FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

All about agnès b. JEANS supervised by Kohei Makita.

All about agnès b. JEANS supervised by Kohei Makita.

Since its launch in 1975, agnès b. has continued to pursue French casual wear. The brand has established its own identity by stubbornly protecting what needs to be protected, while flexibly incorporating new essences and skillfully coexisting with both. The "agnès b. JEANS" is the brand's first item to express this attitude. The brand was supervised by Kohei Makita of "THE UNION," an Osaka-based craftsman. We asked Mr. Makita, who came to Tokyo to coincide with the release of the new collection, about the story behind the production process.

  • Photo_Shota Kikuchi
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Muramatsu

. simple, but when I put it on, it's so much better.

How did the actual work proceed?

[agnes b.] Jeans, regular ¥28,000+TAX

[agnes b.] Jeans, slim ¥28,000+TAX

Makita:While there were requests from "agnis b." for gray stitching, silhouette, etc., we proposed several fabrics and asked them to decide on the fabrics. Basically, we exchanged ideas based on what the brand wanted to do and how to express it in a stylish way. We exchanged ideas on how to express them in a stylish way. When there were areas that were mutually non-negotiable, we discussed the same issues over and over again to deepen our understanding.

. I think one of the main points of this item is that it is made of selvedge denim. Was this a suggestion of yours, Makita-san?

Makita:Yes, that's right. Among several proposals, including stretch fabrics, I received the response, "I want to wear selvedge. Personally, I was in the mood to wear selvage again, so I thought, "Agnès b. is hot" (laughs).

. This fabric is woven in Kojima, Okayama, isn't it? Is this something that can only be woven here?

Makita:To be precise, the power loom for weaving the fabric is the only one available here. The number of orders we received exceeded our expectations, which encouraged us to create original fabrics for this project, which we then used to make the product.

Why did you push Selvig?

Makita:The beating is good, selvedge is good. Most people pay attention to the "ears," but what I want you to pay attention to is the fabric itself. If the fabric is not well worked, the denim will look squishy, but the composition of selvedge is firm. But it doesn't stay that way forever; it gets softer as you wear it. The good thing about selvedge is that it gets better and better as you wear it, so you can wear it exactly the right size at first, and after about three days, you'll see that it's taking on a shape of its own.

Like the "skin" you mentioned earlier.

Makita:Yes, it is. . it is only possible because it is well struck and the weave is tightly packed. Because the composition is firm, the fabric stretches slowly over time. Then, air is added to the fabric, and it slowly becomes softer and softer. We hope that our customers will enjoy the pleasure of growing the fabric in this way.

. I think one of the factors that make these jeans "agnes b. like" is the gray stitching.

Makita:. maybe. . this was a request. To be honest, at first I wondered, "Why the gray?" But it is our job to make it look good. But it is our job to make it look good. So we made a sample and thought, "Surprisingly, it looks good. After that, Agnès Böhne asked us to make the stitching more prominent.

Makita:However, for our part, making the threads thicker would upset the balance of the look, so we responded by widening the stitch width. The response we received was, "It's nice that the stitches are thicker. It was interesting that I could make it look that way even though I did not make the stitches thicker. I think I was able to match what I was thinking and what the client wanted through the power of design.

You also had a request for the silhouette, didn't you?

Makita:I was sent the pattern for the regular and slim fit first. However, if we made them as they were, we would not be able to satisfy the customer in terms of comfort, so we made modifications from there. This was the most difficult part of the process....

What were some of the difficulties?

Makita:We went back and forth over and over again. While respecting what Agnès b. wanted to do, it took time to come to terms with my ideas, saying, "This is what we should do. We discussed even the difference of a few millimeters (laughs). (Laughs) But I think I gained a lot of knowledge through this process, and I think my jeans got better.

  

Do you communicate with the design team in France?

Makita:. Yes, I did. There is a pattern maker in Japan, so we communicated through him. So it must have been the most difficult for the pattern maker who was caught between the two.... The silhouette is very important, and I like the process of finding the ideal silhouette. When I make jeans, I always try to make the legs look longer. I think I was able to reflect that kind of attention to detail, and I think I was able to demonstrate what I have cultivated.

 

Was it because you were willing to respect the ideas of "agnès b." from the beginning that you were able to communicate with them patiently?

Makita:. I think so. . that I would try to erase as much of myself as possible, while only incorporating my knowledge. It was interesting and educational for me to do that. Agnès b. wanted to make jeans for a long time, but they didn't have the right designer to express their passion for jeans. As I mentioned earlier, I don't think there are many people who can understand the details of a few millimeters. I think it was good that we were able to discuss such trivial but important details. I also enjoyed the process.

What did you think when you saw the finished product?

Makita:I thought, "How simple they are! (Laughs) But when I tried them on, I found that they were really nice. I'm ready to grow it now, and I'm looking forward to seeing how it will look in a year. I can't wait to see what they will look like in a year's time and show them to everyone.

INFORMATION

agnès b

Phone: 03-6229-5800
www.agnesb.co.jp

To celebrate the launch of "agnes bjeans," a campaign using Instagram is underway! Post a photo of your own "agnes bjeans" with the hashtag "#agnesbjeans" and three winners will be selected in a drawing each month to receive a border T-shirt.

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