FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Manufacturing without a world view. Aplese presents an anonymous way of fashion.
CLOTHING EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT

Manufacturing without a world view. Aplese presents an anonymous way of fashion.

The strength of this brand is that it has no worldview," said Kazuma Shigematsu, director of the brand "A.PRESSE," which debuted for the fall/winter 2021 season. The ultimate simplicity is created by maintaining anonymity and eliminating the brand's colors. . However, hidden within it is a richness that only a lover of clothing can realize. Shigematsu has produced numerous fashion brands and projects. He and Ryo Miyoshi, director of "1LDK," with whom he has been in close contact both publicly and privately, talked about the first collection, which was "edited" from his unique point of view.

  • Photo_Ari Takagi,Shunya Arai (LOOK)
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

PROFILE

Kazuma Shigematsu

After working as an apparel importer, he established "ANTHINGS". In 2021, he started "Applesse," for which he will serve as director.

PROFILE

good day for business and lawsuits (trial day)

After working as store staff and press, he is now the director and face of "1LDK", in charge of store direction and buying. . He also produces other original items. . He and Mr. Shigematsu have been in contact both publicly and privately.

They see themselves as an editorial team that edits the clothes.

Please tell us about the concept of "après-series.

Shigematsu: I wear the same clothes every day. I see Miyoshi frequently, and we both always wear the same clothes. In other words, we both have a certain set of clothes in our closets. . But we want to wear more different kinds of clothes, don't we? . That's why I started this business, because I wanted to increase the number of first-rounders. However, if you make clothes only according to your own tastes, you can only do a limited number of things, so I make clothes while working with a variety of people.

You are not a designer, but rather a director, right?

Shigematsu: Yes, I am. In addition to myself, two other designers are involved in the brand, and the three of us make clothes as if we were editing. We all like both American and European clothes, so I wondered what kind of items we could create if we made clothes while skillfully editing the best parts of these items. At Appleseed, we have a theme of "CLOTHING EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT," and we see ourselves as an editorial department that edits clothes.

A: Just as you work with a variety of people to create an article, you take into account the opinions of many people when creating clothes?

Shigematsu: Yes, I do. I don't want my brand to be personal. A fashion brand creates a worldview through its seasonal collections. However, what we are doing at Applesse is an expression of single items. We carefully put together the ideas that come out of our discussions and create a single item.

Double Breasted Jacket ¥79,200
. The concept is a contemporary set-up that can be worn by adults in everyday life. . The material is wool and linen, and can be worn in three seasons. Combed wool is used for the warp and linen for the weft, giving it a vintage-like appearance. The use of pinstripes gives it a classic image. The rounded shoulder area is a feature.

It's more like incorporating a favorite item into your own wardrobe, rather than trying to coordinate the entire collection.

Shigematsu: You are right. For example, when a general brand makes outerwear, they also design innerwear and pants to go with it. Our brand includes coats, knits, shirts, and pants, but each item is independent of the others. So, for each look, I usually use only one item from "appliqué" for each outfit, and the rest of the items are coordinated with vintage clothing.

What kind of people are on the "editorial board"?

Shigematsu: They are people who are not in the media, but have designed for or been involved in the launch of well-known brands and select stores. They are famous within the fashion industry, but I don't want to say too much about that because it would add color to the brand (laughs).

Do you all have similar tastes?

Shigematsu: We are very similar. The base is vintage clothing, but the other two know a lot about fabrics, and are very knowledgeable when they talk about them, so I feel like I am editing the book with their opinions in mind.

Shigematsu-san, who has been in charge of production and sales for various brands and projects such as "Daiwa Pier 39" and "Weekend," what made you decide to start your own brand in the first place?

Shigematsu: Until now, I have often worked in a behind-the-scenes kind of way, but as I have worked with many of my seniors, I have often been told, "It's time for you to start your own brand. I was often told, "It's time for you to start your own brand. Such as Mr. Keiji Kaneko of "Reshop. So I was looking for the right time to start, and finally this fall/winter I am able to start.

Have you known Mr. Miyoshi for a long time?

Shigematsu: No, it's only been about 3 years?

Miyoshi: Yes, we've been connected through work for about that long.

What kind of person are you?

Shigematsu: Stop saying weird things (laughs).

All: (Laughter).

Miyoshi: We often work with people who are older than us, but Shigematsu-san is very close in age to us. He is still in his early thirties, but I simply thought it was amazing that he was able to get Daiwa Pier 39 off the ground, as I mentioned earlier. I think he is not only a fashionable and cool person, but also a producer and salesman who thinks about business in a proper way.

Mr. Shigematsu worked as a sales representative for the brand, and I worked as a store director, so we originally had a business relationship, but once when I participated in a project for the "Abu Garcia" brand, we worked as members of the same team. When I talked with him in such a close relationship, I found that our senses were very similar.

What did you think when you heard that Shigematsu-san was going to start his own brand?

Miyoshi: I thought he must be feeling a lot of pressure (laughs). (Laughs) . As a producer, I have made various brands successful, so I would not be able to do a bad job if I had to do it myself. . And I'm sure there are people who are jealous of my success. He is a prominent figure in the industry, and I knew I couldn't let that pressure get the better of me.

Shigematsu: To be honest, I didn't feel any pressure at all (laughs). (Laughs.) I was confident that I could make this dress. I was afraid of what the buyers would say. I did wonder what the buyers would say. I was more nervous about launching a client's brand than my own brand. I always think of excuses for what I will do if I fail (laughs). (Laughs) . With my own brand, I only had to take responsibility, so it was easier for me. Of course, I was concerned about the evaluation, but everyone said it was good, so I am grateful for that.

INFORMATION

A.PRESSE

Instagram:@a.presse_

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