The "Jobs in the Footwear Industry" head.

Interview with Rory Fuerst Jr. of KEEN

Inside the head of "Jobs in the Footwear Industry".

Since its establishment in 2003, the company has developed its footwear under the brand concept of "Hybrid Life," which combines three keywords: "Create," "Enjoy," and "Care. The brand concept of "Hybrid Life" combines three key words: "Create", "Enjoy", and "Care". The Portland, U.S.-based footwear manufacturer "KEEN" has developed a collection that embodies groundbreaking ideas and has gained the support of a wide range of users. We conducted a special interview with Rory Furst, Jr. the designer of the "UNEEK," which has been a hot topic since last year as the brand's flagship product, and the "UNEEK O2," a new model of the UNEEK O2 that was just born this year. The "Jobs of the Footwear Industry", what are his philosophies?

  • Photo_Tetsuo Kashiwada
  • Interview&Text_Yuho Nomura
  • Edit_Hiroshi Yamamoto
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Raleigh First, Jr.

The son of the founder of KEEN, a footwear brand founded on the West Coast in 2003 and now based in Portland, OR, he is also the creator of the UNEEK series, which was born last year as a revolutionary shoe and quickly became popular around the world. The son of the founder of the footwear brand "KEEN," he is also the creator of the "UNEEK" series, which was born last year as a revolutionary shoe and quickly became popular. Described by some as the "Jobs of the footwear industry," his talent as an innovator is also attracting attention.

First of all, as the son of the founder of Keane, what was your childhood like?

Laurie.. I had four brothers and sisters, including my father, who was the founder of the company, as well as my mother and myself, so it was a very lively family. So my childhood was very enjoyable. When I was young, my father's work took me on frequent trips abroad, and I often went to local shoe factories and events for his brand, so looking back, I think I spent a lot of stimulating time there. I visited Japan for the first time when I was 16 years old. I think this is my sixth time. It is one of my favorite countries because there are many cities where it is easy to spend time.

When you were a child, what kind of work did you want to do?

Laurie.: I had many dreams when I was a little girl, as I think everyone does. . However, I never wanted to be a shoe designer. When we were little, my father's company had a factory near our house, and it was one of the few places we could play. It was one of the few places where we could play, because there were so many tools and equipment that were exciting for kids. My father worked in the factory, which was also a playground, but I think the important thing was that he was there making things, rather than making shoes. I think that is why all of us felt that we wanted to be involved in "manufacturing" in a broader sense, not just in the limited world of shoemaking.

I know your father had a strong work ethic, but did he spend more time at work than at home?

Laurie.. more often than not, I wasn't at home. . But he is gone more often now than he was in the past. My father was a workaholic for a long time, but I think he made an effort to stay home as much as possible when we were young.

. We want to create innovation through design.

When you actually started your job, did your impression of Keane change from what you were used to?

Laurie.. I think I got my current job because I knew from an early age that I was more attracted to the brand than to the products I was dealing with. . I was aware of the differences from other brands from a young age. . So my impression of brands has not changed much.

By the way, did you have any other employment options?

Laurie.. Of course, I had many options. But I went from high school to college, and I was enjoying college life as much as everyone else, but I just spent a lot of blank time without a clear image of the future. I think those were the days of moratorium. ( lol ) And after that, I ended up dropping out of college. I had nothing to do after that, so my father suggested that I work for his company. . For a while, I went to a factory in China to learn production operations , and received training. As a result, I now realize that learning while actually working in the field was more beneficial to me than going to school.

Did your relationship with your father change after you started working?

Laurie.My father and I are both very passionate about our work, and we are both very strong-willed people with our own opinions. We naturally clash in various ways, but whereas when I was younger it was a one-way street from my father to me, now I am able to communicate my own opinions clearly. I have been able to say "no" to him, and I think this has allowed us to build a healthier relationship than we used to have. I think there are only a few people who work with their own fathers, so I feel that having the time to work with my father is a very valuable experience.

The process leading up to the realization of the project was the most difficult part.

What kind of work have you been involved in at Keane?

Laurie.: At first, of course, there was a training period, so I went to various factories and learned by listening to many people there. Later, I visited Europe and Japan and began to learn about the market, such as what kind of people actually buy what kind of shoes. While learning about such production and manufacturing, I gradually began to learn about design while working as an assistant to the in-house designer. However, I gradually became bored with the design work I was doing at the time. I began to think that I wanted to create innovation through design. At that time, I decided to create something completely new, not a new version of an existing model. I knew that innovation should not be something outlandish, but something that would function as a business with a firm footing and a long-term vision.

I think it was your creativity to create something innovative that led to the birth of the "Unique," which has become the new signature model of Keen.

Laurie.. At the time, we had a small department in the company that specialized in innovation. There, we would develop a lot of hypotheses, and we would propose and discuss a number of shoe ideas. Then I thought, "Why don't we completely change the way we make shoes, instead of designing them? The big idea that came out of that was the idea of combining the string ( string ) with the sole. For example, if you try to wrap an object with something flat, it won't work. The same is true for feet. I thought it would be unnatural to wrap a flat surface around a foot, which comes in different shapes and sizes from person to person. We realized that it would be possible to wrap them neatly by cutting the flat surface into regular pieces, and from there, through repeated trial and error, we gradually came close to the original form of the first "Unique".

