THE NEW CLASSIC = a new masterpiece.
The result is three pairs of chinos in different silhouettes.
Hori family:There are three models: the straight "ALLEN", the flared "BRAD", and the wide "DAVID".
BRAD (FLARE) ¥33,000
. The flared silhouette gently widens from the knees to the hem. To match the slim silhouette, the angle of the pocket opening is shallow like that of 50's trousers, which is another hidden feature.
Tanaka:Kimura and Toyoetsu were put aside for a moment (laugh), and Kuboshita and I researched icons of the era that everyone in the world associates with chinos, and that are timeless. We created this design based on that image.
Hori family:I had them made to be properly upwardly compatible (laughs). At first, we had three silhouettes in mind: slim, normal, and wide, but Mr. Tanaka started saying, "I don't wear slim chinos. . When the slim style finally became flared, I was really excited. . They were slim, but boot-cut.
Tanaka:I wanted to give this one a cool impression, so I used the image of Brad Pitt, who represented the 90's and 00's and was irresistible to the world. . That's why it's "BRAD.
Hori family:(Pointing to a picture on his phone in his hand.) This is a picture of Brad Pitt that Tanaka-san found, and it's really cool. He's wearing a tank top. There's also a picture of Kimura beside it (laughs).
DAVID (WIDE) ¥33,000
This wide silhouette pair was created with artists and painters in mind. Like TANAKA's denim, these pants are sewn around the body to create a puckering effect when worn, giving them the most casual finish of the three models. Incidentally, it is David Hockney's style to peek out socks of different colors from the hem of the pants.
Kim Taku has lost it (laughs). By the way, what is your image of "DAVID"?
Hori family:David Hockney.
Tanaka:When I saw a picture of him in the 80's when he was in the groove, he was wearing chinos with a dowdy fit and tucked in, which I thought was a cool style, and that's how I pictured him. So, this is "DAVID".
ALLEN (STRAIGHT) ¥33,000
The straight, royal silhouette that will not fade away over time. The careful piping of the seam allowance at the sides, like a selvedge, which can be seen when the hem is folded back, is another unique feature of "TANAKA". This model is the most trouser-like, with the hems finished with Lewis (invisible scooping machine).
And finally, what do you think of "ALLEN"?
Kuboshita:Woody.
Tanaka:The silhouette is a straight silhouette, but I thought that the chinos worn by Woody Allen in "Annie Hall" were a timeless style that looks cool even today, so I kept that image in mind. Of course, I tried to create a fit that would be comfortable for the customers of WISM.
They all have creases, and in a good way, they don't look like chinos, but rather have the refinement that is typical of "TANAKA.
Tanaka:Like you, I don't wear chinos often, but I don't wear trousers. I thought that if they were a little taller, people would be able to wear them more easily, so I thought of them as pants, without being bound by the image of trousers. Therefore, I named them "THE NEW CLASSIC COTTON TROUSERS. By the way, "classic" does not mean old, but rather a masterpiece, and I chose this name with the intention of creating a "new masterpiece.
I see. Do you have any design or details that are different from regular chinos?
Tanaka:In common with all three models, the side lines are integrated into the front pockets....
Kuboshita:Usually, the side lines go all the way up to the top, but by slanting the pocket openings, the waist is made a little more three-dimensional, and the silhouettes of each side are beautifully presented, which is a point that is typical of "TANAKA.
Tanaka:The pocket opening is sloped, or rather, integrated from the side line to the pocket opening. Normally, they are separate.
Kuboshita:Yeah, so I explained that in plain English.
Hori family:Stop it! Already (laughs). This is the normal operation of the two of us (laughs).
Kuboshita:Also, even though these are chinos, they are made to the specifications of trousers, right? They have a mar belt (a fabric that is placed on the back of the waist to prevent slipping to make them more comfortable) and piping on the inside.
Tanaka:Something like that, because I always do that as a matter of course.
Kuboshita:But you forgot to tell me, didn't you?
Tanaka:Well, regular chinos don't go that far. They are properly made to trouser specifications, and that is indeed an upgrade.
The signature cinch bag and the back pockets are piped with a symbiotic fabric, as seen on old chinos, and other good old-fashioned details. The belt loops have been changed from model to model in terms of length and attachment, another subtle point.
It looks simple, but it is packed with a lot of attention to detail.
