit Spin-off 2: What kind of Converse do Vintage Summit enthusiasts want to wear now?
When it comes to footwear for vintage clothing lovers, "Converse" has always been at the top of the list. Everyone must have at least one pair of the iconic models such as the All Star and Jack Purcell in their shoe boxes, right? How do the four members of Vintage Summit, who know everything there is to know about vintage clothing, really feel about the Converse staple? In this second installment of our spin-off project, we take a look at "Converse. From our large collection, the members carefully selected three pairs of "Converse" that they would like to wear now, and brought them in one at a time. From nostalgic pairs to unusual and maniacal models, please enjoy this in-depth talk session that only Vintage Summit can provide.
NEXUSVII. designer, born in 1977, launched NEXUSVII. in 2001 in New York. In addition to original items, he regularly holds vintage events at his head store "V.E.L." in Sendagaya, Tokyo. He has the largest vintage archive in the industry.
Takashi Abe (middle left)
Staff member of BEAMS Online Shop, born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer for many years, and is an expert in handling many articles related to vintage clothing. Currently, he is in charge of writing for the company's website. He is also known as a collector of vintage bandanas.
Michihiko Kurihara (middle right)
Vintage buyer. born in 1977. After working at the famous store "Lost Hills", he started his career as a freelance vintage buyer in 2011. He is trusted not only by vintage clothing stores but also by select stores. On November 15, he will open "Mr. Clean," a long-awaited store for vintage fans in Yokohama.
Fujihara Yutaka (right)
Born in 1977, he is the director of Ber Ber Jin®. Known as one of the best vintage masters in the industry, he boasts an impressive collection of denim, especially pants and jackets. He is also involved in collaborations and projects with brands, making use of his outstanding knowledge of vintage.
Lecture 1: Tomohiro Konno
Among the many variations of the All Star, we have selected models with interesting colors and materials.
What does Converse mean to you, Konno-san?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I remember playing basketball in the fifth grade with a pair of raw-colored "All-Stars," but I didn't consciously start wearing them until I studied abroad in high school, when I returned to Japan with a pair of black "All-Stars" that I had worn down. I started going to "Garage Sale" (a vintage store in Tsudanuma), and the older students at the time were wearing vintage "Converse" sneakers such as "Chuck Taylors," so I think that had a big influence on me. Converse was also the first sneaker brand I collaborated with after launching the brand. In the past few years, I have probably had more opportunities to wear current models, especially "Converse Addict," rather than vintage sneakers.
Konno's Pick up_01
'77 ARMY CONVERSE GYMNASIUM SHOES
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The first pair is the US Army's "Gymnasium Shoes," also known by the nickname "Army Converse. As I recall, the US Army started issuing these shoes in 1977, and they were used continuously until the 1980s. I got them when there was still a "Lost Hills" in Tsudanuma, and that was the first time I learned that Converse made military trainers.
section (of an orange, etc.)There are other brands besides "Converse," aren't there? What exactly are the differences between them?
chestnut fieldThe most obvious pattern is here (pointing to the toe bumper) and the pattern on the outsole. The most obvious pattern is the one here (pointing to the toe bumper), and the pattern on the outsole.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The minimalist design of these shoes, which are different from the ready-to-wear products, is irreplaceable, and I find myself pulling them out several times a year. These days, it's getting harder and harder to find a better size made by Converse.
Fujiwara:That's right. I haven't seen any products made by Converse in the past few years.
section (of an orange, etc.)Is it true to size?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)As I recall, US 9.5 was a bit large but in good shape.
chestnut fieldI've always wondered why US 5.5, 6.5, 7.5, and 9.5 are concentrated in [Converse], and they are almost always narrow-wise. Regular-wise is rarely seen.