What was the most difficult part of the first "Unique" to complete?

Laurie..: The biggest advance, if not the most difficult one, was arriving at the idea of using two laces, which we call "two-cord construction." With a structure that wraps around the foot in three dimensions, allowing for free foot movement, we finally had one goal in sight. But actually, there was a long way to go from there. I would say that the most difficult part was the process from the time we had a clear idea to the realization of that idea.

How long was the actual development period?

Laurie.. about 3 years. . It took us longer than expected to get to production because the process was completely different from our previous shoemaking.

What was the origin of the name of the "Unique" model that you designed?

Laurie.My friend Mike named them. I read the brand name "KEEN" upside down and added a "U" to the first letter to get "UNEEK". The "U" in the first letter of the word "UNIQUE" is the same as the word "UNIQUE," which means "unique. Until then, we called them "string shoes" during the production period.

Unique O2" reflects the opinions of consumers .

What was the response to the long-awaited release of the product after overcoming many obstacles and hardships?

Laurie.When we showed the finished product at meetings, most people said, "That's crazy," and it was difficult to get their approval. Many people warned that the strings would break and that it would be impossible to mass-produce, but we had already calculated these concerns. We had proven the durability of the product based on scientific evidence, and when we actually launched it, we soon found out that they were wrong. And the reaction from outside the company, or consumers, was, well, they either loved it or they hated it. . I was not bothered by that at all, because I knew that people would either love or hate any good product.

Have you made any improvements since the release of the first "Unique"?

Laurie.. We have made many improvements in small details, but the major change is in the material. The current model in particular is made of a softer material that is more comfortable for the foot. In the beginning, we used ready-made laces from wholesalers, but through the reaction on the street and by actually wearing them in various situations, we gradually realized that we needed to add stretch and elasticity to the laces. We then delved into the product of laces from all angles, and before we knew it, our knowledge had deepened to the point where we could boast of being specialists in laces. ( lol )

What is the main difference between "Unique" and "Unique O2," the newly released evolutionary model?

Laurie.. I started with an innovative idea for the "Unique" model, and it is a model that I started to make for my own wear. But the new "Unique O2" was created for the consumer, reflecting the reaction of the street. While the original "Unique" was wider, the new "Unique O2" has a sharper silhouette due to further modifications in the way it is made. Also, since the "Unique" was designed with an open heel, it was often perceived as a sandal. Therefore, for the "Unique O2", we improved the design by wrapping the heel to make it feel more like a shoe. The biggest improvement is the weight reduction, which is obvious when you compare them with other shoes. If you actually wear the shoes, you will feel that they are surprisingly lightweight. All of these improvements were made from the consumer's insight point of view, so we are confident that you will be satisfied.

Before the development of "Unique O2", did you have any idea of how it would turn out?

Laurie.. not that I didn't have it in mind at all, I had a vague idea of what I wanted." From the very beginning of the development, we wanted to offer the best for the market and the consumer, compared to "unique".

How do you plan to develop the "Unique" and "Unique O2" models that you designed?

Laurie.I hope that we can develop both models while keeping both wheels in motion. . I would like to explore the idea of a completely new product as well as a model that is constantly evolving.

So, while you are still thinking about improving these two models, do you have any plans for a completely new model?

Laurie.: As long as I am in a corporate organization, I believe that I have to balance evolving existing things and exploring new things. And more than that, I myself get tired of being involved in only one thing( lol).

By the way, did you feel any pressure working at Keane, being the son of the founder?

Laurie.. when I was younger, I think there was some of that, but I hardly feel it now. I didn't want to be like my father, and I had a certain amount of confidence in myself. . My father was my father, and I was me, and that stance has not changed. Since I was a child, my parents taught me to develop my strengths and become the best in the world in my field. . Perhaps because of this environment, I didn't feel any particular pressure.

I want to continue to create something that will surprise people and have a positive impact.

Incidentally, I don't think there is any Keen model that announces the designer's name.

Laurie.(: I'll have to ask someone in the marketing department about that. ): For me personally, it was never my intention to put my name on the product, but rather the product was the star of the show. But perhaps it is because of the story behind the development of this "unique" product. I have been working with "Unique" for the past several years, and I believe that we will continue to grow together in the future.

I never wanted to be a shoe designer.

Did you know that you are known as the "Jobs of the footwear world"?

Laurie.: I didn't know that ( lol ). Steve Jobs is like a cloud in the sky , so he is not a very comparable person. But at the same time he is my hero, so I am very honored. . It is no exaggeration to say that reading his books changed my life. . I hope to be like that in the future.

Do you have other influences like Steve Jobs from other fields that are different from your own?

Laurie.. Rather, I am more often influenced by people from other worlds, not only from the shoe industry. For example, I learn more from historical figures and people in the fields of medicine and science. . So I am not that conscious of competing brands.

Lastly, please tell us about the future prospects for both your brand and yourself.

Laurie.. I think Keane has a bright future ahead of it. Like any great company, Keane has a lot of great people. Innovation and a free spirit are part of the company's DNA, and everyone at Keane has a passion for making a difference in the world. As for myself, as a designer, I want to continue to create things that surprise everyone and have a positive impact. I hope to make an impact that is not limited to shoes, but is not limited to any form.

UNEEK O2 ¥11,000+TAX

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