The stakes are high, and even if you get hammered, you still continue to do it.
Now that you have an idea of the collaboration, I would like to ask you, Mr. Yazane, is there a difference in the way you feel when you are involved in this collaboration series compared to when you usually work on patterns for various fashion designs?
Yazumi:To be honest, there is not much difference. I think it is limited to my clients, but basically they all like vintage clothing and are familiar with vintage clothing-related production. So it was easy to work with and understand.
I guess people like you are in the minority.
Kobayashi:In my experience, everyone accepts my work, but there are not many people who can take my ideas of volume and the way details should be handled and arranged, and make me feel satisfied with the finished product. I was first introduced to him by (stylist) Fumihiko Okabe, who took me to an exhibition of his own line of "Stabilizer (jeans). However, at the exhibition, of course, there was only denim. I don't know anything about denim, and I've never been to one in all my years of living (laughs). (Laughs) I'm really sorry, but to be honest, I wasn't really interested in it, so I left the exhibition and said, "I'm fine.
Yazumi:I can't talk to Mr. Kobayashi any more..." That was the first time he said that to me, and it lasted about 10 years (laughs).
It's not a nice first encounter episode (laughs).
Kobayashi:I guess my narrow-mindedness came out! (laughter). But this time, Kai showed me some of Yazane's work, saying, "These are patterns that Yazane-kun has done. Of course, there was the original material for this vest, and although it looked the same at a glance, the volume of Yazane's expression was completely different. Even if I had said, "Please make it like this," if the original was a very large size, it would not fit well within the size, because the original would be shaken. But he made it perfectly, so my first impression of him was, "Wow..." I was surprised.
Here is the vest. The sampling source is the British Army Armored Forces (AFV) Crewman's Vest, which has a large front left and right compartments that open to reveal more detailed pockets. The original is quite heavy, not only in weight but also in the number of parts and the amount of fabric, but in this collaboration, light and strong Rokuyon cloth is used to make it comfortable. TrekVest 60/40 nylon ¥30,800
I see that the two of you have finally grown closer.
Kobayashi:I am currently working with Kai on a riding wear project, and I even asked him to help me with that project after he gave me the OK.
Yazumi:About two years ago, I started drawing patterns for "BAMBOO SHOOT," and at that time, I was taken to Mr. Kobayashi's place on short notice for a collaboration meeting, so I was nervous, remembering that time.
Kai:(Laughter).
Yazumi:I am glad in that sense because I am still making denim when I see him after a long time since he said that. I think it is a good thing that I am still making denim even though the stakes are high and I have been beaten.
Kobayashi:I'm not hitting it, so I'm not (laughs).
Yazumi:(Laughs). In the end, I was able to work on everything from the collaboration with "BAMBOOSHOOT" to Mr. Kobayashi's own products, so it was a worthwhile experience.
Kai-san entrusted Yazane-san with the pattern because he saw a silver lining, I believe.
Kai:I've known Yazane since I was 21 or 22 years old, so we've been together for about 25 years now.
Kobayashi:It's been that long!
Yazumi:Yes, I was working part-time at a vintage clothing store called "Nude Trump" while attending Bunka Fashion College. At the time, I was working part-time at a vintage clothing store called "Nude Tramp" while attending Bunka Fashion College, and Mr. Kai came to consign his vintage clothing to the store.
Kai:The boss of Nude Tramp, Itsuo Matsumura, was our senior, and he often took care of us. From there, Nude Tramp was established in Shibuya, and we sold vintage clothes on consignment with our seniors. When I brought a lot of vintage clothes for consignment to Nudo, Yazane was there.
Yazumi:I entered the culture a year late, so I must have been 20 years old at the time.
Kai:At that time, we had already talked about becoming pattern makers. After that, we continued to hang out, have drinks, and he even came to my house to shop, and our relationship continued. He knew vintage clothes and was easy to talk to, and I knew that he would be the person to ask.
Yazumi:Now that I think about it, I really was a kid. I still am. Nude playing cards at that time were consigned by clerks at thrift shops all over the place, and if you looked at the back of the price tag, it usually said "Kai". If you look at the back of the price tag, it usually says "Kai." There was also "Ohana" and so on. Daisuke Ohana was a staff member of GoGetter at that time.
Kobayashi:That's great, that business! (Laughs). If it says "OHANA" on it, I might as well buy it once anyway, even if I don't like it (laughs).
Yazumi:I think it's hard to find a store that has about 100 packets of vintage clothing every time I go to the U.S., but still doesn't have enough to keep people's consignment items. We were in the middle of the third or so vintage boom.
We are gradually getting to know the backbone of each of you, but let's get back to the topic of craftsmanship. We have collaborated a number of times, and I thought that the five models here are the most Kai-like.
Kai:That's right. This time, in particular, I started planning the chambray shirts and fatigues, which I love the most. There used to be an outdoor brand called "Synergy Works" that was a bit perverted, and I think it was around the 1970s. The tag was cool and I liked it, but there were not many people I could talk to about it. But when Mr. Kobayashi mentioned the name "Synergy Works," I felt very comfortable with it. That led to the ventilation, which is a common gimmick in this project, and since we were able to talk about it, it took shape very quickly.
This chambray shirt has an impressive gimmick: it can be completely opened and closed with buttons from the cuffs to the hem of the body. This shirt is based on an authentic U.S. Navy archive, and looks like a very authentic piece when worn as a normal shirt. It has "Ph" embroidery on the front and "DEEP IN THE WOODS" stenciled on the back. Chambray Trek shirt ¥28,600
I think you mean the ventilation under the sleeves of the shirt. It's amazing when it opens. It looks normal at first glance, but I was surprised.
Kobayashi:Well, that's right. You don't usually notice it.
Kai:When I wear this, the wind really escapes from here (the sides). It feels sooooo cold. I thought it would be cooler if I went to the mountains in summer.
When people think of what to wear in the mountains, they often think of so-called "tech gear". How do you feel about the distance from such things?
Kobayashi:Every generation loves nylon, the color and lightness of nylon. Of course, we love those things too, starting in the 70s. Later on, when I was inspired by the opinions of nature people, I started to think that I wanted to spend as much time as possible in wool and cotton, as long as I wasn't in extreme conditions. I think this is the root of what (Henry David) Thoreau said, "Always live simply and think simply. It's impossible to eliminate everything made of petroleum-based materials in this day and age, but I sometimes think it can be done in certain parts.
I think that if we stick too much to organic and natural, it will become unnatural in this day and age.
Kobayashi:In Japan, the distance between the mountains and the city is very close, so if it becomes a hassle or a pain, you can just go home (laughs). It's not like in the U.S., where once you go to the mountains, you can't come back...you have to be prepared for the hard part. I think Japan has that way of enjoying the mountains, and it is different from the American way. I think that's the point. But if you do what we do in the U.S., you may not be able to have fun.
Kai:A friend of mine is finally starting a trail development business as a general incorporated association.
Kobayashi:That's great.
Kai:It looks like the world is going to have trails that aren't peak hunting, aren't acrobatic, and can be walked on without a hitch.
