FEATURE| What we know about this summer's shirt collars at Nano Universe.
Learn about this summer's shirt collars at Nano Universe.
The collar is the face of the shirt. Even a difference of a few millimeters can change the look of a shirt, and the difference directly affects the impression of the wearer's outfit. A new trend is emerging in the neck area. This is the open collar shirt, which in recent years has been out of the conversation of fashionable people. nano・universe" was quick to spot the signs of this next trend and is expanding its lineup. Buyer Yosuke Watanabe welcomes stylist Arata Kobayashi to discuss the shirts he wants to wear this summer.
From now on, open collars will come into play again.
This time, I would like to talk to both of you about open-necked shirts, which you used to wear a lot, right, Mr. Kobayashi?
Arata Kobayashi (hereafter Kobayashi)It may be quite a lot. However, I wore it the most when I was very young. I wore it in a masculine or delinquent way, as the world imagines. At that time. I would choose old work shirts without a collar that I could wear like an open-collared shirt.
But in my late 20s and early 30s, I felt a little too middle-aged to wear them. I had a longing for white open-collared shirts and such, but I guess my human nature had not caught up with me (laughs).
But now that I'm in my late 30s, I'm finally comfortable with something a little sexier. I think open-collared shirts are also a sexy item. To put it another way, it is an item that looks really cool when worn by old men or people like that.
I'm not quite there yet, of course, but I think I'm getting old enough to think it's okay to wear it. I'd like to wear it again now that it's back in popularity again. This year, I thought it would be okay to try aloha and floral patterns.
Arata Kobayashi (Stylist)
Do you remember the first time you wore an open-collared shirt, Mr. Watanabe?
Yosuke Watabe (hereafter Watabe)I was probably around 17 or 18 years old. I remember I wanted a bowling shirt, so I looked for one at a thrift store and bought it. After that, I started to like the smell of something a little more badass, so I started wearing things with patterns and embroidery. It was also because I liked ska.
I also used to wear aloha under my suits. After that, I liked westerns, and even jackets with designs similar to the open-collared collars of the 50s.
I was looking at the store and it seemed like there were more open collar shirts than usual for spring/summer, is there actually an increase?
going to (e.g. the police)There has been an overwhelming increase. Until last year, shirts with band collars or collarless collars were more popular. However, open-collared shirts are starting to gain popularity again, and since I myself am a professional, I want to wear them (laugh), so I have personally purchased several shirts.
I will turn 34 this year, and I am looking at the trends of the younger generation, as well as some of the roots of the older generation. I even pulled out a shirt with an open collar that I bought about five years ago and started wearing it again.
Yosuke Watanabe (Buyer, Nano Universe)
As you mentioned earlier, until now, open-necked shirts have tended to be masculine in design, but looking at the lineup that you both wore today, there are quite a few variations this year.
going to (e.g. the police)I think so. Another difference from the past is that in the past, it was normal to wear a shirt exactly the same size as before, but it is interesting to note that oversized shirts are now also acceptable. The shirt I am wearing today is also one size larger. I think there are so many choices in materials, from rayon with a relaxed feel to cool linen.
Many collection brands are also releasing shirts, and in fact, it was a Comme des Garçons shirt that inspired me to start wearing open-collared shirts after a long time. So, I feel that I can wear them with a mode style now.
Mr. Kobayashi, have you changed how often you use open-necked shirts in your styling?
KobayashiTo be honest, until not too long ago, there was very little to go around. To begin with, there wasn't much variety when I went to leasing. But with this current trend, it's increasing rapidly, and I'm sure we'll see more and more styling opportunities in the future.
Various stores are starting to focus on it, and when I go to a lease and see a bowling shirt, I say to myself, "Wow, that brings back memories" (laughs). (Laughs.) But when you think about it that way, the resurgence may have been surprisingly quick.
going to (e.g. the police)It was probably about seven or eight years ago. Shirts with chain stitches on the chest and open collared shirts with large embroidery on the back were all the rage.
KobayashiYes, it is. But I feel that the fashion trend this time is different from that time. I feel that more elegant items are becoming the mainstream rather than rugged items.
The open-collared shirt is an elegant item, after all.
KobayashiThat's right. It can be worn inside a set-up, and on the other hand, a pure white linen long-sleeved open-collared shirt can be worn at weddings and funerals overseas. Come to think of it, Ryan Gosling wore one in the movie "La La Land. Ryan Gosling wore it in the movie "La La Land.
going to (e.g. the police)(Laughter)
You were wearing it. I mean, you were watching the movie (laughs).
