FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Ag and White Mountaineering and stylist's personal items. The story of the unnamed shoe that connects then and now.

Ag and White Mountaineering and stylist's personal items.
A story about a pair of shoes with no name that connects that time and this time.

Even in a familiar living room . . . in the usual convenience store . . you can wear them to a strange land. Stylist Koichiro Yamamoto, who has been friends with Yosuke Aizawa of White Mountaineering for 20 years, and designer Yosuke Aizawa of White Mountaineering exchanged only a few words when creating this new pair of shoes. They say that only a few words were exchanged in the making of this work. What was needed to complete the project was not in-depth meetings or square planning sessions, but the relationship between the two that they had built up over the years. In order to tell this story, it was necessary to rewind time a little to "back then.

When "Stylist's Personal Items" was launched, Yosuke Aizawa of White Mountaineering said, "I wanted to work with them someday, but I thought I would wait until I was approached," said Yosuke Aizawa of White Mountaineering.

In discussing the relationship between the two, we cannot ignore the story of how Koichiro Yamamoto* and Mr. Aizawa met. How did they come to work together on the Tokyo Collections and how did they come to create these shoes? It goes back to when Mr. Aizawa was 23 years old.

When I was working as an assistant at Junya Man*, the name "Koichiro-san" would occasionally come up in conversations with stylist Tsuyoshi (Noguchi) and other senior staff members at Yoshida Kaban. In those days, when stylists were becoming more and more popular, Koichiro-san was not in magazines at all, and he was an urban legendary stylist whose name was all by itself. And I wondered what kind of a person he was, that his seniors called him by his name," he said.

I was also featured in the magazine "HUgE" in a feature article on "Junya Man," where I was working at the time. At the height of the rock-style fashion boom, there were pages after pages of stylish styling, but for some reason, JUNYAMAN's clothes were hanging in a sumo wrestling room. I thought, "He's not wearing any clothes," but I was quite impressed by that. Until then, I thought a stylist's job was to dress people, but I realized that a stylist's job is not to dress people, but to create pages and do editorial work as well. I realized that fashion is a story. I later realized that this was the job of Koichiro-san, as my seniors had told me," he said.

*Following, Mr. Koichiro
* "JUNYA WATANABE MAN.

Koichiro pointed his camera at the 20-year-old photographer Misaki Tsuge, who brusquely said, "You've already taken enough pictures," while peeking through his white teeth.

Koichiro, who worked on the pages that could be described as heterogeneous, recalls that "JUNYA WATANABE MAN" had a "cute quality to it. There was something charming about the design, and even when combined with a real item like a loincloth, there was a kind of pressure in the design that would not be defeated. It was like they would detonate if you brought them close to each other. I am sure that this energy comes from the fact that we are a team with a lot of layers. I think I sensed in the JUNYAMAN of that time a strong sense of unity, like that of Jil Sander or Rumer today.

. On the left is an inline pair that Koichiro has worn for two years. On the right is his new partner, which he has worn for six months. As the shoes are worn in, the texture of each type of leather becomes more pronounced and the atmosphere is deepened. Once the black color gets a taste, it matches not only gray but also navy and green clothes," says Koichiro.

The shoes that the two men created together are based on Koichiro's KENTON shoes, which he used to wear as room shoes. The shoes were created in a crazy pattern using different leathers, such as suede, nubuck, and leather, and therefore have a rich expression that cannot be simply described as "black" in one word.

In addition, the sole has been changed from the usual 1.5 cm to 1 cm, making it easier to wear indoors. Furthermore, the inner boa has been made thinner than inline, forming a stylish form. These four different leathers were not ordered by Koichiro, but were the idea of Mr. Aizawa.

I knew that Koichiro's home and office had wooden and stone floors, so I made the sole thinner so he wouldn't trip on the steps, and I didn't have to ask him about details. I am sure that the designers who have worked on the "Stylist's Personal Items" project up to this point didn't have a thorough meeting with Koichiro, but rather created the items with him in mind.

