FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Takayuki Fujii and Jun Takahashi. Non-native and Undercover. What is the narrative of this inevitable collaboration?
Portraits of Modern Japanese

Takayuki Fujii and Jun Takahashi. Non-native and Undercover.
What is the narrative of collaboration that is inevitable?

UNDERCOVER and NONNATIVE have long been leaders in the Japanese fashion scene. At first glance, it would seem that the two brands have little in common, but in fact, the designers of both brands, Jun Takahashi and Takayuki Fujii, have been quietly deepening their friendship for the past several years. And now, their friendship has culminated in a major achievement. The name of the collection is "OZISM. In other words, Ozu-ism. And the theme is "harmony. Why Ozu (Yasujiro) and why harmony? There was a narrative and context that could only be described as inevitable.

MONK LONG COAT
POLY FLEECE POLATEC®️ WINDPRO®️
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Takahashi:. This is to be worn over a samue.

Fujii:The base is a stainless collar coat with a non-native collar, but I made it collarless and used "GORE-TEX INFINIUM™️". The major point is the zip on the side.

Takahashi:Isn't this convenient? . you can open it here so you can put your hands in your pants pockets when you walk around.

Fujii:We often use zippers instead of sight vents, but we have never raised them this high. I think this is a very "undercover" style.

I heard that you worked together for about a year on this project, which is rather slow compared to the normal process of product creation, isn't it?

Takahashi:Yes . But I had samples made many times during that time. However, this kind of pace of production would never be possible with my own brand, but I recognized the importance of taking the time to make each piece one by one.

Fujii:Yes, it is. Of course, there is the seasonal part, but the items in this issue could be released next year.

Takahashi:We are making a standard product that people will never get tired of, but in order for each design to be injected into the product, it is necessary to go through a number of trials and errors to make it work.

Do the two of you have similarities in what you are interested in?

Takahashi:. I don't know. . But since there was a theme this time, I think we may have shared some of the same ideas about what to cut out.

Fujii:Yes, I think so. And I think the feeling of what I like is actually close too.

Takahashi:That may be true , surprisingly.

Fujii:Mr. Jonio has his own worldview, but this time he expresses it in a different way. On the other hand, in my case, it is just as it is.

Takahashi:Yes, Fujii is getting to the bottom of this feeling. I myself originally really like this kind of thing. But I don't do it in my own brand. The things I usually wear are very ordinary things. You might have an image of punk or something like that, but I don't dress like that.

Fujii:Yes, that's true. . it's like "Shepherd" is your normal attire, isn't it?

. The more I hear about you two, the more I feel that you must be comfortable or at ease together.

Takahashi:They have very different personalities, but Fujii is very serious, and I can understand his attitude toward making things. I can understand, or at least feel at ease with, his approach to making things. Yes, that's the point. I told you that I have known your wife since I was a child, and I think you have chosen a good man.

Fujii:LOL!

Takahashi:Not from a parental perspective . . That may be a big part of it. Also, I think he is a decent person.

Fujii:Jonio, you are sensitive to such things, aren't you? His sensor for appropriate people is not half bad.

Takahashi:So, in that, I've passed the test so much. . I can tell a lot about how you are as a person by looking at how you spend your days. On the other hand, hobbies, such as what kind of clothes they wear and what kind of music they listen to, are not that important. If the two of you are not matched on a more humanistic level, I don't think a relationship will last very long. Of course, if our hobbies also match, it may be even easier to spend time together.

Fujii:Recently, Jonio is going to have a new base in Hayama, and it is interesting to hear about that. What kind of space will you make and what kind of furniture will you put there? .

. . you mean, not Akiya, right?

Takahashi:Yes . . As I went there, I strongly felt that I wanted to live in that area. . At first, I thought I would first go there for a year and then think about it, but after a year has passed, I am thinking more and more that this is the place. . When I count my life backwards, I think it's time to start thinking about where I will finally live.

That's a big decision.

Takahashi:Yes . So I am thinking a lot about whether moving there would be like commuting to Tokyo. . Anyway, it is a great place to live and to design. I've said it many times, but every time I go there, I think it is the best place to live. Tokyo may be convenient for living, but I have never felt that way. . I put those feelings into this sentence.

." The bottom line says "Made by land of rest".

Takahashi:I think of it as a "land of rest. In my mind, I think of Hayama and Kamakura as such a place. I would like to continue this project as much as possible, as it is a category that I have not worked in before.

Fujii:Yes, I agree. It would be nice if we could do it in a way that is not too business-based. . . However, there are some parts where we need to get a good response, of course.

Takahashi:. yes, I know. . but, you know, this is actually a pretty difficult item.

Fujii:. I'm not so sure. I'm getting a pretty good reaction from my friends around me. Like, "We've been waiting for you.

Takahashi:. I was very happy to hear that, and also thought it was surprising. But I'm wearing it with the top and bottom today, and I can wear it normally without feeling really uncomfortable, and I want everyone to wear it like this. It would be cool to have a group of grown men wearing a grass-dyed version of samue in the summer and drinking sake together.

I like that.

Takahashi:I do some painting, and I am thinking of doing pottery, and I would like to wear it when I do that. I think it would be cool to get all kinds of stains on it. Also, I think it would be easy to match with a hat, like today, or go to the beach with beeswax on.

Fujii:That's important. It's like putting on a coat of arms.

Takahashi:Yes, yes. And you can go out to eat without leaving it. So, what other items should we add to this samue? I thought it would be interesting to create items based on Ozu's "OZISM" worldview, taking into account the loose, everyday feel of the Hayama area. . Since each of us is different from what we usually make, we will work steadily.

Fujii:Yes . It's like building up.

Takahashi:Irregular, as appropriate .

I would say that it is a life's work, a life's product.

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Takahashi:But I think it would be more interesting to have a position that is not authentic .

Fujii:Yes, I'm not authentic . Authentic is something I don't do myself, surprisingly.

Takahashi:For example, there are people who make sweatshirts from thread. I really admire that kind of thing, but I think that what I make is a mixture of design and functionality. I don't think there is anything like that in the world. I would be most happy if such a mixture of design and functionality could spread to the people who wear the authentic clothes I mentioned earlier.

Fujii:As Jonio said, there are no clothes in the world that can be made in this shape and material before the collaboration. Then there is the context. The reason why this dress was created. I think there are people who agree with that. There are so many good clothes out there.

Takahashi:Men like that, don't they (laughs).

INFORMATION

nonnative×UNDERCOVER

Release date: Saturday, December 10
special feature article

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