FEATURE | TIE UP

Translated By DeepL

What is the "line" that creates functional beauty? The driving force behind Anfilo reveals what goes on behind the scenes.
BEHIND THE STORY : UNFILO

What is the "line" that creates functional beauty?
The leading figure of Anfilo reveals,
Behind the scenes of clothes making.

It moves. Functional beauty for all. With this phrase as its concept, UNFILO focuses on functionality and design. How is it possible to create clothes that give expression not only to the standing figure but also to the moving figure? In this interview, we take a closer look at the creations of the designer, Masato Koyama, who is the driving force behind this concept. Our guest is Kazuki Namiki, a fan of Mr. Koyama's brand "HEUGN" and owner of the hair salon "CASI" in Nakameguro, Tokyo, who will give us a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of "UNFILO" clothes from the perspective of a fashion lover.

  • Photo_Koji Honda
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Masaya Umiyama,. Ryo Muramatsu

PROFILE

Masato Koyama
Photo left

In 2018, he established IDEAS LLC. The following year, he launched his own brand "Jugen". In 2010, he became a men's designer for "Anfilo".
instagram: @masatokoyama7, @ideas.design_studio, @heugn_official

PROFILE

Kazuki Namiki
Photo right

After working as the manager of the popular Harajuku salon "BRIDGE," he opened his own salon "CASI" in Nakameguro. While working as a hair stylist, he actively shares information on fashion and beauty as well as his own lifestyle on his Youtube channel "NAMIKAZU.
instagram: @casi_namiki
Youtube:@NAMIKAZU

I want to draw the design in detail.

First of all, please tell us what kind of brand "Anfilo" is.

Small mountain: It is a brand based on the concept of "Move. Functional beauty for all" is the concept of the brand, and the fabrics are made of functional materials. We are conscious of creating clothes that make the wearer shine, placing emphasis on how beautifully they can be tailored. Rather than sporty clothes, we focus on ease of movement and beautiful silhouettes.

This is your first time seeing Anfilo's clothes, isn't it?

Row of trees: Yes, it is. A quick glance at the clothes showed that they were not just functional.

You like Mr. Koyama's brand "Jugen," don't you?

Row of trees: That's right. I felt that Koyama's clothes have a kind of male aesthetic, and I felt that it has something in common with "Anfilo" as well.

Small mountain: I have always liked that kind of clothing. I like historical brands such as Mackintosh and Babur, and clothes that have a sense of product. Such clothes may be inconvenient in the modern world, but they are cool when worn. Perhaps I have a longing for that kind of masculinity. That is why I want to add that kind of flavor to the clothes I make. I think about the overall form, of course, but also the shape of the collar and other details in a very precise manner.

It's what we call the "trad" world, isn't it?

Small mountain: My previous job was at a company that emphasized the basic essence of such men's clothing. I learned a lot there. I learned a lot about dress, military, traditional, work, and many other genres of clothing from the basics.

Koyama-san, I think your clothes are really detailed and precise. You have been exposed to a wide variety of clothes, and this has been put to good use.

Small mountain: Yes, that's right. In my case, it may be a little unusual, but I like to draw designs in detail. I think pattern makers don't like it very much (laughs). (Laughs.) By doing so, I am breaking down the appeal of the clothes. If I don't do that, I can't express the goodness of the garment. That's why I order in detail, such as "how many millimeters for the stitches" and so on.

Row of trees: Earlier, I was allowed to try on various toile (prototypes made from temporary fabrics before commercialization), and among them, the shirt had a beautiful silhouette even when the sleeves were rolled up. I thought that was the charm of the clothes you make. Whether traditional, military, or work, they are classic, yet somehow modern. That's what makes them so great.

Small mountain: At the root of my craftsmanship is the idea of how to create something modern by drawing inspiration from old things. I believe that "Anfilo" is also filled with this concept. However, I don't think it should be too classic, too military, or too new. Our idea at "Anfilo" is to create modern clothes while maintaining a sense of distance that makes it easy for customers to pick them up.

INFORMATION

Onward Kashiyama

Phone: 03-5476-5811
Official Site

A giveaway campaign is underway on Instagram until May 21 (Sun.). For details, please visit the official account (@)unfilo_men_official(check)!

The products listed in this article can be found here!

Related Articles#UNFILO

See more