. the philosophy that good things are born over a long period of time.
Next, is this one of the people you wanted to meet?
Kaneko:This is one of the people I wanted to meet specially. Her name is Eve Charlton, and she is a <HartfordHe is the president of a brand called "B.D. Shirts. I believe that he was the first person to arrange American B.D. shirts in the French style.
When we asked him about it, he told us that he had studied abroad in the U.S. when he was a university student and had launched "The Hartford" at that time, making B.D. shirts in fine corduroy in about 20 colors. And they were made in the U.S. I felt that there was a French way of thinking in the use of fine-ribbed corduroy.
I have Paris in the 80's and "Emissez Faire*" in my mind as the underlying theme of "Reshop," and it seems that this person used to make "Emissez Faire" shirts.
*Emis Faire / The boutique was founded in Paris in 1978. It offered a selection of classy, fine , and traditional clothing.
Kaneko:I was thinking of creating a brand under his name, rather than under the name "The Hartford. I suggested that if he had made his first collection in the U.S., why not make it in the U.S. again? I suggested, "If you made your first collection in the U.S., why don't you make another one in the U.S.?
Why is that?
Kaneko:This person has the philosophy that good things are born over a long period of time, and he was a bit taken aback by the speed with which such stories unfolded for the Japanese. I have also seen many historical items in England, so some of what he said made sense to me. I learned a lot when I heard that they still make shirts with fine corduroy ridges, and that they are particular about their craftsmanship. So, we talked about taking a long time to work on this project.
However, I was able to get their approval, saying, "If you are going to the U.S., just ask the factory. So I went to Hartford, bought a shirt that was close to my image, and took it to the U.S. But I will tell you more about that in the U.S. section.
This is a very high-end brand.
Kaneko:[Claire, this isCHAPALIt's a leather brand called "Mouton". They make driving shoes and mouton bags, etc. I used to deal with them when I worked at Edifice, but the prices have gone up so much that I gave up on them.
I see that "Lavenham" is still being photographed here as usual.
Kaneko:I take pictures whenever I have a chance (laughs). . and you also enjoy buying things in town.
Is this a vintage clothing store?
Kaneko:. this is the workwear store in town. Before.When I did "Weekend" in ParisI made a uniform for the "Reshop" and I came here again to make a uniform for the "Reshop" and I bought a bomb. I am now in the process of embroidering it. I can buy something similar in Japan, but I like the idea of coming here to buy it.
Kaneko-san's shopping Part 1
A shirt from "CHARVET" purchased at a thrift store. It is a fairly large size shirt. The CHARVET shirts are basically small, so I feel that the large size is only possible with secondhand clothing.
I found these M-47 shorts at a flea market near my hotel. I was determined to find something, even if it looked like there was absolutely nothing there, and that's what I did.
A pocket on the left chest that would hold a pen , and a regular sized pocket. He is determined to buy items with this detail. The item probably pre-dates the 50's. .
I see. Did you go to vintage clothing stores?
Kaneko:Of course I went there. It is a very long-established vintage clothing store called "Casablanca," which is the store I go to. I learned a lot from a woman from Africa, and I studied French work here. I also bought a lot of personal items.
Kaneko:I also bought this work shirt. It has no collar, has the "ESSO" logo on it for some reason, and has a gusset at the hem, making it quite interesting.
After this, he plans to visit Salvatore Piccolo and Luigi Borrelli in Italy, each of which has its own characteristics among Italian brands. But Salvatore Piccolo is not like that in a good sense, but I think the big point is that they can make anything with a sense of color.
I gave him this shirt and fantasized about what it would look like if Piccolo made it, even though it was workwear (laughs). (Laughs.) I later heard that Piccolo was very impressed that I brought this shirt to him. So, a Piccolo version of this shirt is now in the planning stage.
Is this the market?
Kaneko:This is a market in Paris. There was nothing to buy here at all (laughs). Overall, I found more vintage clothing in England. There were some bargains, but... . However, a relative of the older brother of the vintage clothing shop owner is in the French military, and there were a few items here and there that would never appear in the current market, such as a "GORE-TEX" camouflage jacket that he was selling on the side, so I bought a bunch of those items.
Kaneko-san's shopping Part 2
An item purchased at "Casablanca," which also appeared in the interview, and which is a store original, somewhere between a jacket and a gilet. He was attracted by its ambiguous feel.
Sulka's dress shirts are made to the highest standards of sewing and other workmanship, and are said to be impressive in any case. The fineness of the needlework is just superb," Kaneko said.
This cashmere cardigan is made in Scotland by Hilditch & Key of England. The V is quite deep, and the shape fits my current mood.
