Lecture 4: Takashi Abe
I actually use about 20 bandanas."
section (of an orange, etc.): So, the last one is the one I'm interested in. What should we call these models? In Japan, they are often called salvage parkas or snow parkas, but in America they are called gunner's smock jackets.
chestnut fieldYes, I think so.
Fujiwara:I know some of these white types are dyed.
section (of an orange, etc.)There's: you know, there's. Yellow, red, green, and so on.
chestnut fieldI heard that they are color-coded according to the duties of the wearer, just like this one.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm talking about:. What color is induction and so on. I don't know the details.
section (of an orange, etc.)I'd like to have that colored one, too, but we don't have any at all.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I don't think so. But aren't you afraid of colored products? Because you don't know if it is original or dyed afterwards. For example, the other day I saw this yellow color in Nagoya, but I didn't buy it because I didn't know if it was original or not.
section (of an orange, etc.)I know, right?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I don't mind the white: I can tell that it's original.
section (of an orange, etc.): I bought the denim over here with the hood cut off, but I'm not sure if I should have the hood made out of a US Navy laundry bag.
Fujiwara:I think it's better to leave it as it is.
section (of an orange, etc.)Then I'll wear it as it is (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Denim: You don't see denim these days.
section (of an orange, etc.)I've been looking for a complete set for a long time, but I can't find any at all. I found this one at an auction in the U.S. I had wanted one for a long time, so I bought it even though it was damaged and the hood was cut off. But when I showed it to Miyacchi (OKIDOKI staff) and Oichan (OKIDOKI repair staff), they said, "I think this damage is caused by chemicals, so it will tear more and more..." I was quite shocked. I was quite shocked, but I had wanted one for a long time, so I decided to reopen it and wear it as much as I could. It's okay though, because it was pretty cheap.
Fujiwara:: It hasn't been coming into our house at all lately.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I saw one at a vintage clothing store in Koenji in the low 100,000s a long time ago, but I haven't seen one for a while since then.
section (of an orange, etc.): I found a complete size XL at a thrift store in Shibuya last year, I think it was 250,000.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)XL. I think there are fewer people looking for it than before, though, so it might not be that expensive if you can find it.
section (of an orange, etc.): Oh, by the way, didn't Chestnut say that this type of cover without a front opening might be different from a front opening?
chestnut fieldI can't say for sure because it's just a speculation, but there was a dealer in the U.S. who said that the customized jackets that Abe-san is bringing are for the lab (research institute), so I'm wondering if it might be possible.
section (of an orange, etc.)By the way, the person who has this white custom is calledMr. CleanI bought it at a conscientious store called "Mr." (laughs). So, do you think I should leave the hood on the denim?
Fujiwara:I think it's definitely better to leave it as it is.
section (of an orange, etc.)Next up, denim coveralls from Carhartt.
Fujiwara:It's a model of the Great War. Oh, wow. I haven't seen it in a long time!
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): The color is also quite dark! These are the coveralls you were talking about before, to remove the pockets or not, right?
section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, that's right. It originally had two pockets, but the owner at the time had added another pocket by himself, and he was not sure whether to take it off or not. In the end, he removed it himself, but you can't tell at a glance, can you?
Fujiwara:No, I have no idea. Did you apply steam?
section (of an orange, etc.): No, I just rubbed the stitches a little with water.
Fujiwara:: If you apply steam, it will be more beautiful.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)(while adjusting the coveralls to his body) Is this Abe's size (laughs)?
Fujiwara:No, I think it's my size (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I've also been looking for the Lee and Carhartt two-pocketed, alternating World War II models, but I can't seem to find any in good condition.
section (of an orange, etc.)I guess so. I knew I wanted to have this unique pocket design of the Great War, which is attached to the upper left and lower right sides, someday, so I guess I was lucky to get it at a low price. It's impossible to have pockets at this angle if you think about it in a normal way (laughs).
chestnut field: I guess that's why the owner at that time added the pockets himself (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm sure you know how I feel (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)Why are they so different from each other?
