FEATURE| Daisuke Ohana and Tomohiro Konno , respectively, Alpha Industries.
GEAK TALKS.
Daisuke Ohana and Tomohiro Konno , respectively, Alpha Industries.
I'm sure, the contraption is Fat," "What age is this stitching? Daisuke Ohana and Tomohiro Konno. Since these two enthusiastic military freaks met face to face, the jargon and deep opinions never stopped. Among the vast number of topics they discussed, [<ALPHA INDUSTRIESThe "K" brand is especially popular, and it is no secret that it has many fans among the fashionable crowd. What is the appeal of this brand, which is well versed in ultra-geeky brands and even core vintage pieces?
Born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1974, he started working in vintage clothing stores as a teenager and was involved in buying from early on before starting his own business, N. Hollywood, in 2001. He continues to propose new interpretations of military items he has seen.
Tomohiro Konno(NEXUSVII. Designer)
Born in Chiba, Japan in 1977, he launched NEXUSⅦ in 2001, and since then has continued to create unique clothing that blends different elements of street culture, vintage, and the latest technology. Currently, he also serves as the creative director of "Think," a brand with an affinity for artwork and design developed by Medicom Toys.
Each Alpha Industries itinerary.
You two are well-known in the fashion industry for your love of vintage clothing and military goods, but what got you into military goods in the first place?
Japanese pampas grassI was a B-9.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Is it suddenly "B-9"? (LOL)
It's a down parka for the U.S. Air Force.
Japanese pampas grassOh yeah . It was in a gift bag from a thrift store. Well, I knew the thrift store, but they had told me that there would be a B-9, so I said, "Well, I'll buy it. So I got in line and bought it. It was made by "Eddie Bauer," so the texture of the down back was totally different from other brands.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It's fluffy, isn't it?
Pieces of vintage clothing are becoming much more expensive now , was it the same then?
Japanese pampas grassNo, no, it was a grab bag, $20,000.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Cheap (laughs).
Japanese pampas grassIs it cheap? Twenty-seven years ago, 20,000 yen, doesn't sound like a grab bag (laughs) . 17, so I was about a junior in high school.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). it's pretty stylish for a high school senior to be wearing a Bauer "B-9".
Japanese pampas grassWhere's Ima-chan?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)When I was in the eighth grade, an engine-colored "MA-1" from Alpha Industries was all the rage among the local yankees. But I didn't wear it. I was a little embarrassed that everyone else was wearing the same thing. Then, when I was in the third grade of junior high school, the owner of a select store I went to told me about "modified.
. It's a model with the boa taken from the collar of the "B-15D," the predecessor of the "MA-1.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). yes, I know. I was told roughly, "The previous model of MA-1 is more amazing!" I was roughly taught that. When I was a freshman in high school returning to Chiba from Mito, an older student at a thrift shop mistakenly priced a "modified" and an "MA-1. I bought one as soon as I saw that (laughs). (Laughs). I guess they must have made a mistake, especially since the later style is almost like an "MA-1.
Japanese pampas grassThe SPEC is, what was it, 7823-A? . oh, that's a G-1. . I'm a science major, so I memorized the numbers, but I've forgotten a lot of them.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)You were a science major?
Japanese pampas grass. I was a science major. I'm not a liberal arts major at all, and even now I'm good at remembering phone numbers and such (laughs). How much did you pay for that?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think it was something like 9,800 yen. Around the same time, Hiroshi Fujiwara and others were customizing the "MA-1" at Good Enough, I think. There was a story that the body of the MA-1 was a tall model made by Alpha Industries, and I had a black one. I think I might have worn it more with Alpha Industries than with Modified.
Japanese pampas grassIs that the current model at the time?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, I know. We don't make them anymore, do we?
Mr. Ohana, how long have you been aware of Alpha Industries?
Japanese pampas grassI don't remember much, but I'm from Machida, so my information was definitely about a year later than in the city center. But I remember that all the jeans stores were suggesting black "MA-1s" with black-and-white striped referee shirts or something like that, and I think it was around that time. I think it was probably at that time. But I don't remember if I really recognized it as "Alpha Industries. It was a brand that was so close to me that I don't remember how I recognized it.
As Mr. Konno mentioned, many people must have learned about Alpha Industries through Hiroshi Fujiwara and others. At the time, Head Porter was also making the N-3B, which was made of leather from the elbow down.
Japanese pampas grassHiroshi, you were also a "N-3B" player, weren't you? At the time, I was totally absorbed in vintage clothing, so I was totally unaware of this culture.
In that sense, I think you may have seen more of the transition of "Alpha Industries" in both vintage clothing and the fashion scene of the time than I have.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, for the time being, I remember that I used to avoid anyone wearing an enji-colored "Alpha Industries" when I saw them. It was troublesome (laughs).
Japanese pampas grassIs there any chance that the person wearing it wasn't wearing " Alpha Industries"?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)No, it was attached , this (tab on the utility pocket).
