FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Spin-off: The appeal of Supreme from a "New Vintage" point of view.
What Is NEW VINTAGE?

So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Spin-off
The appeal of Supreme from a "new vintage" point of view.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," which includes vintage clothing from the 1980s onward, which was called "regular" clothing at the time. Four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. So, What is NEW VINTAGE? This is a spin-off of the series "So, what's NEW VINTAGE? The theme is SUPREME, now the absolute king of the street. Each store introduced items that will remain as new vintage items and talked about what to look for and how to enjoy them in this 10,000-plus-character talk. It's a bit long, but please bear with us until the end!

Selector 3_SIESTA Takashi Aoki

The design is a duffle coat, but the item name is somehow M-65!

Suddenly, the hurdle for the old man's team was raised by the academic discussion (laughs).

Aoki: Oh no... (laughs). I'm going to put out what I brought for now. A duffle coat and a leather coach jacket.

By the way, when were these models made?

Aoki: Hmmm, I don't know about that part. Ask the two guys at the Blue Room!

Hazuki: (Quick answer) 1998 and 2001.

All: Oh~! (Applause)

Aoki: So, let's just say that I answered your question in the article (laughs). First of all, this duffel coat is a Supreme, which is known for continuing to make M-65s, and the name of this item is "M-65 TGL PARKA". To be honest, although the texture of the fabric feels somewhat similar, the design is so different that one might say, "What's the point? (laugh). The truth is unknown as to whether this was derived from the M-65 or whether it was a duffle coat with an M-65 feel forcibly attached to it. Nevertheless, it is lighter than a wool melton duffle coat, and the fact that it was made in the U.S. by SPIEWAK makes it look like an old-fashioned coat.

Ito: It was a time when Supreme began to make clothes as a proper brand.

Aoki: At that time, the M-65 itself was produced by "Spiwak" on an OEM basis, and it was cool. They eliminated unnecessary details for skaters, such as chinstraps and epaulettes, and the following year the original "Spiwak" released the exact same design (laughs). (Laughs) The American roughness of the design is also good. The shell is half-and-half cotton/nylon. The shell is half-and-half cotton/nylon, and it is quite warm because of the padding.

Is this a model that has been released on an ongoing basis?

Aoki: Hmmm... .......

Sakamoto: Well, let's ask the "Blue Room"!

Hazuki: Maybe just one time.

All: Heh~ (impressed)

Aoki: ...I'm pretty sure it was just for one season.

You are smug about information you just learned.

Aoki: In addition to navy, there are three other colors: ivory and olive. There is no logo on them, and even if there is, it is only a simple pith name. Well, that's about it. In short, it's kind of cool.

Sakamoto: But if you wear this, clothes lovers will react. "Where is that from?" And.

Aoki: Yes, yes. The pith name is subtly appealing by pointing at it at that time. The olive and navy are the same color, but the ivory is brown.

Ito: You remember that part.

Aoki: As for this one, I just remember it because I sold a lot of them (laughs).

Do you find a lot of them?

Aoki: Well, they hardly ever appear anymore, and I doubt they will ever be made again. Nowadays, they would probably put an arch logo on the back. That kind of thing is totally cool, but if I were to wear it myself at my age, it would be a different story.

I think it's important to have that point of view if you consider it as a new vintage.

As you would expect from a New Yorker, this is a skater but mature coach jacket.

Aoki: Next up is a suede coach jacket released in 2001. The highlights of the item are... (while turning his gaze to the two men in the blue room).

Sakamoto: You're making other people's power available to you again! (Laughter)

All: (Laughing hysterically)

Aoki: But, you see. It's a paper tag, right?

So that means...?

Aoki: Yes, that's what I mean (laughs). The very idea of making a coach jacket out of suede is, as one would expect from a New Yorker, a skater, but an adult. As I mentioned earlier, they are very good at tweaking authentic items! Incidentally, when it comes to comfort, it's a double whammy: it's heavy and the form is bad (laughs). The sleeves are not ribbed, so the silhouette is stonier, so you have to wear it exactly the right size to look good. But that inconvenience is what makes it so American and endearing.

Ito: It was amazing that you were able to make inline products at that time, where other brands would have made them in collaboration with SCHOTT.

Sakamoto: It could be said that sampling is a technique or a cornerstone of street brand clothing production.

Aoki: That's right. Even if we don't create new designs, we can make cool things by ourselves. I think that's where the skater mindset can be felt at Supreme.

Sakamoto: I like it...it is truly hip-hop.

Aoki: What? What?

Ito: So I thought, "That's hip-hop.

Aoki: Yes, yes, it is hip-hop.

All: (Laughing hysterically)

Supreme" has many items sampled from vintage clothing, doesn't it? I heard that Supreme's design team often came to "T," the vintage clothing store you used to work at, to buy samples.

Ito: That's right. They wear only secondhand clothes, too. They are all stylish, but even if you passed them, you wouldn't recognize the designer of Supreme.

Aoki: The people who make the clothes are fashionable to begin with. When we were young, Supreme was a brand worn by cool adults, and we still have a longing for it.

Ito: (Glancing at the two in the Blue Room) This looks like a very high list price.

Aoki: (Glancing at the two in the Blue Room) Regular price...I wonder how much...?

They're a pain in the ass, aren't they?

Hazuki: It was listed as a new release in "Boon" in 2001, so I remembered the date, but not the list price.... But the moment I saw it, I remembered Good Enough. They also made suede coach jackets in 1991-92, didn't they?

Aoki: There it is, there it is!

Hazuki: Since they collaborated with Supreme in 1999, there is a strong relationship between the two, so it is possible that they may have been sampled from there.

Ito: That's possible - I guess.

Aoki: ...... They got all the ooopsies at the end! (LOL)

All: (Laughing hysterically)

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