Fujiwara:I think Carhartt and Lee tried to keep one breast pocket and one hip pocket when they had to reduce the number of pockets because of the World War. However, I think they eliminated the breast pocket because it was too inconvenient to use, and decided to keep two hip pockets. Other brands have two hip pockets, don't they?
chestnut field: If more people needed a pocket on the lower left side, I'm sure we could find a remake like this (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think it was unpopular (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)Well, that's why this design is so interesting. That's why I introduced coveralls last time, but I still think they are interesting. Of course, I like jean jackets, too, so I wear them, but I often wear them with other people, so in that sense, I think coveralls are more fresh.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Sweatshirts are next?
section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, not so rare, but two pieces that are a little bit unusual. They are both plain, but both turtleneck and big size V.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Turtlenecks are rare.
section (of an orange, etc.)I don't have a lot of these. It may be handmade, but I bought it because the color was navy, which I like, and I liked this size that I can wear loosely.
Fujiwara:: Do you wear it sometimes?
section (of an orange, etc.): I wear it in the fall and winter. I sometimes wear it simply on its own, and I often wore it layered with a white and navy blue striped turtleneck under this sweatshirt.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Can I look at the inside of the sweatshirt for a second?
section (of an orange, etc.)Please come in.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)(Looking at the inside stitches) The hem is stitched up, but all the other stitches are the same, so I think it is original.
section (of an orange, etc.): Really? I assumed it was handmade, so I'm kind of happy (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think it's probably original. Also, I like the burnt look that only navy can give. Dye nowadays is processed in such a way that it is hard to fade, so it's hard to get this atmosphere.
chestnut fieldI also found a white turtleneck in Sapporo the other day and was quite interested in it, but decided not to buy it after much hesitation.
Fujiwara:: Both V's over here, they are big!
section (of an orange, etc.)It's huge, isn't it? American people usually dry their sweatshirts in a dryer, so many sweatshirts are wide but short in length, but this one is miraculously not only wide but also long. I measured the length of this sweatshirt once and it was 74cm long.
Fujiwara:The name of the game is "NAGA"!
section (of an orange, etc.): It may not be that unusual in terms of detail, but this size is seldom seen.
Fujiwara:: Well, no, it's not this big.
section (of an orange, etc.)I don't have any. I like sweatshirts, so I always check them out when I go to vintage clothing stores, but when it comes to vintage sweatshirts, I tend to look for the large size first. No matter how cool the print is, it doesn't matter if I can't wear it. That's why I was so happy when I found this sweatshirt. It was a bit more expensive than a regular double-V, but you can't find one in this size, so I bought it.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This sweatshirt is also good because it has freedom sleeves and double V's. I don't think there are any freedom sleeves that have double V's. The freedom sleeve is famous for the Haynes windshield, but I don't think there is a double V.
chestnut fieldI know that's without V, right?
section (of an orange, etc.)I know there's a "Freedom" in both V's at "Wilson". This one doesn't have a tag on it, so I don't know what brand it is. ...You don't think it's a replica, do you?
Fujiwara:: Oh no, I don't think that's ever going to happen (laughs).
chestnut fieldIf this were a replica, it would be a great achievement.
section (of an orange, etc.)I know, right, Riki Chosyu (laughs)?
chestnut fieldI have never imitated Riki Choshu (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)The last one is the promised bandana (laughs).
chestnut fieldI expected it to happen (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.): This time I brought a campaign bandana for the U.S. presidential election.
Fujiwara:: Well, that's great....
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)When are you going to make a book about bandanas (laughs)?
section (of an orange, etc.)I guess it depends on Mr. Komuta (Editor-in-Chief of HOUYHNHNM) (laughs).
