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FEATURE|Vintage Summit 5: A talk session by four familiar Vintage Summit favorites. Unplugged Extension! Exclusive Vintage Meeting

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Exclusive Vintage Meeting

Vintage Summit 5 Talk session with four familiar Vintage Summit favorites. Unplugged Extension!

HOUYHNHNM's famous "Vintage Summit" was held in "Unplugged Vol.5". This time, we are presenting an extended version of the event, featuring items that could not be fully introduced in the magazine. Tomohiro Konno, Michihiko Kurihara, Fujihara Yutaka, and Takashi Abe, all known as the industry's foremost vintage clothing enthusiasts, held a heated talk session that lasted a total of six hours! We hope that the passion of these four people for vintage clothing will reach our readers, if only a little. We have also prepared a topic for Vintage Summit fans at the end, so please enjoy the article to the end, even if it is a bit long! So, Vintage Summit extension, here we go!

  • Photo_Takeshi Kimura
  • Text_Shuhei Sato
  • Edit_Yosuke Ishii

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Tomohiro Konno(Photo left)
NEXUSVII. designer, born in 1977, launched NEXUSVII. in 2001 in New York. His own experimental directly-managed store "V.E.L." reopened on May 1, and his personal vintage archives are among the best in the industry. V.E.L. boasts the industry's largest vintage archive of personal items.
Fujihara Yutaka(middle left)
Director of Ber Ber Jin, born in 1977, is the author of "THE 501XX® - A COLLECTION OF VINTAGE JEANS" (published by World Photo Press). The official book of 501XX, "THE 501XX® - A COLLECTION OF VINTAGE JEANS" (World Photo Press), which he was involved in as a supervisor, has been well received and will be re-released on May 1. He is currently considering his next project.
Michihiko Kurihara(middle right)
Vintage buyer, born in 1977, started his freelance career in 2011. He is one of the best vintage buyers in Japan, trusted not only by vintage clothing stores but also by many select stores and brands. He spends about half of the year in the U.S., and is respected by many for his stoic buying style.
Takashi Abe(Photo right)
Staff member of BEAMS Online Shop, born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer, and is a knowledgeable person who has handled many articles related to vintage clothing. Currently, he is in charge of writing for the company's website. He is also known as a collector of vintage bandanas.

Lecture 1: Tomohiro Konno
The process of improving specifications through repeated trial and error is the appeal of test samples.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)So: let's get to the extensions as soon as possible. First of all, I prepared two slightly different MA-1s myself.

Fujiwara:I'm sure you've seen this black MA-1, it's a great color.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The original MA-1 was originally a black MA-1, but perhaps this lot was partially made of olive fabric dyed black on top, perhaps because the production of black fabric could not keep up with the production of this lot.

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section (of an orange, etc.)I don't see many of them, but are there a few of them?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): No, it's not old, but I thought there were very few of them. I have only seen three pieces so far, and this was the first one in my size.

chestnut fieldAs far as I can tell from the design of the Alpha Industries tag, it must be around the 1980s.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, they don't have absolute value as vintage, but they are few and far between, and this kind of rarity is perhaps the best part of vintage clothing.

Fujiwara:What is the other MA-1?

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This is probably a test sample. The most distinctive feature is the use of Bislon fasteners. I have personally only seen this in the "A-1 deck jacket," the successor to the N-1 jacket that was issued to the US Navy in the same era. I was surprised to see it being used for flight.

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chestnut fieldI've certainly never seen it before.

Fujiwara:: It's always a white tag if it's a test sample, but initially it's a big one. Modifieds also get a white tag, but the size is smaller and the collar is not open, so as far as the tag marks are concerned, I am pretty sure it is a test sample of the "MA-1".

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): I think the interesting thing about test samples is that you can improve the specs through repeated trial and error. The fact that things are really scarce is, of course, a big attraction.

