Florence is located in Tuscany, in the midwestern part of Italy. HOUYHNHNM's covered the 90th edition of the trade show, which was held from June 14 to 17, for the first time. We report on the more than 1,000 brands, from the newest to the oldest, that took part in the show. In the latter half of the report, we also take a closer look at the activities of the select store "BEAMS" at Pitti Immagine Uomo.
Florence's city center is registered as a World Heritage site. It was in February 1972 that the first "Pitti Immagine Uomo" was held in this place, which is characterized by its town planning that makes use of historical buildings without any modern buildings. The event was held at a hotel in the city with 43 stalls and 526 buyers. Since then, the scale of the event has gradually expanded. In recent years, the main venue has been Fortezza Basso, one of Florence's most famous landmarks, built in 1537.
The 90th edition is backed by the Italian Ministry of Economic Development and the Trade Promotion Section of the Italian Embassy. Pitti" has grown into an important trade fair for Italy, where apparel is one of the main industries. As a result, 20,500 buyers from all over the world visited the fair this year, and the total number of visitors reached approximately 30,000. Florence is filled with people during the fair, and it plays a major role in promoting the city as a whole to foreign countries.
The Pitti Immagine Uomo is organized into 15 sections. Starting with the main pavilion featuring sartoria, which is synonymous with "Pitti," more than 1,200 brands will exhibit casual wear, sportswear, bags, shoes, eyewear, fragrances, and more. In the past, formal wear brands and manufacturers of small leather goods were the mainstream, but in recent years, with the global trend toward casual wear, nearly half of all brands exhibiting at the show are from the sports and street fashion tastes. In addition, Raf Simons, Gosha Rubchinskiy, and Bizbim held runway shows as special events this year, attracting a great deal of attention.
Snapshots of the must-see "Pitti" venue!
Designers, buyers, journalists, and others involved in the fashion industry gather at Pitti Immagine Uomo from around the world. Among them, we picked up nine fashionably dressed designers who seem to predict future trends. The traditional suit style typical of "Pitti" is particularly impressive, but this year, slacks worn high-waisted with side adjusters or suspenders are fresh. Perhaps a reaction to the recent trend toward casual wear, the traditional style was especially noticeable.
Lardini also produces clothes for famous fashion houses.
Established in 1978[Claire] Lardini!The company is also known as one of the best suit makers in Italy. It is also known as one of the best suit factories in Italy, having worked with major maisons for many years. At "Pitti", in addition to authentic suits, unique designs were also on display. Items that defy conventional thinking, such as bold fabric changes and short-sleeved jackets, are also on display.
Up-and-coming London brand "Story mfg.
[STORY mfg.is characterized by items inspired by vintage workwear. One of their concepts is "Slow Made," and they are particular about the way they use natural dyes to produce their colors. In Japan, the brand is sold at "Reshop" in Minami Aoyama, Tokyo, and other stores. The left photo shows a thick corduroy coverall with blue buttons as an accent. On the right are designers Bobbin and Katie.
Norwegian Rain is a Scandinavian brand of raincoats.
I interviewed him in HOUYHNHNM last year.Norwegian Rain.The designer in the photo, T-Michael, is a raincoat maker. Designer T-Michael, pictured here, uses his past experience as a bespoke tailor to make mainly raincoats. The coat on the right in the photo is one that can be used for cycling. It has a classic look but is made of waterproof material, and slits in the sleeves and shoulders are designed with breathability in mind.
Herno's collection using new materials.
The famous Italian brand of outerwear.[Claire] Herno!The "Laminar" series, with its modern design using functional materials, has been selling well. The "Laminar" series, a modern design using functional materials, has been selling well and has grown to account for about half of the brand's total sales. The newest addition to the series is the "Herno Thermo Stretch" down jacket. The down jacket named "Herno Thermo Stretch" uses windproof and stretchable padding. The stretch jersey is used without quilting, making the item comfortable and easy to move in.
Many brands of casual shoes will also be exhibited.
"Pitti" is dominated by sports and casual brands, which make up about half of the show. Here are some of the sneakers that caught my attention. In the upper left of the photo[Claire] Clarks!presents a luxurious line of Italian-made shoes. The leather is tanned with vegetable tannin. Below left is Sydney'sFEIT.The "M" is a beautiful, handmade, minimalistic looking product. Handmade with a minimalist look that could be described as extreme, it is beautiful. On the right is an AmericanClae.The newest addition to our line of products is the new "Corso". Made of fine Italian leather in exquisite, fresh colors.
A collection of photographs by Ari Markopolos for Gucci.
