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FEATURE|Vintage Summit 4: That Vintage Summit 4 is the first gathering of vintage clothing enthusiasts in a year!

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Lecture 2: Fujihara Yutaka
Konno-san, I won't give up this L-2 test sample (laughs)."

section (of an orange, etc.)Next, Yutaka, please.

Fujiwara:: Yes. First is a short-sleeved shirt with an Italian collar.

section (of an orange, etc.)I love this one. Is that the same brand you are wearing today?

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Fujiwara:The one I'm wearing today is another brand, but both of the items I brought are made by TOWN CRAFT.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)What's the latest you've bought?

Fujiwara:: Yes, I do. I had seen them in the past, but recently I have not seen them at all.... Then I happened to see it at a certain used clothing store. But it was in the low 30,000s, so I gave up.... Right after that, I found this red stripe at another used clothing store. And for 7,800 yen. So I bought it immediately.

section (of an orange, etc.): When did you buy the blue one?

Fujiwara:I was wearing this dress when Mr. Oishi of "Ber Ber Jin Shizuoka Store" came to our store. It was obviously not the right size, so I immediately ordered him to take it off and gave it to me (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): It's a total cutthroat (laughs). Are there any other colors?

Fujiwara:I think there is also an engine and a green one.

section (of an orange, etc.)What age is it?

Fujiwara:I think it is probably the '60s.

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section (of an orange, etc.)The mountain poke on the left chest is also nice. Isn't Kinji-san (Kinji Teramoto, president of Thirty-Five Summers) trying to make another "Big Yank" original based on this (laughs)? signature modelThe second part of the

Fujiwara:: No, actually, I do (laughs). I'm going to have this design made (laughs).

chestnut field: I'm sure there was a patent on the mountain poke, and after the patent expired, I wonder if they came up with this design.

Fujiwara:I think it might be true.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This is not a cigar pocket (a special pocket with a gusset), and it could have been used because it's a different shape.

chestnut fieldI think you're right: it may indeed be so.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): I tried to collect vintage mountain poke other than Big Yank a long time ago, but I never got around to it. There were some other brands, but I think they were all stripes. And I don't think I ever saw any plain ones.

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Fujiwara:: Heh - I see.

section (of an orange, etc.)Do you also like the fact that it's an Italian collar?

Fujiwara:I always wear a necklace from "Gorlos. I always wear a necklace from "Gorlos," and with this collar, I can see a glimpse of the necklace, which is nice (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Italian collars were popular in the '50s. There were some manufacturers who made a lot of Italian collar bowling shirts, and they were very popular. This collar is not convenient for taking up fabric. Maybe that's why they were so expensive.

Fujiwara:: I see. Shirts in this area are calm now, so if you can find one now, I think it would be cheap. But since they are not popular, there are only a few stores that carry them...

chestnut field: Also, shirts made of 100% cotton material may be difficult to find because the fabric is weak and has a short lifespan.

Fujiwara:I'm sure. Maybe we'll be lucky to find one.

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section (of an orange, etc.)What's next?

Fujiwara:: It's a paint thing.

section (of an orange, etc.)The jacket and cutoffs are both Levi's.

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Fujiwara:Yes: Yes.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Lee: Come to think of it, you haven't been wearing Lee lately, have you? Do you still have a lot of stuff?

Fujiwara:Of course, I still like them, but for adult reasons, I don't wear them these days (laughs). (Laughs.) Because of this, I decided to organize a bit, and I gave away some of my "Lee" items.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I was wondering: did you sell those square pokes (Lee coveralls from the '30s and earlier with their distinctive angled pocket design)?

Fujiwara:No: No, I'm still leaving that one.

section (of an orange, etc.)By the way, how good are the painted ones (laughs)?

Fujiwara:I like denim in good condition, of course, but lately I've been interested in painted denim. The word "paint" is used to describe a wide variety of paints, and there are not many paints that are in good condition.

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chestnut field: Maybe you don't accumulate paint stuff in the "Berberzine" warehouse, do you?

Fujiwara:No, I don't. (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)I thought: didn't you have a blog the other day looking for someone with experience in a paint shop to join your staff (laughs)?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think there might be some packing marked "for paint" in the stock packing (cardboard boxes).

Fujiwara:We don't recruit, and we don't stock (laughs). It was a long time ago, and I asked a friend of mine who works in a paint shop if he could keep my denim and wear it to work. He said, "No, no, no, of course you will get paint on them, but the paint won't fly off in a good atmosphere, it will just get dirty. He said that unless you are at the level of a Sunday carpenter, it is impossible for the paint to come off in a beautiful atmosphere.

chestnut field: In the first place, if you are a person with a real job, you would wear painters' pants with coveralls. Americans usually paint the walls of their rooms, so if you are one of those people, maybe the paint will fly off nicely.

section (of an orange, etc.): Do you have any other paint stuff?

Fujiwara:I've also given some away, so these are the only two denim pieces I have.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think I saw Yu in a different paint job a while back?