Fujiwara:I don't think bandanas are bulky, but the amount you have seems to take up quite a bit of space.
section (of an orange, etc.): No, it doesn't take up much space, surprisingly. Just about two racks about 150 cm wide. It's a little hard to get across if I explain it with my mouth, so please check the details in BEAMS AT HOME 3 (Takarajima-sha), which is scheduled to be released on November 26 (laughs).
Fujiwara:I've got about 2,000 pieces?
section (of an orange, etc.)No, I think it's probably about 1,500. I did a proper count a few years ago, and there were over 1300 at that time, and I've been buying since then, so I think that's about it.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): 1,500 pieces....
section (of an orange, etc.)I have blue and red star patterns, so I thought I'd frame them and display them.
chestnut field(laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm surprised you were able to get one pair. Did you buy them separately?
section (of an orange, etc.): yes. First you find the blue base, then the red base.
Fujiwara:How much does it cost, by the way?
section (of an orange, etc.)I'll do it in its own way (laughs).
Fujiwara:: (laughs). Even if you find them in the U.S., it is difficult to buy them because you don't know the market price.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)By the way, when did this happen?
section (of an orange, etc.)I think all the ones you are bringing today are from 1888. Or earlier.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)1888!
section (of an orange, etc.)It was created as a campaign for the U.S. presidential election in 1888. Benjamin Harrison, a Republican, was the presidential candidate, and Levi Morton, also a Republican, was the vice presidential candidate. The bandanas for the presidential election are basically the names of the candidates, so it is easy to identify the age of the candidates. Well, we don't have that many bandanas to begin with (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): 1800's is so bad.... Certainly the fabric feel and coloring are totally different.
Fujiwara:I'm wondering: just like regular vintage bandanas, are the blue and navy ones more expensive than the red ones?
section (of an orange, etc.)The blue is the most popular color, though I don't think there is much of a difference at this time. However, there is a famous bandana of the Railroad Brotherhood in the U.S., and I don't see the red one as much as the navy one. I'm thinking of framing these two different colors separately someday. But I'm a bit worried about the size, because they are slightly different, as if they are shrinking (laughs).
chestnut fieldI think it would be more useful to wrap a lunch box (laughs). I would love it if you have more simmered dishes (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)I have a bandana for my lunch box, so I won't wrap it with that (laughs). Even if I don't have one, I won't wrap it (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think the tricolor over here is cute, too.
section (of an orange, etc.)It's a good one. This one says "BANNER HANDKERCHIEF" on the edge, so it might have been used as a banner. There are many different types of bandanas for the same campaign, so I'm sure there are some designs you haven't seen yet. I have another design from the same 1888 campaign at home, though I didn't bring it with me today.
Fujiwara:By the way, do you actually use these bandanas?
section (of an orange, etc.)I don't think so (laughs). I don't even put bandanas of this age through water because they might melt and disappear (laughs). And it would be a bit of a mess if I used them around here.... I usually rotate between dotted and tricolor marine patterns. I don't have 20 pieces that I use, so in extreme cases, that might mean I haven't used 1,480 pieces (laughs).
Fujiwara:By the way, where do you buy it?
section (of an orange, etc.)I can't go into too much detail (laughs). Well, but I am very much indebted to you, Mr. Chestnut (laughs). Of course, I always check bandanas at every store, but I often buy from "Santa Monica Omotesando," "Long Beach," and "Mecha" in Koenji. Also, I don't want to tell you too much, but I recommend "Gold School," which was opened by former Santa Monica employee Kawabe-kun, because it is quite inexpensive.
chestnut fieldI told you, didn't I?
section (of an orange, etc.)I'll have to introduce you to a good restaurant (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think vintage clothing is interesting after all.
section (of an orange, etc.): I think it's about time we all went around to the thrift stores.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Let's ask Komuta-kun to let us do a cannonball tour of vintage clothing stores around the country (laughs).
Fujiwara:I would love to go there.
chestnut fieldI remember that this crap is the same as the last time I saw it (laughs).