During the "Pitti" exhibition, a representative archive of the past will be exhibited and housed.Gucci Museo.The presentation of a limited-quantity photo book shot by Ali Markopolos at the The book was made from photos taken in Milan for the lookbook of the Pre-Fall 2016 collection. Marcopolos himself visited the event and signed the book for each and every person who purchased it.
The first major exhibition of Karl Lagerfeld's photographs.
The Pitti Palace, one of Florence's most famous palaces, hosted the photography exhibition "KARL LAGERFELD - Visions of Fashion". This is the first exhibition focusing on Karl Lagerfeld's career as a photographer, and is a rare opportunity to see about 200 of his works to date, including unpublished ones, all in one place. The exhibition is curated by Gerhard Steidel and Eric Flander. Lagerfeld himself will attend the opening reception. The exhibition will run through October 23.
Bizbim" held its first runway show.
New works have been presented in the form of presentations.Bizbim!held a runway show for the first time. The collection was based on American workwear, which is the origin of "bizbim," and was interwoven with Japanese elements in men's and women's clothing. Twelve male and female performers with charming, aged looks stepped on the runway to the music, creating a lot of excitement at the show.
Gosha Rabchinsky" attempted to fuse Italy and Russia.
One of the hottest up-and-coming brands in recent yearsGosha, Rabchinsky.The first "Pitti" collection was inspired by the life of Italian film director Pier Paolo Pasolini and his film "Acquatone. The collection at "Pitti" for the first time depicted the fusion of Italy and Russia, inspired by the life of Italian film director Pier Paolo Pasolini and his film "Acquatone". The venue was an abandoned tobacco factory that Gosha says "felt very Russian." The 30 models were young people from various regions, including Russia, Finland, and California. At a press conference the day before the show, Gosha said, "There are no major changes in the clothes from the past, but young people living in every country have the same mentality. I want to express what I feel for today's teenagers in terms of fashion.
Raf Simons' collection, decorated with Mapplethorpe's photographic works.
Six years after presenting a runway show at Jil Sander, Raf Simons returns to "Pitti. Raf Simons is back at Pitti. The Spring/Summer 2017 collection presented at the show centered on clothing that boldly used the work of photographer Robert Mapplethorpe. Simmons checked out all of his work and wanted to create a collection that would help the public understand Mapplethorpe's work. For an interview with Raf Simons at "Pitti."Introduced here.
Beams guides you to "Pitti Immagine Uomo" and Florence.
In recent years, BEAMS has been participating in "Pitti" with a large number of staff members, especially among Japanese boutiques. This report explores the reasons for this and introduces the business meetings held at "Pitti". In the latter half of the article, a guide to the city of Florence recommended by the BEAMS staff is also included.
From left to right: Shuhei Nishiguchi (Director, BEAMS F), Shuhei Yoshida (Dress Diretor, BEAMS), Tatsuya Nakamura (Creative Director, BEAMS), Hiroshi Shitara (President, BEAMS), Hiroshi Kubo (Creative Director, BEAMS), Hiroshi Doichi (Communications Director, BEAMS), Kazuhiko Muto (Director, Brilla per il Gusto), Tomoka Takada (Buyer, BEAMS), Toshihiro Yasutake (Press, BEAMS) Communication Director), Kazuhiko Muto (Director, Brilla per il Gusto), Tomoka Takada (Buyer, Brilla per il Gusto), Toshihiro Yasutake (BEAMS Press)
Why Beams goes to "Pitti".
During our coverage of Pitti Immagine Uomo, we saw many Japanese buyers. The number of buyers who visited "Pitti" during the show was 20,500. The number of Japanese buyers who visited "Pitti" during the period was 20,500, with 847 coming from Japan, second only to Germany, which ranked first. Among the buyers, it can be said that BEAMS is the one that puts the most effort into the "Pitti" show. Mr. Yasutake, a member of the press, said, "Each time, 10 to 15 staff members visit the show, divided into 3 to 4 groups, including casual and dress. Recently, we have also sent three people selected from our nationwide staff to accompany the staff in order to show them what it is like to be on site.
The main purpose of going to "Pitti" is to understand trends. There is a full range from dress to casual wear, and there is a sense of reality. When it comes to the fashion market, sometimes there is no reality. But at "Pitti," there are many brands that take the latest trends and incorporate them into the market, focusing on real clothes for adults.
From the perspective of identifying trends, BEAMS hires its own photographers to take local snapshots. This is an experiment that no other boutique has attempted. We take snapshots and our press and buyers compile them. The trends we find in the snaps are often used for buying.
