FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Unlikely clothes born from "fodder in the wardrobe".
Featuring TapWater®.

Unlikely clothes born from "fodder in the wardrobe".

You never wear them, but you can't seem to get rid of them. TapWater®" is a brand that re-edits such "wardrobe fodder" and releases it to the world with a modern interpretation. The brand is led by Takayuki Minami, creative director, and Daishi Nishino, designer of NEAT. The duo released two models of pants last summer, and this time they have designed six new models. Each of them is an "unlikely" item that incorporates unique ideas. We thought we would ask Ms. Minami and Mr. Nishino to talk about this collection, but the conversation went off in an unexpected direction. Here is a transcript of that conversation.

I'm learning a lot of ideas, or rather, I'm learning so much.

As you mentioned earlier, I would like to know about the items from the pants.

Westfield:The original pants were made by Patagonia for innerwear, and I bought them at a retail store when I was a college student. At first I wore them outside, but gradually they became my nightwear. The reason for this is that they are for innerwear, so the crotch is very shallow and the thighs are snug. But the fabric and pocket details were cool.

South:So we decided to make this a cool silhouette that I want to wear now.

The fabric is made of Polartec's Power Grid, which traps heat while still allowing breathability. It is stretchable, smooth on the outside, and warm on the skin with a brushed fleece surface. Grid Fleece Pants ¥26,400

Westfield:The crotch has been made deeper, the thighs are thicker, and the shape is more relaxed and tapered. We have made them look like the suede pants that people wear on the street nowadays. There is also a drawcord at the hem so that you can cinch it up.

South:And the fabric was the same as the original. I looked for a lot of fabrics. Then we decided to use this one. The fabric is called "Power Grid" by Polartec.

Westfield:We have a nice item, don't we? Then Mr. Minami said, "Don't you want the top one too? (laughs).

South:. they usually want to set it up (laughs).

The fabric used here is also Polartec's "Power Grid". Taking advantage of its characteristics as a thin fleece, it can be used as an outer layer in spring and fall, and as an inner layer in winter. The silhouette has just the right amount of room to give you a sense of volume without making you feel inadequate.

Westfield:. So we also made a blouson with a nice loose silhouette.

South:This one also has a hem that can be hemmed. The charm point is the "TapWater®" tag. . It is casually attached to both the blouson and the pants.

. There is a sense of a mysterious outdoor brand, isn't there?

South:It means tap water, but if a foreigner sees it, the sense of mystery will be even greater. They would say, "What the heck is this brand" (laughs).

Then, the next item is a jersey, isn't it?

Westfield:These pants are based on the jersey pants that gym teachers used to wear. The material is jersey, but the silhouette is like slacks. . They are also tight-fitting and have a flared silhouette.

South:. you can almost smell the 80's, can't you?

Westfield:. I also changed the silhouette to a more current one. Also, the fabric is amazing. I asked a factory that used to make jersey material for "adidas" to make it for me.

South:I found a factory that used to make jersey fabric for "adidas" in the 70s and 80s. You can't make the fabric exactly the same as it was back then, so it would probably have a more dowdy finish. Modern sinker looms are very good, so I had the fabric made on those.

It's amazing to find such a factory.

South:I remember when I went to the machine shop. But I never had a chance to use it for my own brand. I tried several times to make jerseys, but I wasn't satisfied with them. Then I found an item that fit perfectly this time.

Westfield:That is the great thing about Mr. Minami's background. He would say in conversation, "I have something like this.

This is a modernized version of the classic jersey of the 80's. . The fabric is knitted in the same way as back then , increasing the density for a clean look. The retro details at the waist are retained, and the regular fit is slightly tapered to create a classy silhouette.

What did you do with the silhouette?

South:Like beautiful slacks. It's the kind of thing you're known for, Mr. Nishino. Rather than being extremely thick, they're rather elegant.

Westfield:. yes, it is. It's a straight, tapered silhouette. However, I thought it would be a little different to use this fabric for "NEAT".

South:Yes, that's right. Even "Graphpaper" is a little different.

We both wanted to make something, but it didn't fit within the framework of our own brands, so we made items for Tap Water.

A unique piece made of jersey material based on a classic American traditional blazer sample. The compact silhouette has a moderate amount of room around the chest and arms, and a slightly shaped waist.

Westfield:Yes, yes, something like that. And then Mr. Minami said, "Let's make the top one too" (laughs).

South:That's right (laughs). But making a jersey top is not artistic, so I thought why not make it into a jacket, so I asked Nishino to bring me an item that had been in the feces of his wardrobe.