Fujiwara:Among military items, test samples have a lot of enthusiasts, and the prices are only going up. The most popular flight jackets, in particular, sometimes exceed one million dollars. They are definitely valuable items.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Next is something I have been collecting for a long time: colored flocky sweatshirts. It has recently been established as a genre, hasn't it?

section (of an orange, etc.): That's for sure. There are a lot of people who collect them.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It is very difficult to make color flocking in this day and age. Even in Japan, the number of places that can produce them is rapidly disappearing.

Fujiwara:How do you make it?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The fabric is now in sheet form and has a flocky look, but at that time we used a technique called electrodeposition. The base is coated with glue, and fine fibers, which are easily charged, are made to stand up on it with static electricity.

chestnut fieldIs it an image like iron sand?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes, that's exactly how it was done. From there, they would color each piece, sometimes freehand with an airbrush, sometimes with a stencil-like plate, and in some places with a sprayer.

section (of an orange, etc.)Where did you buy these?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): This Spartan print is a "Bostock" in Harajuku, right? A collector brought in a lot of them, and I chose this one out of about 20 that were there. The other one was at "White Head Eagle" in Chiba. One of my seniors was working there at the time, and he told me, 'I have a sweatshirt that I think you'll like, so I'll hold onto it for you,' so I went to pick it up and found this hard print (laughs).

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chestnut fieldBut this is quite rare. I saw it for the first time.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think that most of the colored flockies are collegiate. As you collect more and more of them, you start to recognize the characters that are used in different ways, changing only the colors and letters. In my opinion, the University of Kansas parrots are the most common.

chestnut field: Or a Wisconsin raccoon, I guess (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)But the price of color flocking is also rising, isn't it? Nowadays, a black body costs about 35,000 yen.

chestnut fieldI think it's a fair price. I think it's a fair price.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): I'd like to have the next military jacket verified by Chestnut. It looks like the owner of the place I bought it from found it in a military dealer's warehouse, so I'm pretty sure it's a military item. I'm personally wondering if it's a submarine type, considering the organization of the fabric. Looking at the material and the shape of the collar, I'd say it's from the 30's or so.

chestnut field: probably from the 30's or so. At first glance, I thought it was either a Subliman or a Prisoner, as Konno-san said. However, when I looked at the construction of the item, I found that the lining was well done and the Prisoner line was thin.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think you're right. Prisoner melton is usually tailored in one layer. However, the twill coveralls with change buttons that Kuri-chan put out in large quantities before had a lining, even though they were prisoners, didn't they?

chestnut fieldI think it is more likely to be a submarine rather than a prisoner because the shape is just too good for this.

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section (of an orange, etc.)How much did you pay for it?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)It's about 80,000 yen. I was wondering how much a wool coat would cost.

Fujiwara:: It is very difficult to make a decision without so much information. This kind of item is.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Yes, it's expensive where you put it on, but I'm sure you could pop it on the cheap.

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the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Well, that's the last one. I think we're a little short on punch if we go with this flow (laughs).

Fujiwara:: No, it's okay, I've never seen it before (laughs).

section (of an orange, etc.)What is this all about?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I'm looking for a Tyrolean sweater with this kind of part (hook button). I was looking for a Tyrolean sweater with this kind of part (hook button). I was looking for something simpler, and that's when I found it. I found one called "Inver Allan" and bought it.

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section (of an orange, etc.)Where did you get it?

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This is from Shimokitazawa, about 7,800 yen and not expensive, but when I look for knitwear like this, I find only ladies' knitwear, and surprisingly, men's knitwear is not so common.

Fujiwara:What age is it?

chestnut fieldInver Allan's tags are basically the same, so it's hard to tell the age of the products.

Fujiwara:I've been to the U.S. to buy, but I hardly ever see them.

chestnut fieldI'm sure it's one in a few thousand, maybe.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.): Also, what I like about this knit is that it's not a loud pattern, but a solid pattern and calm colors.

section (of an orange, etc.)I'm sure you're right: there are a lot of patterns in this kind of knitwear.

the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)If it were a cable knit or something like that, it would be perfect. I'll look for something else slowly (laughs).

On the next page, we will show you the personal belongings of "Berberzine" Fujihara Yutaka.
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