FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Yataro Matsuura and Keiji Kaneko talk about fashion, self-consciousness, and greed in a special conversation. Part 2
Yataro Matsuura × Keiji Kaneko

The Clothesless Handbook: A Special Conversation
Yataro Matsuura and Keiji Kaneko speak,
Fashion, self-consciousness, and greed. Part 2

Continuing from the first part, we present a conversation between essayist Yataro Matsuura and Mr. Keiji Kaneko. When two people who have so much to say about things get together and talk, the question naturally becomes, "What should we make? And so the question becomes, "What should we make? Now, what kind of items will they come up with? This is a long and drawn-out conversation, but please read to the end.

  • Photo_Shota Matsumoto
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

People who choose their socks and underwear properly are fashionable.

Matsuura: I would like to know more about Kaneko's clothing.

Kaneko: My only 30-year player is this striped cut-and-sew.

Matsuura: I have this one too.

Is it SAINT JAMES?

Kaneko: Yes, I got it when I was about 18 or 19.

Matsuura: Wasn't it difficult to buy "St. James" back then? Not many stores sold it, right?

Kaneko: It was a tough time. It all started when I read "10-year player's story" by Toshiyuki Sai (Note: Representative of Rhino Corporation, which operates HOUYHNHNM's), which was serialized in "Biggin" magazine. It featured a white-and-blue-striped cut-and-sewn garment, and I admired it so much that I looked around for it at various stores. I wanted to surpass Mr. Tsai's 10 years, so of course I wore it outside, but I also wore it as sleepwear.

It was a size too big for me at the time, but now that I am older, it fits me just right. As Mr. Matsuura says, I am very attached to these clothes, and although they are no longer useful as cut-and-sewns, they are one of the items I cannot part with.

Matsuura: When I go abroad, I always bring one of these with me. Is the knit you are wearing now a new one?

Kaneko: That's right. Last year, I went on an overseas business trip for the first time in a long time. When I was purchasing domestically at Corona Disaster, I often collaborated with domestic manufacturers and brands. So, I was trying my best to make products that exceeded the quality of imports. But when I went overseas and looked at various things, I found that the quality was definitely better in Japan, but there was something exciting about it. So I bought all kinds of things. This is one of them.

Matsuura: The shape is kind of current.

Kaneko: This is a casual line of clothing from a tailor brand called "Anderson & Sheppard" on Saville Row. The material is cotton for spring, but it is made in Scotland.

Matsuura: The shoulder construction is generous and looks easy to wear.

Kaneko: Yes, it does have a bit of a modern feel to it. They are made a little looser than the classic ones, and the length is a little longer because they are for the Western market. It doesn't fit my body type, but I am attracted to it as a product, so I try to wear it in various ways. I like that way of enjoying fashion.

So you manage to do this through your dressing skills.

Kaneko: I make things in Japan in a way that makes them look cool for Japanese people. I do it because I think it is a good thing to do so, but the things that I am personally attracted to tend to be somewhat distorted. This is what I realized after the Corona Disaster. I try my best to make things that are difficult to wear wear wearable. I hope that this leads to the mood of the clothes.

Matsuura: Is the shirt "LE"?

Kaneko: This is from Paul Harnden. I have been wearing this for more than 10 years. Edifice started carrying it early on, but it didn't sell at all (laughs).

Matsuura: Paul Harden's shirts were a shock to me. I have one myself, and it has a crafty feel to it, as if it were made by hand.

Kaneko: I've worn many different shirts, and this one is unbalanced. But there is a part of me that is okay with that. I keep wearing it, thinking that if I wear it down, it will look good on me someday.

Matsuura: Which are the pants?

Kaneko: This is from a denim shop in Bishu, Aichi Prefecture. The name of the store is "Oe Clothing Store.

Matsuura: Order?

Kaneko: No, they are mass-produced items. These jeans were made in collaboration with a man who really only thinks about denim from morning to night, and a vintage clothing shop called "mitsuru" in Nagoya. The other day, I was wearing them as my favorite item.Introduced the "501®XX."The original silhouette is a little bit fussy, but this one is made one size smaller in the waist. The original silhouette is a little bit fussy, but this one is made one size smaller in the waist. So it is a little slimmer. I also like the fact that the tapered shape is not too tight and can be worn straight.

Matsuura: Straight, that's good.

Kaneko: While many silhouettes that are claimed to be straight are in fact tapered, these are truly straight. That's why it goes with everything, whether it's sneakers or leather shoes.

I also visited Mr. Oe's workshop and talked with him for about half a day, which made my feelings for him much stronger. So, it was different from just buying the product.

Matsuura: Black denim is cool.

Kaneko: I also have indigo, but lately I've been thinking about black. Indigo has a strong work color, but black has a stronger fashion aspect. It's easy to wear them anywhere around town.

Matsuura: Shoes?

Kaneko: These are handmade shoes by a Viennese brand called "Materna. I had been admiring this brand for a long time, but there was no place where I could buy them. I happened to find a used pair in Japan, and when I tried them on, they fit perfectly. They are the most perfect-fitting shoes I own.

Matsuura: The combination of black leather shoes and white socks is cool.

Kaneko: I'm meeting Ms. Matsuura today, and I decided to wear white socks to make it look a little cleaner.

Matsuura: I love the fact that it is white instead of black or gray.

Kaneko: These are from a British brand called Pantherella, and I often wear long-hose socks. They are dress socks, so they are not hot in the summer, and I don't like them to slip down. I don't like them to slip down. I like them to be snug and comfortable. The ones I'm wearing now are a different model, and they come down, but they fit just the right length. I like the way they slide on when I put them on.

Matsuura: Isn't it difficult to choose socks?

Kaneko: I buy socks all the time. I have a box full of socks that are still in use. Many of them are made in England, and I have a lot of "Corgi" socks, but they keep slipping down.

Matsuura: I'm wearing a pair of "corgis" today, too, and it's the same thing. The only thing that bothers me is socks. I'm not sure which ones to wear.

Kaneko: Is it the color, the thickness, the weave, or both?

Matsuura: Basically, I get nervous if they don't have the right thickness. Socks are not something you can see, and if you want to go cheap, you can easily do so. However, I think that people who choose and wear them properly are probably fashionable. It is the same with underwear. I try to choose "Corgi" as much as possible, but it's not easy to find them, so I try to buy them when I find them.

Kaneko: Corgi can do custom orders, so if there is anything we can do, I would like to work with them.

Matsuura: I am concerned about the fact that it is loose and falls down, but I feel that if this is fixed, it will no longer be a "corgi" (laughs).

Kaneko: Yes, that may be true (laughs).

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