Japanese pampas grass. Then those people were fashionable, too, weren't they? At that time, there were many colored "MA-1s" in various places, weren't there? So they probably bought them because they were told by their seniors that "of course it's an Alpha! I guess they were told by their seniors to buy one.
What was the first piece of "Alpha Industries" that you wore?
Japanese pampas grassI don't remember that either (laughs). But at the time, it was said among leading vintage clothing dealers that it was cool to wear a windshield with vertical stitching that Steve McQueen happened to be wearing, rather than a special MA-1. I was also looking for and wearing such models from Alpha Industries. I also dared to look for an N-3B with a cotton-poly body.
Mr. Konno, what was your subsequent history with Alpha Industries?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Like Mr. Ohana, I was going in increasingly strange directions (laughs). (Laughs.) I was going in the same direction as Mr. Ohana, going in more and more strange directions (laughs).
Authentic N. Hollywood special order N-3B.
I feel like I dug so deep that I can no longer come back (laughs). This season, N. Hollywood also made a special order of the N-3B to Alpha Industries.
Japanese pampas grassThere is a test sample of "N-2B" where the hood can be removed, but since we are a "test product exchange service," we tried to make a mix of "modified" and test samples. . I tried to make sure that the mixing of elements would not be unbalanced.
. the looks are closer to the authentic ones.
Japanese pampas grass. I have changed the pattern from the cotton/polyester mixes of the era that I like.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I have never seen a modified with nylon on the outside and camouflage on the back, and they are all always cotton blends. . So I feel comfortable with the texture of Mr. Ohana's "N-3B" and camouflage.
What made you decide to produce the N-3B at this time in the first place, and why did you decide to ask Alpha Industries to produce it?
Japanese pampas grassAbout a year ago, our staff often said that they would like to have an "N-3B" or something like that, and we decided that we should make our own interpretation of it. After all, if we copied something completely, it would not be a test sample. . Instead, it would be more interesting to create something that is more like an urban legend.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's right. Above all, we are not replica manufacturers.
Japanese pampas grassOur brand has been doing a lot of remakes for a long time. I once saw a British army aviator jacket with a mouton hood painted yellow at a vintage clothing store where I worked. When the brand first started, I sampled the N-3B, a white fur jacket made of cotton polyester and painted with luminescent paint, and released it. . So the "N-3B" is the outerwear that started my brand. And the staff must have seen it. I guess the staff must have seen it and said, "That was really good, wasn't it! And they said, "Let's ask Alpha to do it again. And I think that's how we decided to ask Alpha to do it again.
How was the reaction of the people around you when you actually produced this new product?
Japanese pampas grassThe staff told me, "It's even better than I imagined" (laughs). They said, "Why do you guys have to say that!" (laughs). Well, that was just a joke, but I was surprised to see that it was accepted by a more conservative audience than I had expected. I was surprised that it was accepted by a more conservative audience than I had expected. I included some maniacal details, and although it was made as part of a test product series, I think it came together well enough to fit into the dress series as well. I myself wear it with the fur on the hood removed as a standard item.
Looking back in this way, there are many variants of the "N-3B".
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)In the 70's or something, there were denim ones.
Japanese pampas grassWhen I went to LA in my old thrift store days, I bought one from a guy who lived on the street ( lol ) , and I asked him "where did you get that? I asked him, "On the street." I gave him $50 and he gave it to me. Then he said, "I'll give you these pants too," as he was taking them off, but I said no, "I don't want those" (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)(Laughter)
Many of today's younger generation may not know the history of vintage clothing, but would you want those who do know to wear the "N-3B" collaboration model?
Japanese pampas grass. I don't know about that. However, even if we were to put out something like denim or an engineered color, it would still look like "......" even if we were to put out something straight from our memories of that time, and even if we didn't know the original, we could look at it as "it's fresh because it hasn't gone through that process".
. so even if you didn't experience the "N-3B" craze, you still have another way to enjoy it.
Japanese pampas grassHas "N-3B" ever boomed?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). I remember when the Titan cross stuff increased in the 90's and 00's....
Japanese pampas grassI went in the vintage direction back in the 90's. I didn't know there was a boom.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I remember buying a black Titan cloth one when I was a freshman in high school . . when I went to "Nakata Shoten" in Ueno with my friends.
Japanese pampas grass. I guess it was like good, affordable outerwear. There were a lot of down jackets and "B-3s," but the "N-3B" looked the most authentic among them. Come to think of it, there were a lot of people wearing black "N-3Bs" in the Delcaje (model-style casual) era in the early 90s. Black mountain parka or N-3B . And they wore regimen ties and white "agnes b." shirts.
The MA-1 is a special order MA-1 from NEXUSⅦ. that even enthusiasts will appreciate.
Last year, you collaborated with Alpha on the "MA-1" rather than the "N-3B" for "NEXUS VII.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's right. This project started when I was approached by Urban Research. They said, "Why don't you try making something with Alpha Industries?" They said, "Why don't you try making something with Alpha Industries? So, we sampled and made a test pilot model.