It was like choosing a gift, and without exchanging many words, we were able to create the shape of the collection with a single breath of A-Un. This is no easy task, and it is no doubt due to the fact that they worked together on the runways of the Tokyo Collections from Spring/Summer 2010 to Fall/Winter 2013. Koichiro was the stylist for the first runway show, which marked the departure of White Mountaineering, and he recalls, "Koichiro was the only one who could do it.

I wanted the show to have a special meaning, since it was my first show as a designer. In terms of that kind of impact, the one that left the biggest impression on me was the one in the Sumo room. So I went to see Koichiro without hesitation. That was how the 2010 Spring/Summer collection was held. Behind the scenes of the spectacular catwalk, eminent stylists whom Mr. Koichiro had called together were fitting the models.

. It seems simple enough, but each person wears clothes differently. It may sound simple, but each person wears clothes differently, and the position that looks good on each person will change depending on the person, whether it is by pulling the shoulders out, letting the clothes hang slightly, or changing the waist position. . When the personal side of the garment peeks out, the garment looks better. That's why I asked a stylist to be the fitter for my first show. . I'm very sure that my interest is in the job. Even the fitters who are not interested in fitting people, I ask them to look at the clothes days before the show, so they have time to chew on it, and they are properly interested. Once they are interested, they are much better. I guess you could say it's time to put the interest to bed," he says.

To begin with, what does "Stylist's Personal Items" mean to Koichiro? . It is different from a brand, and I don't think the term "special order label" is quite right. As is the case with the crown of "Agu, White Mountaineering, and Stylist's Personal Items" this time, the brand name is always connected with "and" instead of "x." I wonder if this also has some meaning. . I wonder if this also has some meaning.

Long ago."COVERCHORDI once responded to an interview for the "Stylist's Personal Items" magazine, but I remember the selfish orders of regular customers, and "Stylist's Personal Items" is just like that. Like, "Put a fried egg on top of it," and so on. But in the case of gyudon (beef bowl), I don't like it with a lot of sauce. I don't like it when it's a collaboration. So, personally, I want to leave out some of the sauce. If I put an "X" on it, the number would increase, so I put an "と" on it.

The "stylist's personal effects" are completed when the finished samples are used and worn for several weeks or months, become accustomed to one's life, and, as the name implies, become "personal effects. In the same way, the shoes for this project were worn for six months before they were finally completed.

Come to think of it, the items in the "Stylist's Personal Items" section have always had some kind of item name, such as "T-shirt with inverted right chest embroidery in the same color," or "bicolor 3-ply ribbed socks. or "bicolor 3-ply ribbed socks.

When the interview is over and I ask, "What should we name the model?" they both say in unison, "It doesn't have to be." They both replied in unison, "You don't have to name it. As a writer, this was a bit of a problem for me. However, from their point of view, I am sure that this pair of shoes is what they are trying to convey by "that pair of shoes.

Even in a familiar living room . . or to the usual convenience store . To a strange land . And to and from the homes of people you want to meet. I wonder if these shoes will become a catalyst for communication, a reminder of memories, or just a pair of "those shoes" that appear in an old story with someone special. I thought so, but between you and me, it is a story.

¥25,000+TAX (BLACK)
SIZE: 23cm, 23.5cm, 24cm, 24.5cm, 25cm, 26cm, 27cm, 28cm, 29cm, 30cm

Based on the KENTON from [agu], the KENTON is made in a crazy pattern using different leathers in a unified black color, such as suede on the front, nubuck on the inside, long-fur suede on the outside, and outer leather on the heel. The sole is 1 cm thick instead of the usual 1.5 cm, and is designed to be comfortable not only for town use but also as room shoes. . They can also be used as backless slip-ons by folding down the heel.

INFORMATION

Ag and White Mountaineering and
Stylist's personal items

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