Tanaka:I gave a lot of thought to the fit and feel of the garment on the body. If you make them too strange, you won't want to wear them every day. There are very few areas in which pants can be designed, so the key point was how to arrange them.
Could you tell us about the fabrics? You mentioned earlier that Mr. Horie requested casual fabrics.
Tanaka:This time, we used a fabric called Weapon. It is a thick fabric with a rich and secure feel, and the silhouette comes out beautifully.
This is called "wepon," which has its roots in the uniform used at West Point, a military academy for the U.S. Army where the elite went. Because it is twin yarn and high density, it is sturdier than ordinary chinocloth. Before being washed, the fabric is strong enough to stand on its own.
I was surprised that such a fabric was used, as it seems to be soft to the touch and comfortable to wear.
Tanaka:As the phrase "TANAKA for everyone" suggests, we wanted to create something that people would want to pick up every day. We have made the center pleat difficult to remove, wrinkle resistant, and soft to the touch for a comfortable fit by using a form stabilizing finish and a liquid ammonia wash process.
The name on the waist is designed not to come off even if washed. The upside-down design is intended to allow the name to be read when viewed from above.
A tag with the model's name is also placed on the waist.
Tanaka:I have a pair of vintage military chinos that I bought a long time ago , with the name "MIKE" on it. Mr. Kuboshita seemed to remember it and came up with the idea of this kind of makeup.
Hori family:Kuboshita , as expected!
Kuboshita:I think they have a name on them so that people can recognize the name because they are supplied, and I thought it would be interesting to put that on this pair of chinos. I thought it would be interesting to put it on these chinos. They are new, but since they are supplied, they look like old clothes, and I don't really know what they look like.
Hori family:If this had said "Toyoetsu" on it, I would have been even more confused. That was close (laughs).
And you said that it is also available in black.
Hori family:I wanted to make sure to include black. It makes them look like slacks. Also, the khaki color is slightly different for each model. That's the kind of twist that you'd expect from "TANAKA. It's hard to choose between the two, but I think I'll go with black. No, I'd like to try khaki, too.
Tanaka:Isn't Mr. Horike in khaki? It looked good on you.
Hori family:Ah, really . Then, if I put on Birkenstocks, I would look like Toyoetsu. Where is my Takako Tokiwa?
. You have a wide range of sizes, 27, 29, 31, and 33 .
Hori family:The key phrase was "TANAKA for everyone," so I tried to make sure that everyone could wear it to some extent. Some of you may be thin, and it is also fine if you are a woman.
Then there is the big size flasher, which is not typical of " TANAKA. . This design is all hand-drawn by Mr. Tanaka. . And he is holding a shopper of "WISM.
Kuboshita:It's like selling pants with flashers on them.
The chino pants are friendly in every way and embody "TANAKA for everyone". How did you feel when you actually held the finished product in your hands?
Hori family:It was something I had envisioned from the first exhibition I went to, and I am happy that it has taken shape. That's all I can say.
I believe that the most important thing when creating something is whether or not the creator is excited about it. It is not something that I just put on the shelves because it will sell, but something that all the staff in the store would want to wear, and that is exactly what I have achieved this time.
Tanaka:At first, I thought a lot about it, like, given the image of "wism", would it be better to have something easy to understand? . So I had a proposal with more details. But Mr. Horike said, "It's okay to keep it restrained. Wasn't that right, Mr. Kuboshita?
Kuboshita:Lately, my memory is... (laughs). Well, yes, I did think that you wanted to go surprisingly simple.
Tanaka:That's what I'm looking for in "TANAKA.
Hori family:. I'm the type of person who doesn't want to make too much of a mess. Besides, if I overdo it, I don't want to wear them every day. Of course, looking at the finished product, I think this look is truly one-of-a-kind, and I would like people who don't normally wear chinos to try these chinos.
But it was so good this time around that I'm kind of wondering if I should skip the paint the next time around (laughs).
I see (laughs). So we can look forward to your future efforts?
Hori family:. I hope that the effort with "TANAKA" itself will be a place where not only I, but all the other staff members can add their own touches. For the next fall/winter, we might make a drizzler or something out of this material, and the paint might be flying. . This time, I wanted to create an item that would serve as a framework for such ideas to emerge. In a way, these chinos are like "udon noodles.
Now that we have such items made, I think it is up to "wism" to convey their appeal and sell them in a cool way, so I hope we can have fun while doing so. After that, I think we will be able to see what we can do next.