Japanese pampas grassHow many kinds did you make, Ima-chan?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)There are two colors. I imagined what it would have looked like if Alpha Industries had made it back then. The original was also reversible, and I think it was made in the 60s or 70s, with the same design on both sides. The original MA-1 was reversible, and I think it was made in the 60s or 70s. I thought it would be a good way to differentiate it.
Japanese pampas grassIt's a design that all military enthusiasts can more or less nod their heads to and say, "Oh, you're doing it," if they like military things.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I really wanted to make it without the bottom pocket, but I thought that would be a bit difficult to wear. Surprisingly, I often put my hands in these pockets.
Japanese pampas grassI know, right? I've been saying, "I don't need an inside pocket or anything!" I've always said, "I don't need inside pockets! Lately, I realized that I like pockets (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It's still convenient (laughs).
Japanese pampas grassOh yeah . Pockets are very convenient (laughs). These days I have less luggage than before, so sometimes just putting it in my pockets is enough. I don't need a bag anymore.
Mr. Ohana once told me that he traveled to the U.S. with only a convenience store bag when he was a used clothing buyer.
Japanese pampas grassYes . I think it's an ultralight packing run (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I have a similar story, but I was really taken by skater Jason Dill's black convenience store bag that he got at the grocery store. I didn't know much about Dill at the time, but I was like, "What the heck is that guy, he's so cool. After that, I was introduced to the president of Huff, and Dill pushed me home with that black bag. But in Japan, black bags are not sold. So, even now, when I go to the U.S., I get that bag and come back without throwing it away. I probably have about two cardboard boxes of those bags. There are all kinds of prints. ...I'm sorry, what was I talking about? (Laughs)
Japanese pampas grassIt's about pockets (laughs). Pockets are useful, right? . By the way, this "MA-1" is soft. It has a unique weight that is neither L-2B nor MA-1.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). The amount of padding is very small. The "MA-1" was very popular and has been used for a long time, right? So I wanted to make a twist rather than a straight-forward one. Even if it is reversible, it looks different from the normal one.
Japanese pampas grass. it doesn't have a windshield. And yet it's called a middleweight. . and I like that there's no stitching on the ribbed hem.
Was this the first time for NEXUSⅦ. to collaborate with Alpha Industries?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, this was the first time . If the seniors who wore the engi "MA-1" at that time saw this dialogue, they would be a bit... .
Japanese pampas grassWhy didn't you choose an engine? What?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes (laughs).
As Konno-san said, the "MA-1" boom has been around for quite some time now.
Japanese pampas grass. Therefore, I think the model that Ima-chan has created is interesting at this time. It would be different if you were just going to make a plain big silhouette or something like that.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, it is.
The original model updated with a modern look.
N-3B" is not very mainstream now, but it may be the right time to enjoy it in a very fresh way.
Japanese pampas grassYes, it is. N-3B" was not supposed to be an easy jumper, but if you zip it up around the neck, it makes the outfit look spiffy, and you won't be caught wearing a strange innerwear of a different length inside (laughs). . I feel that there are many reasons to wear it, apart from the fashion trend.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's right. I didn't like the original "N-3B" either, because the two-paneled sleeves and the shoulders stick out too much, and it didn't fit my body. . I just saw the latest "Alpha Industries" N-3B, and it is much easier to wear. I just looked at the latest "Alpha Industries" N-3B, and the raglan sleeves are much easier to wear. I think the design itself has already been perfected.
During the recent "MA-1" boom, I think I see the name tag on the arms of "Alpha Industries" in particular quite often on the street, and now with the "N-3B" I may have even more chances to see that sight again.
Japanese pampas grass. It's amazing that it made such an impact, isn't it? This kind of signature may have led to the collaboration with Vetements and others. It is also nice that the fur on the hood of the in-line "N-3B" can be removed.
If you two were to collaborate with Alpha Industries again in the future, is there anything you would like to create?
Japanese pampas grassHmmm . More than that, I personally would like to see the archives that "Alpha Industries" has created so far (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)As I recall, the documents only mention it from the 60's.
Japanese pampas grassBut it's still great that Alpha Industries has taken a position in the fashion trend rather than in military history, saying, "If it's this brand, then it can't go wrong. I like flight pants, so I hope we can make them together, but I think it would be too maniacal (laughs). (Laughs) , You wear an engineered MA-1, don't you?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)...... I would be glad if you could get away from the engi thing already (laughs).
Alpha Industries is proud of the attention to detail.
N-3B TIGHT Left , Center ¥24,800+TAX, Right ¥29,500+TAX
This modern series retains the original warmth of the N-3B, which can withstand extreme cold, but is arranged in a tight fit that can be worn neatly on the Japanese body shape. The tough, heavy nylon twill construction is sturdy, and the hood with detachable fake fur is lined with a boa, and the cuffs are inner ribbed, all with functional attention to detail.