Fujiwara:I was taken off (laughs).

chestnut fieldI've always been in this pattern (laughs).

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section (of an orange, etc.)I knew it: is it because this jacket is a separate one?

Fujiwara:Yes, I think so.

chestnut fieldI think it's a way of saying, "Of course," (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)I remember you calling these separates "thongs," right, Yutaka?

Fujiwara:: Well, in a manner of speaking, yes (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): So how many thongs do you have now, thongs (laughs)?

chestnut fieldWealthy thongs (laughs).

Fujiwara:I've got five cards now (laughs). Four firsts and one second.

chestnut fieldI'm impressed that you have five pieces of thongs (laughs).

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Fujiwara:Next is the L-2 series.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Oh no, this brown is a bad idea.

Fujiwara:: I don't get this one. The very first "L-2" I bought was this one, but I saw it at a thrift store a long time ago. It had no parts on it at all, the color was dark brown, and there was no test sample tag on it... But looking at the fabric, zips, etc., I thought it was clearly military, so I asked an enthusiast about it and he said he was sure it was a test sample, so I bought it. The person at the store where I bought it didn't seem to understand either, so I was able to buy it at a much lower price.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I sometimes see Yu wearing this, but he always wears it with the sleeves rolled up, so every time I see him, I tell him to stop because the ribs are getting stretched. I assume he's going to give it to me on his own (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.): Do you like "L-2" originally?

Fujiwara:Yes, I don't really like voluminous silhouettes like the "MA-1" and they don't suit me. The "L-2" series is clean and sleek, and I like it.

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section (of an orange, etc.): Are there any test samples other than brown?

Fujiwara:I've been told not to say too much by the enthusiasts, but it seems that they are basically brownish.

section (of an orange, etc.): Why can't I just say it?

Fujiwara:I think it's a good idea to have a good reputation.

section (of an orange, etc.)I see.

Fujiwara:I like this dark brown especially, though I never like it because it is a test sample.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I was told by a senior colleague of mine of a certain brand that I recently worked with that it is a ceremonial jacket. A senior colleague of mine from a brand I recently worked with told me that it is a ceremonial jacket for pilots to attend a ceremony. It has no epaulettes, no padding, and a hem flap. The date is newer than this.

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Fujiwara:The "L-2" was not manufactured until '49, but it is said to have been around since '48, and my test sample is close to the ribs used on the "G-1," and also in terms of the two-tiered ribs, it is very likely that it is a test sample from the '40s. My test sample is close to the ribs used on the "G-1" and the two-tiered ribs make it more likely to be a sample from the '40s.

section (of an orange, etc.)How much did you pay for it?

Fujiwara:: It was about 9 years ago, but it was quite inexpensive.

section (of an orange, etc.)How much: How much would it cost if it were sold in a store right now?

Fujiwara:I don't think it will be in the stores first. Enthusiasts say it would be over a million dollars.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)But Yutaka wore the sleeves rolled up, and the ribs got stretched, so that's a negative assessment (laughs).

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section (of an orange, etc.): Is there a model in the "L-2" series that you are looking for right now?

Fujiwara:I've been looking for an "L-2A" for a while now, but when I find one and try it on, it looks like a dokajan. I think it's a size problem, but I just can't give up. And if I could, I'd still like to get the "L-2A" from [SUPERIOR TOGS].

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Chestnut: Hey, didn't I have a chestnut?

chestnut field: Yes, I have it.

section (of an orange, etc.): What makes this manufacturer different from other companies?

Fujiwara:Superior Togus uses cotton for the ribs, so they discolor when exposed to water. This is a rarity among military enthusiasts, and the company is regarded as a rare manufacturer. In fact, there are other items of clothing I would like to buy besides the L-2, but the military is so deep that if I get into it, I might end up in trouble.

chestnut fieldBut they take that off too, don't they?

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Fujiwara:The last one is work outerwear.

section (of an orange, etc.)Yutaka: You don't really have the image of wearing this type of outerwear, because you have the image of a jean jacket, don't you?

Fujiwara:I've always liked this area, and I have a variety of Lee coveralls, but I can't wear them due to adult reasons, so lately all I've been wearing are jean jackets (laughs). But recently I've been wanting to wear coveralls and store coats, so I thought I'd start wearing them now. I like to wear my jean jackets loose, but if I wear coveralls or store coats in the same way, they don't look good on me, so I am very careful about choosing the right size. My basic size is a 38.

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section (of an orange, etc.)What about: this store coat?

Fujiwara:This is from a brand called "CANTRIPUM. The original change button was not attached, so I replaced it with a heart-shaped button from Carhartt.

chestnut fieldOh, this isn't Carhartt?

Fujiwara:Yes, that's right. Only the change button is made of "Carhartt.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think this is a World War II model, judging from the stitching.

section (of an orange, etc.)It's true that five-button store coats are a bit scarce.