KobayashiI watched it on a moving plane. But seriously, I think there is a worldwide trend. Last year, Saint Laurent also introduced open-collared shirts. It is a trend of elegant shirts rather than rugged shirts, isn't it?
going to (e.g. the police)For this project, we have also made several types of shirts by special order from brands that make classic shirts, such as Gitman Brothers. The base material was the same, but we specified the shape and silhouette of the collar, and made an open collar. Even the casual designs have a clean look that only a shirt maker can achieve.
What are you conscious of when wearing open-collared shirts now?
KobayashiHmmm, maybe it's the wrinkles? If I'm going to wear it this year, I think it's okay to wear it so tightly that the glue is effective. I also like crumpled old clothes, but if I were to buy more this year, I would prefer something beautiful. I think the material would be rayon or linen.
Mr. Kobayashi likes linen, doesn't he?
KobayashiWhat can I say, if you wear a short-sleeved shirt in summer and it's too hot, I think it's pointless (laughs). So, even though it is trendy, I always emphasize practicality. When I go abroad, I always take a long-sleeved linen shirt with me.
going to (e.g. the police)I see.
KobayashiWhen you go abroad to a nice restaurant, it's hot when you're wearing a crisp shirt (laughs). But if you have a linen shirt with an open collar, that's all you need. It dries quickly, so if I wash it and hang it in my room, it will be dry the next day. I often wear it neatly pressed. That's why I think of Ryan Gosling. What is your role model for how to dress?
going to (e.g. the police)La La Land," you're really into it (laughs).
KobayashiI don't remember how he wore it (laughs). I don't remember how he dressed (laughs).
Shin Kobayashi(Photo right) Stylist, born in 1978 in Kanagawa Prefecture, has been active in men's fashion magazines and advertising visuals since becoming independent in 2006, and has styled many actors and artists. He was also in charge of the styling for the tabloid edition of "Nano Universe," which is currently being distributed in stores. He is currently looking for an assistant. For more information, please contactUnited LoungeUp to.
Yosuke Watanabe(Photo left) ."Born in Hokkaido in 1983, he was exposed to a wide range of fashion from his teenage years, including collection brands and vintage clothing, and after graduating from a fashion college, he worked as a staff member at a certain mode select store. After graduating from fashion college, he worked as a staff member at a certain mode select shop. He later joined "Nano Universe" and has been working as a buyer since 2012. He has a reputation for his wealth of information on fashion and his sense of smell for trends.
."The olive shirt is seersucker, and the moment I put my sleeves on it, I was first surprised by its lightness. It feels light and comfortable when I put it on. I used to think the white pants I paired with it were a little harsh, but like the open-necked shirt, I've come to think of them as an item I can wear as I get older.
."I dare to wear long sleeves. I think it would be cool to wear it in midsummer with the sleeves rolled up. I paired it with striped "Umit Benin" easy pants to evoke a resort setting. I wore sneakers with the same white color as the shirt for a clean look. I like Panama hats." ¥7,900 + tax
."The vintage Levi's® 501®XX was worn with a blue check shirt in the same color as the vintage Levi's® 501®XX. The soft texture of cotton rayon is also a key point. I chose a slightly larger size and would have rolled up the sleeves in the past, but this is about the length I'm in the mood for now.
."This is a young Australian brand called "Double Rainbow," which has only been around for about two years. Slim black denim is my standard, and I am personally attracted to patterns and colors that go well with it. I added the hem of the shirt for a more modern look.
."This is my favorite Cuban shirt this time around. The fabric is said to be typewriter cloth, and it is really comfortable and pleasant to the touch. It also goes well with lightweight cargo pants. When I go abroad in the summer, I want to go to a steakhouse with this shirt pressed and only the bottom changed to shorts (laughs).
."This is a classic bowling shirt in cotton rayon. Stylist Keisuke Baba and Masashi Watanabe of "Bedouin and the Heartbreakers" made this shirt with the image of the 50s in mind. With this background in mind, I tried to give it a classic bad boy look in the styling as well.
Denim shirts, which are a staple of B.D. shirts, give a completely different impression when worn with an open collar and box silhouette. The moderately residual color and the weak bite give the shirt a retro look, just like old clothes. 7,900 yen + tax
This piece has a modern balance with a wide body and slightly sloping shoulders, enhanced by the soft and falling fabric. The fresh blue checkered pattern is arranged in light tones so that it is not too assertive, which is sophisticated. 7,600 yen + tax
The basic design is made of standard rayon material, but the solid-color, black design is for adults, which is unlikely to be the case. It matches with a variety of bottoms, from slacks to shorts. 7,600 yen + tax
