We will incorporate elements of the present into the construction of those days that go back in history.
After the fabrics and components are decided, the customer consults with the master tailor, Mr. Tian, about details, sewing, and other specifications. He accepts detailed instructions.
Rice field: In the classic direction, you can also fold down the sewing and do a single.
Kaneko: That is very hot. The in-seam is a fold-down stitch, which means that only one stitch is exposed, and we like that a lot. We like it a lot. It makes us excited when we see the back side. For example, in the case of military items, we intentionally change a part that is originally sewn with a lock sewing machine to a fold-down stitch. If you want to make something carefully crafted, you should fold it over.
-The inside of the coin pocket also has a mimi, doesn't it?
Kaneko: Yes. It's already super special.
Rice field: The hem of the jacket is also not a normal chain. The front and hem are usually sewn separately, but this time they are sewn together in a single stroke. This is also different from the norm.
Kaneko: I think it is quite spectacular for those who are interested in sewing. But I don't think there are too many people who would feel comfortable there (laughs).
Leather patch and stitch color selected by Mr. Kaneko. It is also nice to be able to choose the design of the archuate stitching.
-On a more conspicuous note, the Arcuate is also slightly different from the current regular, isn't it?
Rice field: Nowadays, two stitches are usually crossed in the middle, but if you look at the '30s or so, they were not crossed at that time. In the case of "Lot Number One," everything is done with a single stitch, as in the past.
Kaneko: And yet, it looks like two stitches because you're good at it. Usually, the stitches are sewn one at a time, so they are often not parallel, and if someone sews badly, that's how you can tell. That can be a bit of an artifact, but "lot number one" is beautifully done.
Rice field: I think I may have practiced the most because it is the face of denim.
Using six sewing machines, Mr. Ta sews one pair of jeans all by himself.
-Is the thread cotton thread?
Rice field: This is a span. Only the surface is cotton and the core is polyester.
Kaneko: I'm not an expert in sewing myself. I myself am not an expert in sewing.
Rice field: But I'm glad you can get that far into the sewing area.
Kaneko: I think it is a matter of adding elements of the present to the work made back then, which goes back a long way in history, and adding ideas of "how it could be done better. So, it was really worth asking for. I think the details are too detailed to be written about in news articles. I looked at the "Lot Number One" website, but it was written in a simplified form, so I couldn't imagine what the story would be like now.
Rice field: It's really hard to tell (laughs).
Kaneko: That's right. If I don't spend hours explaining it in a video, I don't think you will ever understand. I myself first got hooked on clothes at Levi's (®︎︎︎), and from the moment I bought a 501 (®︎︎) and a red pack T from Haynes, I was hooked on clothes, so today is the culmination of that.
In pursuit of the ideal silhouette, the length and sleeve length are adjusted millimeter by millimeter after actually trying on the garments.
The jeans are trimmed off the excess around the hips to create the sleek silhouette that Kaneko prefers.
-What was the most difficult part of the whole ordering process?
Kaneko: The most important thing is the pattern. It was a little unexpected. Especially the top (jacket). The base shape of the bottom also looks like "501®︎︎" at first glance, but it's a bit more like slacks. They are a little different from the "501®︎︎" pants, which have a full range of motion, but they are sleek and beautiful standing up. When I tried on the jacket, I found it to be perfectly that way.
-The pattern was not a straight line from the shoulder to the sleeve like old American wear, but had a sleeve mountain.
Kaneko: I thought it would be difficult to leverage that. I thought it would be difficult to leverage this point, and since I was originally focused on the set-up, I decided to ignore the history of denim for the time being and make it as if it were a normal tailored garment. I decided to focus on the fitting, and how beautiful it would look when you put on the sleeves and stand up. Many people probably think of vintage or old-fashioned clothes, so they may feel uncomfortable at first.
After trying on the garment, measurements are taken and a specification sheet is prepared. Measurements are taken carefully for the crotch, waist, and other details. This is the final stage of counseling.
I think it is typical of Kaneko-san that he is able to make such flat judgments and switch from one situation to another.
Kaneko: In that sense, it is similar to a suit. And I think there is a lot of meaning in a set-up, then. This time, the stitching is completely different from the vintage version, so it's a completely different product. I don't think many people today would wear this as workwear, so I think it's natural for daily wear to specialize in the beauty of the garment when worn.