Fujiwara:I've only seen US 10.5s used once, but you certainly don't see many larger sizes out there.
chestnut fieldRight. On the other hand, the other two brands may be quite a bit larger, but they almost always only come in regular-wise, so perhaps they were ordering from different suppliers depending on size and wize.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)By the way, Abe, didn't you have a pair of "Army Converse" in a very unusual coloring before?
section (of an orange, etc.)That was probably post-dyeing.
chestnut fieldProbably so. I saw a lot of tanning stores dyeing afterwards for a while because there were many tanned individuals.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, no amount of washing will remove those sunburn marks.
section (of an orange, etc.)I still want them again after seeing them like this for the first time in a while. If it's "PF Flyer" and "Converse," is "Converse" more expensive even for people of the same age?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I believe it was about $9800 when they were offering a large number of them in "Lost Hills" 20+ years ago.
chestnut fieldThat's right. A few years later, "Number 44" (a select store that used to be in Harajuku) probably bought them in Europe, and I realized that they were still around. Nowadays, a dead stock men's size would cost around 40,000 yen.
Konno's Pick up_02
90's ALL STAR OX HEMP
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Next up is the All Star Hemp. What makes this model so attractive is the laces. They were probably made just for this model.' I got the then-current model in the late 90's in a timely manner, and I believe there were several color variants.
chestnut fieldIn addition to this raw color, I think they were also available in moss green and black. The barcode is printed on the back of the shoe tongue, so it must be from the last period of US-made.
section (of an orange, etc.)I see.' Will we get barcode notations at the end of the 90s?
chestnut fieldI'm not sure what year the barcode notation was added, but it is the most obvious detail that identifies the last period of US-made products.
section (of an orange, etc.)You know everything, really. You must be an advisor by now (laughs). How long have you been producing American-made products?
Fujiwara:As I recall, the country of production was moved outside the U.S. in 2002 or so.
chestnut fieldYes, I would guess at least since the "All Star 2000" model was rolled out in 2000 as a US-made model.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)At the time this model was released, Down on the Corner in Harajuku and other foreign brands like Manastash were also pushing hemp.
section (of an orange, etc.)There it is.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I guess it was a trend like the eco-boom. Besides "Converse," there were many hemp models released by other sneaker brands such as "Adidas. Well, this is a bit of a side note, but All Star sneakers from that time had an "ALL STAR" tag sewn on the tongue, and I personally hated that (laughs).
chestnut fieldIt is true that from someone who came in from vintage, it may be a detail that you don't need.
section (of an orange, etc.)How much would you put on it if you were to serve it in a restaurant now?
Fujiwara:If it's dead stock, it's like $19,800. Although, well, I don't think it will show up.
Konno's Pick up_03
90's ALL STAR OX MULTI COLOR
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The third pair is a pair of multi-paneled [All-Stars] that I bought at "Berberzine" a while back.' They are from around the late 90s.
section (of an orange, etc.)I sometimes see these 3-tone types like Christmas colors, but I wonder if they have an original source.
Fujiwara:The original was released in the '80s and could be considered a reissue.
section (of an orange, etc.)There were other color variants, right?
Fujiwara:Yes (while checking out the "BOON EXTRA Permanent Standard Converse"). There are several other patterns, like green x red x purple.
section (of an orange, etc.)But the branding on the insole is slightly different from the monochromatic "All Star" of the same age, isn't it?
chestnut fieldIt is possible that the three tones were a different line, or perhaps a different collection than the regular inline.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I was actually going to take it down this summer, but I missed the timing.
chestnut fieldIt is true that dead stocks are hard to unload. Unless you have a very good chance, there is no chance to get them anymore.
section (of an orange, etc.)Is Mr. Kuri going to unload any more dead stock?
chestnut fieldThat's right.' There are quite a few things that I got as dead stock in the 90s that I ended up not wearing as they were.
section (of an orange, etc.)That's right. But I never thought that [Converse] would soar so high. The other day, a dead stock of "All Star Trainers" (a training model with navy painted toecaps and a built-in 1 kg weight) from the not-so-old '70s was on eBay, and it ended up at $1300 or so (laughs). Isn't that amazing?
Fujiwara:That's bad (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)How did I get that price?
chestnut fieldProbably Thai. The "All Star Trainers" are also outstandingly popular in Thailand.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I had them before, but they were too heavy and made my shin hurt (laughs). I naturally stopped wearing them and gave them away.
Fujiwara:(laughs). I have a pair myself, but after a day of standing in the store wearing them, my muscles were already sore before the store closed (laughs).