The longest time participant in "Pitti" at BEAMS is Creative Director Tatsuya Nakamura. Nakamura oversees the dress department and has been going since he was 28 years old.His blogis popular and is not updated that often, but has a PV of 300,000-400,000 per month! The site explains in detail about "Pitti" with pictures. If you are interested, please check it out.
A must-see! The "Pitti" style of three of BEAMS' leading designers.
What kind of clothes do the BEAMS staff wear to "Pitti"? This time, we pick up the coordination of Shuhei Nishiguchi, Tomoka Takada, and Toshihiro Yasutake, who are especially well known for their stylishness. Their outfits ooze their passion for clothes. Yasutake's commentary is also included.
Shuhei Nishiguchi (Director, BEAMS F)
DAY 1 (photo left): Isn't Nishiguchi "the most snapped man at Pitti?" He always appears on the snapshots site. On the first day, he appeared in a cotton suit. It is only Nishiguchi who can easily pull off a beige and black look that is not often seen in the world of classics. In fact, the body of the shirt has a floral pattern. This is a challenge that is only possible because only a small area of the body of the shirt is visible. (STILE LATINO suit, GITMAN BROTHERS shirt, Borsalino hat, ALDEN shoes)
DAY 2 (middle photo) : This day is a mix of tailored and vintage. The color bar is going to be a must-have item for the next season. It can be worn with either suits or jackets. The footwear is vintage "Grenson". The combination of leather and woven fabric goes well with the beige tone of the jacket style. I want a pair, too. Jacket by STILE LATINO, vest by LARDINI, shirt by GITMAN BROTHERS, tie and pants by RALPH LAUREN, hat by BORSALINO, and a pair of jeans by RALPH LAUREN. Borsalino hats, GRENSON shoes
DAY 3 (Photo right): The west exit was pretty snapped up on this day, too. The jacket is made of denim. It is something I gave up on commercializing because of the color migration. The reason I tailor my own jackets before commercializing them is because I don't want to make my customers feel uncomfortable. And the leather suspenders hanging down! This is the key to coordination. It's a bit difficult to do, though (laughs). STILE LATINO jacket, vintage shirt, RALPH LAUREN pants and suspenders, Borsalino hat, FILSON bag, Crockett & Jones （Crockett & Jones shoes
DAY 1 (photo left): Setup in the hottest "terracotta" color for Spring/Summer 2017. Shirt is tab collar and knit tie. The gilet is made of soccer material. This material will also appear in large numbers in the next spring/summer season. Since the suit is brown in color, it tends to bring the same color on the feet, but here we dare to use black shoes. The use of black in other accessories makes it easy to match. MP di MASSIMO PIOMBO suit, GIANNETTO gilet, Brilla per il gusto shirt, BEAMS PLUS tie, Borsalino hat, and Borsalino leather jacket. Borsalino hat, CISEI bag, Alden shoes
DAY 2 (middle photo)The summer tweed-style white jacket with a retro polo shirt and pleated pants. It may sound ordinary when written like this, but Takada's style is to add flavor from this point on. A scarf is worn around the neck of the polo shirt with the collar turned out, adding a touch of elegance. The cassock is worn backwards to express a rough look. The bottom is a pair of Gurkha pants. I was allowed to carry a [Pokitto] bag, but it is very heavy. ...... I have to be patient with fashion (laughs). I have an ERNESTO jacket, a JOHN SMEDLEY polo shirt, a vintage scarf, KENNETH FIELD pants, a HANNA HATS cassock, a POKIT bag, and a POKIT bag. POKIT bag, BEAMS PLUS shoes
DAY 3 (photo on the right)The jacquard jacket in navy or blue on a white background was worn with blue pants and a short-sleeved sweatshirt as an inner layer. V-gusseted pieces were also seen at the "Pitti" show. Voluminous superstars on the feet are in style right now. Jacket and pants by THE GIGI, sweatshirt by Brilla per il gusto, bag by CISEI, sneakers by adidas
DAY 1 (photo left)The double jacket is closed at the top and worn with a retro polo shirt for a nadir look. The large silk scarf, which I added because it lacked color, should be draped rather than wrapped around the body! Wrapping it around you makes it too hot. Also, suspenders, which have been a hot item this season, were very popular at the event. Jackets by THE GIGI, polo shirts by JOHN SMEDLEY, jeans by AMI ALEXANDLE MATTIUSSI, scarves by ROHKA, and suspenders by PHINGERIN suspenders, Hervé Chapelier bags, ALDEN shoes
DAY 2 (middle photo): Light gray is the color of the day. The shirt blouson was open at the front to emphasize the relaxed look. I felt somewhat lonely, so I put a silk scarf around my neck. I thought the blue-green color would go well with the light gray. The camera strap is "YOSEMITE STRAP" by EPM JAPAN. It is a climbing rope made into a camera strap. Jacket by MAISON FLANEUR, knitwear by BEAMS, pants by GTA DESIGN, glasses by THOM BROWN, bag by LOEWE, shoes by Alden ALDEN shoes
DAY 3 (photo on the right)The African-inspired shirt jacket with a safari shirt as an inner layer. Ethnic patterns tend to be gaudy, but by combining them in monotone (although khaki is included, see ......), a more mature style can be achieved. Jacket by MONITARY, shirt by VAPORIZE, jeans by Levi's®, hat by NICHOLAS DALEY, suspenders by PHINGERIN, and a pair of jeans by Giacometti Fratelli. GIACOMETTI" shoes, "Fratelli Giacometti" shoes, "Levi's®" jeans, "Nicholas Daley®" hats, "FINGERIN®" suspenders, and "F LLI.
