FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

All about agnès b. JEANS supervised by Kohei Makita.

All about agnès b. JEANS supervised by Kohei Makita.

Since its launch in 1975, agnès b. has continued to pursue French casual wear. The brand has established its own identity by stubbornly protecting what needs to be protected, while flexibly incorporating new essences and skillfully coexisting with both. The "agnès b. JEANS" is the brand's first item to express this attitude. The brand was supervised by Kohei Makita of "THE UNION," an Osaka-based craftsman. We asked Mr. Makita, who came to Tokyo to coincide with the release of the new collection, about the story behind the production process.

  • Photo_Shota Kikuchi
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Muramatsu

PROFILE

Kohei Makita
THE UNION

Born in Osaka in 1975, he started "MOTIVE" in 1999, of which he is the director. After taking a break from the brand, he moved his base to Osaka in 2009 and launched "The Union," a collection of fashion brands. He is still at the helm of the brand in Osaka, while at the same time disseminating a variety of cultural information.

This time, I am not a double name, but rather a supervisor.

I found the combination of "agnès b." and Mr. Makita to be unexpected.

Makita:Yes, of course. I think so, too (laughs). I was surprised when I got the call, but I told them immediately that I wanted to work with them. I really liked the brand from a manufacturing standpoint.

What is your perspective on manufacturing?

Makita:The same is true of your connection to art, and you have been making universal border T's and cardigan pressions for a long time. Your style has never changed. I am very much attracted to that kind of attitude or spirituality.

The flashers on the hip pockets of jeans are made of paper made from reused denim scraps.
This is why it has a slight bluish tinge.

I see. How did you come to be asked to join us this time?

Makita:Actually, an acquaintance of mine used to work with "agnes b." He introduced me to the company. Agnès b." has continued to produce workwear as well. Perhaps that is where he found a connection with me. I don't know what really happened. So I immediately sent them the materials and they agreed to make a sample.

You made a sample out of the blue.

Makita:. Yes, that's right. I thought it would be easier to convey my ideas after I had actually reflected them in a product. I am not a celebrity, and I felt that people would not understand until they saw the product. When I sent the first set of eight models, including the jackets, they were very pleased. From that point on, things went very smoothly.

Jeans are a universal item, but what role do they play for you?

Makita:I think of denim as being like skin. Just like a human being, if you keep wearing it, it will get tired and deteriorate, and if you take care of it, it will happily turn into a nice color. I tell my juniors that it is like skin, and if they take good care of it, the color will fade well and the silhouette will be in line with their body. Of all the clothes I make, I like this one the best. I want to continue making clothes for the rest of my life.

. But it is also difficult to create because it is universal. . For that reason, I think that if we do not properly reflect our own ideas, we will end up with something wrong.

The difficulty lies in its simplicity.

Makita:. yes. After the rules and form have been established, something cool must be created. And it also has to have a clear statement.

What did you pay attention to when supervising this project?

Makita:This item is not a double name, and I am only a supervisor. Therefore, I thought hard about the customers of "agnès b." I wanted to please them by learning and understanding the brand's story and philosophy, and using my experience and knowledge in the process. I wanted to learn and understand the story and philosophy of the brand, and then use my experience and knowledge to make the customers happy.

A few minutes ago you mentioned that "the style has always been the same." What kind of image do you have of the agnis b. brand?

Makita:When I was in high school, there was a store in Ame-mura, Osaka . I knew the people who worked there, and at the time they were all wearing striped T-shirts and cardigan pressions. They also had contacts with street art, which was something different from other French brands. I liked that. Also, everyone knows about "agnès b." Even if you are an uncle or an aunt, you know what "agnès b." is. Older men, older women, and even young people know about "agnès b." I think that's great. I think that's amazing.

Did you feel any pressure because of the wide recognition of your work?

Makita:Of course, I felt the difficulty. With my own brand, the target would be narrowed down, but not this time. . That is why I had to let go of my ego. When I thought about a wide range of customers, it naturally became simpler and simpler.

. But when I look at the finished product, it still has an "agnès b." feel to it.

Makita:Yes, I also felt that it was "agnès b." I wanted to express the most important thing, so I am glad that you feel that way. That was the most important thing I wanted to express, so I am glad that you feel that way.

INFORMATION

agnès b

Phone: 03-6229-5800
www.agnesb.co.jp

To celebrate the launch of "agnes bjeans," a campaign using Instagram is underway! Post a photo of your own "agnes bjeans" with the hashtag "#agnesbjeans" and three winners will be selected in a drawing each month to receive a border T-shirt.