HOUYHNHNM

Setsumasa Kobayashi
. Born in 1961. Representative of ...... Research . Mountain Research" proposes a unique style of mountain living that mixes Ivy, punk, military, and other elements with American casual wear.

Columbia's Fishing Vest Continues to Fascinate Kobayashi

-Mr. Kobayashi, please tell us about your encounter with Columbia's fishing vests.

Kobayashi. the first time I got a fishing vest was back in the 80's. I saw Joseph Beuys, a contemporary art artist, wearing a fishing vest and thought it looked cool, so I wanted to get a similar one. I went to a fishing tackle shop and looked at a variety of manufacturers, and found that Columbia's fishing vests were of exceptional quality, with solid 60/40 cloth, cushioning to relieve pressure on the shoulders, and numerous pockets. So, I bought that vest right away. . it was the first of many fishing vests in my collection.

-How did you wear it at the time?

Kobayashi. I don't fish, so I wore it only as street wear. Fishing vests with lots of pockets are great luggage wear for carrying things around. . So when I was traveling overseas, I used to stuff my stuff in the pockets all the time. At the time, there was no style of incorporating such clothing into daily life, so I was often approached by fishing enthusiasts on the street (laughs).

-What is it about Columbia's fishing vests that has attracted you so much to collect them?

Kobayashi: This garment is a collection of unusual details, so to speak. What is the purpose of this part? , "How is this pocket used?" . These questions come up one after another as you look at it. A door to the extraordinary or to another dimension is opened in a piece of clothing. In other words, it is a piece of clothing with a fantasy. That, for me, is the greatest appeal of Columbia's fishing vests. . Not only are the details interesting, but the product as a whole has a wonderful degree of perfection. Such thorough craftsmanship would not be possible without the technology and experience accumulated over many years, and the pride that goes into making a good product. In this respect, I am also attracted to the company Columbia itself.

COLUMBIA FISHING VEST COLLECTION

Columbia's fishing vests have always fascinated Mr. Kobayashi. . We asked him to pick out some of the most interesting models from his collection. Even when we say "Columbia" vests, there are many variations, from slight differences in detail to differences in color. The more you look at these items, the more profound they become.

This was the first fishing vest I ever bought from " Columbia " back in the 80's. It had Gore-Tex shoulder pads that doubled as flaps for the pockets. It had GORE-TEX shoulder pads , which also served as pocket flaps. When I saw the thorough pursuit of functionality in its construction, I was instantly captivated by it.

This collaboration item is based on an American-made fishing vest from the 1980s. At first glance, the two pieces appear to be the same model, but the D-rings on the chest pockets are in different positions. This subtle difference stimulates my desire to collect them.

. the red and light blue colors are really beautiful. The layout of the pockets seems to have been perfected, and items of the same construction but in different colors are being released. Variations before and after the finished model, with slight differences in details, before and after the finished model, are the most exciting. The light blue is a photographer's vest with almost the same design as the fishing vest. It has a tubular pocket on the back for a tripod."

. a gray vest is very rare, and this is the only one I've seen myself. . There are two types of pocket flaps: angular and rounded. It is hard to choose between the two, but for this collaboration, I chose the rounded flap."

Thoughts on Collaboration

-How did this collaboration come about?

KobayashiAfter I bought my first "Columbia" fishing vest, I kept looking for a new or used one, but every item I came across had a different detail. I couldn't find the same thing no matter how many times I bought it. I was determined to collect them all, so I kept buying and buying, and I ended up with quite a collection. Perhaps it was because of this that I was asked by Columbia to collaborate with them on the launch of "Columbia Black Label," and since I have always respected the brand, I was very happy. When I accepted the offer, I decided to use an American-made fishing vest from the 1980s with unique details as a base. I wanted to convey the fun of the vest to the modern world.

-How did you rework the model?

Kobayashi. The original details, such as: pockets and D-rings, have been largely retained. . The first change was to shorten the length of the garment so that it would look better with today's wear. Also, the pockets originally had a large gusset to hold a fly box or the like, but this was adjusted millimeter by millimeter to reduce the gusset width, arranging it to look sharper. The prototype also has a mouton fly holder, but we omitted it this time because it would shrink after washing. . We have ensured the functionality for practical use in fishing, but we want it to be worn only as street clothes.

-How did you decide on the four color variations?

Kobayashi. Beige is a basic color that cannot be missed. Navy is an original color that I made for ease of coordination. Also, I made a black one, which I have been looking for for a long time but have yet to find. The red one is for my 60th birthday celebration (laughs).

-Do you have any specific suggestions on how to wear it?

Kobayashi. In early spring, you can wear it as an inner layer of a spring coat, or, of course, you can show it off and assert its presence. It is interesting to see the sense of foreignness or discomfort that is created when a fishing vest with full functionality is added to a casual, everyday style. This is the charm of this kind of wear, and I would be happy if you dare to enjoy the sense of mismatch.

SPECIAL COLLABORATION

Based on an American-made fishing vest from the 1980s, Mr. Kobayashi adjusted and modernized the details. The 18 pockets on the front, back, and front and back sides, as well as the D-ring and other details, are retained, but the length has been shortened to fit today's style, and the pocket gussets have been made thinner to give a cleaner look. A distinctive feature is the zipper that can be divided into upper and lower sections at the waist. This is an excellent accent that can never be found anywhere else.