A scene from the business meeting at "Pitti" at BEAMS.
There is no other opportunity like "Pitti" where you can see clothes of various brands from all over the world at the same place at the same time. It is also a valuable place to talk directly with the brands. Mr. Yasutake, a member of the press, told us the percentage of brands that BEAMS looks at. Beams F is mainly dresswear, with about 30-40% casual wear. Brilla per il Gusto is a little more casual. BEAMS PLUS buys very few Italian brand dresses, so we look mainly at casuals," he said.
However, he says he rarely orders clothes at "Pitti. I look at the brands I am interested in one by one to get an idea of the season's creations and overall trends. I often place an order at a showroom in Milan after requesting fabrics and modifying details to suit the Japanese market from the brands I have my eye on. If a decision cannot be made on the spot, he sometimes has the brand make or send a sample for modification in time for an exhibition in Japan, and he will work until he is satisfied with the result. The photo above shows Tatsuya Nakamura, creative director of BEAMS (middle), and Shuhei Nishiguchi, director of BEAMS F (right).
Beams guides you to the best spots in Florence.
Toshihiro Yasutake (BEAMS Press) Trattoria Armando
Every time I arrive in Florence, I have dinner here on the night I arrive. The pasta in tomato sauce with garlic and chili peppers is delicious! And they have Japanese staff, so you don't have to worry."
Hours: 12:15 - 14:30, 19:15 - 22:30 Closed on Sunday, dinner only on Monday
Address: Borgo Ognissanti 140/R 50123 Firenze Italia
Phone: +39 055 217263 www.trattoria-armando.com
Left: Shuhei Yoshida (Dress Director of BEAMS) PROCACCI
'I can eat truffle butter bread. Delicious!"
Business hours: 10:00 - 21:00 (11:00 - 20:00 on Sundays)
Address: Via Tornabuoni, 64/R 50123 Firenze Italia
Phone: +39 055 211656 www.procacci1885.it
Middle: Tatsuya Nakamura (Creative Director, BEAMS) OLD ENGLAND STORE
An Italian acquaintance of mine told me that there were British deadstock fabrics for sale, so I checked them out 15 years ago. I heard from an Italian friend of mine that they sell British deadstock fabrics, so I checked it out 15 years ago. They sell a wide range of goods, not only Western-style goods, but also miscellaneous goods and foodstuffs.
Hours: 9:30 - 19:30 (10:00 on Sundays)
Address: Via Vecchietti, 28/R 50121 Firenze Italia
Phone: +39 055 211983 www.facebook.com/oldenglandstores
Photo right: Kazuhiko Mutoh (Director, Brilla per il Gusto) Fratelli Zanobini
I always have aperitivo at this wine shop on my way home from Pitti's. The selection is good and varied. The selection is good and varied."
Address: Via Sant'Antonino 47/R 50123 Firenze Italia
Phone: +39 055 2396850
TRATTORIA Sostanza
Every time I visit Florence, I always go to this trattoria at least twice. The "Pollo Arbullo," a tender chicken breast slowly buttered, is a special dish here.
Hours: 12:30 - 14:00, 19:30 - 22:45 Closed Saturday and Sunday
Address: Via Del Porcellana 25/R 50123 Firenze Italia
Phone: +39 055 212691
Extra: HOUYHNHNM Editors Trattria PANDEMONIO
When I decided to visit Florence, I immediately asked Mr. Shoichiro Higase, owner of the Italian restaurant LIFE, for local information. He had spent his apprenticeship in Florence, so he knew of a great restaurant that I was convinced of. Mr. Aiba's old friend was working in the kitchen, and it was kind of inspiring!"
Address: Via Dei Leone 50/R 50124 Firenze Italia
Phone: +39 055 224002 www.trattoriapandemonio.it
