FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Takayuki Fujii and Jun Takahashi. Non-native and Undercover. What is the narrative of this inevitable collaboration?
Portraits of Modern Japanese

Takayuki Fujii and Jun Takahashi. Non-native and Undercover.
What is the narrative of collaboration that is inevitable?

UNDERCOVER and NONNATIVE have long been leaders in the Japanese fashion scene. At first glance, it would seem that the two brands have little in common, but in fact, the designers of both brands, Jun Takahashi and Takayuki Fujii, have been quietly deepening their friendship for the past several years. And now, their friendship has culminated in a major achievement. The name of the collection is "OZISM. In other words, Ozu-ism. And the theme is "harmony. Why Ozu (Yasujiro) and why harmony? There was a narrative and context that could only be described as inevitable.

Mr. Fujii, you like collarless suits, don't you?

Fujii:Yes, I do. Basically, I am a puller. On the other hand, this switching was Jonio's idea.

The zips are also a distinctive feature.

Fujii:The first samue I made myself had Chinese buttons.

Takahashi:We also made a velcro type of this type for "the Shepherd," but in the end, I felt that it could not be worn without reducing the design elements. This one can be worn as a cardigan if you open the zipper, so it doesn't look like a samue.

Fujii:Since we envisioned the garment to be worn open, the front overlap became narrower and narrower.

Takahashi:A real samue would be more like tying a knot in the middle, but I don't think I could do that.

Fujii:Then you would have to close it all the time.

It's one that can be worn closed or open.

Fujii:Yes, I did. I think we were able to create that exquisite overlapping range.

Takahashi:The other thing is the balance of materials. I'm using nylon for the switch on the side, but I'm not sure where to put what and how much.

The names of both brands are lined up on the tag. Was this place also designed by Jonio?

Takahashi:Yes, I think it is. Don't do too many things, because if you design something new, you won't know what it is.

Fujii:In this way, there is a common denominator that they use a lot of n's and u's.

Takahashi:The other day, I worked with Toru (Nishiyama), who did the graphics. When I asked someone else to do it, they came up with a design that I would never have done myself, and that was quite refreshing.

Fujii:Toru-kun is good, isn't he?

Takahashi:Yes, Toru is a graphic genius. So when working with other companies, it is better to respect their logos so that we can create something interesting and the design fits the content.

Also, I think it was important for the two of you to share a similar style or silhouette in your daily lives.

Fujii:Yes, we are. We are about the same height.

BACK ZIP MIDDLE BOOTS
HORSE LEATHER by GUIDI ¥250,800

You also have in common that you wear "Guidi" on a regular basis.

Takahashi:Yes, I've actually been wearing them myself for a long time. Probably for about 10 years or so. So I had an image that "Guidi" would be the best to match with this set-up.

Fujii:There is no other designer who is as committed to "Guidi" as you are, Jonio. That was one of the reasons why we decided to make pants that would go well with boots.

Takahashi:With a few minor changes.

Fujii:Yes, I would. I'd put a key pocket on it and so on.

CLIMER EASY PANTS
POLY FLEECE POLATEC®️ WINDPRO®️ ¥41,580

Anyway, it looks very warm.

Takahashi:Yes, okay, this is good.

Fujii:The material is windproof, so that is where it comes in handy.

The rest of the lineup also includes coats.

INFORMATION

nonnative×UNDERCOVER

Release date: Saturday, December 10
special feature article

Stores handling
COVERCHORDNakameguro, vendor
UNDERCOVER AOYAMA, Shinjuku Isetan Men's, Hankyu Men's Tokyo, Hankyu Men's Osaka, Shinsaibashi Parco, Sendai, Kanazawa, Nagoya, Kyoto, UNDERCOVER NOISE LAB Shibuya PARCO,UNDERCOVER OFFICIAL ONLINESTORE