Fujiwara:I thought it was a little long for me, but on the first day I wore it, I got caught up in the hem while riding my bike. I thought it was a little long for me, but the first day I wore it, I rode a bicycle and got caught in the hem, so I shortened it by 20 cm (laughs). (Laughs) In the end, it turned out to be well-balanced, and I like it.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Where did you get this one?

Fujiwara:I bought this one at my house. But it hadn't been sold for a month, so I tried it on myself and found it was a good size, so I decided to buy it. I had been steadily collecting Carhartt buttons, so I finally got to see the light of day (laughs).

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The change button is an old type with no brand name.

Fujiwara:Yes, I have always collected items without branding because I felt that if the branding was on the item, it would look like "Carhartt.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm not sure I'd like to be here.

chestnut fieldIf people saw it in this condition, they would think it was a Carhartt store coat. If you want, why don't you cut off the tag and call it "Carhartt"?

Fujiwara:No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.): Come to think of it, this shape is often referred to as both a store coat and an engineer's coat, right?

chestnut fieldI guess it depends on the fabric. I think of a thin fabric as a store coat.

section (of an orange, etc.)I see. In Japan, it is often called a store coat, but I personally have a strong image of an engineer's coat, so I've always wondered which one it was.

chestnut fieldIt is true that there are many coats for engineers with "Ford" embroidered on the back.

Fujiwara:: I'm a little uncomfortable with that embroidery on the back, so if I'm looking for it, I'm shedding it without embroidery.

section (of an orange, etc.)Oh: Oh, I see. Personally, on the contrary, I find that one interesting.

Fujiwara:It depends on the era, but nowadays embroidered jeans are not so popular. I think that's one of the reasons, but I think that the embroidered ones are more popular nowadays.

section (of an orange, etc.)Oh, I see. By the way, how much do Carhartt chain buttons cost now?

Fujiwara:It's still 9,800 yen, just as it was in the past.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This doesn't look like it's going to go down.

Fujiwara:: There are some waves of popularity, but the price remains the same. Many women buy them for hair elastics.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Fitz: I also like these coveralls.

Fujiwara:I like it: it's a four-button great war, and as I said before, the size fits me well. I also have denim coveralls, but I often wear denim pants, so I thought it would be useful to have something other than denim. I also have a pair of raw silk coveralls, but I can't wear them now because they are "Lee" (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)Fitz: Fitz is only around this time period, right?

Fujiwara:: Yes, I think so. I think it probably disappeared in the '40s.' I don't think I've ever seen "Fitz" in the '50s.

section (of an orange, etc.)I wonder: was it absorbed somewhere or something?

chestnut field: It doesn't look like you have enough market share to be absorbed (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)I wonder if there was little demand for Fitz's mascot, the uncle (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It's cute, though.

section (of an orange, etc.): He looks like a lovable character now, but I wonder how he was then (laughs). By the way, do you have any other coveralls?

Fujiwara:I was looking for a herringbone 3-pocket type from "USMC" other than this and "Lee". I was particular about the laurel buttons.

chestnut fieldI'm sure it's a black lacquer laurel button.

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Fujiwara:I have a pair of denim coveralls. I also have [GWG] and denim coveralls.

section (of an orange, etc.)What is GWG?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It was originally a Canadian company that made "Levi's" and was absorbed by "Levi's" around 1967. I think it was absorbed by "Levi's" around 1967. The name design is really cool, too.

section (of an orange, etc.)I see that tag every once in a while. I didn't think it was that famous though.

chestnut fieldI think it was a pretty big company, because it was so big that it was on Wikipedia.

Fujiwara:I have a pair of denim coveralls from GWG. They came into our store a long time ago, and our president was not at all interested in Canadian-made products, so they were quite cheap (laughs). I asked him to let me buy them because they hadn't sold for a while, and he did, so I bought them (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I wonder why Yamada-san is not interested in Canadian-made products (laughs). Do you have any bad memories of them?

Fujiwara:I really don't buy them (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm not really interested in Canadian brands either, but I think "GWG" is different. I like the brand because they make not only designs but also fabrics and details that are quite interesting, and I own a lot of their products, but they don't stock them at all at "Belvergine" (laughs). (Laughs.) Even though they were absorbed by Levi's, they made designs that looked exactly like Lee's designs, didn't they?

section (of an orange, etc.)If I didn't think that Levi's would absorb me, I wouldn't have any choice (laughs).

chestnut fieldI'm sure (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I remember when I was a kid: there were all kinds of other interesting designs and details. Like that red-eye button.

Fujiwara:I'm sure it's interesting. ...... However, having said all this, I'm sorry to say that I haven't brought a single piece of "GWG" with me today (laughs).

chestnut fieldI noticed it earlier, but since the two of you were talking so passionately about it, I didn't dare to tell you (laughs).

Fujiwara:I'll call it a story for the next time (laughs).

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm sure you have some packing materials in your warehouse that say "GWG" on them.

The next page shows Michihiko Kurihara's personal belongings.
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