Westfield:That is the double jacket from "Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. It was too small to wear, but I made it bigger and more modern based on this jacket.

South:Jerseys and double jackets are a bad idea.

Westfield:. with "TapWater®" embroidered on the chest.

South:It's got a nice, salty, out-of-the-way feel to it. It looks like it will become old clothes in the future.

And finally, is this a sweatshirt?

Westfield:This sweatshirt is made by "Champion".

. It's a size you could wear, isn't it?

Westfield:I think I could wear this. . but Mr. Minami said, "There is soooo much material.

A sweatshirt with a chinstrap made during a very limited period in the 1990s is expressed in a 65% cotton, 35% linen backed fabric. The linen yarn is carefully knitted with a sweeter gauge to give it a rich, fluffy feel and a good kickback. . special processing gives it a beautiful silk-like luster.

South:So I made it in a fabric that is 65% cotton and 35% linen . I had seen the factory that made this fabric try and knit it many times, and they kept making mistakes. When I asked the factory to make it this time, they were determined to do it, and they came up with this gem of a fabric.

Westfield:Cotton linen and lined is amazing, isn't it?

South:. like this streaked fabric texture, it looks like linen, doesn't it?

. It is unusual to have a chin tab on the collar.

South:Yes, that's right. . We thought that was unusual and nice. . However, the front opening had been designed to open and close with a snap button, but we changed it to a zipper to make it a little sportier.

Westfield:. We put the name "TapWater®" on it as well. So we made the top one, and then we decided, "Now let's make the bottom one..." (laughs).

I guess that's the usual pattern now (laughs).

A sweatshirt with a chinstrap made during a very limited period in the 1990s , made of 100% linen-lined fabric. The linen yarn is carefully knitted with a sweeter gauge to give it a rich, fluffy feel and a good kickback. A special treatment gives it a beautiful silk-like luster.

South:Let's go with a set-up (laughs). . But with this fabric, it can be used in all seasons. . It is cool and can be used as an inner layer in the fall and winter.

Westfield:This is a really nice fabric. It is lightweight and comfortable to wear .

South:. It's also interesting to wear leather shoes with these pants.

. It would also look good with the jacket I mentioned earlier.

Westfield:Ah, yes, indeed! Mr. Minami makes a lot of suepans for Graphpaper and Fresh Service, so we asked him to create a nice silhouette for this one, too.

Do you happen to have a sporty lineup this time around?

Westfield:. I guess it's a consequence, but I guess it means that my mood is in that direction.

South:. but it wasn't like being outdoors.

Westfield:Yes, that's right. I wanted to do something that "NEAT" could not produce. And this is the kind of item I wanted to create.

As you mentioned earlier, I think the charm of "Tap Water" lies in its "edited clothing.

South:They're pretty lively. They're like, "Oh, no, this is bad.

. I don't think a designer could make these clothes even if he/she wanted to.

Westfield:Mr. Minami, while laughing, suddenly says something out of the ordinary. At first I was like, "What's that? But as we talked, we got more and more excited, and by the end, he said, "That's a good idea! I think I'm learning a lot from that idea. I learn a lot from their ideas. Like Mr. Kaneko of "Reshop," the older members of this generation are full of great ideas, but they are all so serious (laughs).

South:When the story is solidified, he says he will take it seriously (laughs).

. But the sense that you enjoy doing so shows in your clothes, doesn't it?

Westfield:Even when we all go out for a drink together, we can't just leave. We would always say, "I want to do something like that next time. And then, we would put it into action. In the past, Mr. Minami started a project called "Grateful," which was also decided at a bar.

South:When the Grateful Dead toured, all the heads would follow them and start doing business by selling recordings and merchandise. We thought it would be fun to have an event like that.

Westfield:So we named it "Grateful".

South:I thought it would be interesting to do something with people who are different from the usual members. That's how it all started.

It's amazing how a conversation at a bar can take shape. The speed and energy with which you do things.

South:Well, everyone has their own company. We don't have to go through the hassle of getting permission from anyone. We just say, "Let's do it, let's do it," and if we can get a variety of people involved and have fun together, that's all that matters.

Westfield:If I let you sleep on it, you'd probably change your mind. That was quick, too. We gathered in the spring and sold them in the summer.

South:. I'm the kind of person who acts immediately when I have an idea. . It's a lot of work for the team around me, though (laughs).

INFORMATION

FreshService Headquarters

Address: Jingumae Fashion Building 1F, 2-6-7 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Phone: 03-5775-4755

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