What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The commemorative top batter was Mr. Sakamoto of "instant bootleg store" (instant bootleg store).
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.1_Gap's Hoodies & Vests
-What does Mr. Sakamoto think of the New Vintage?
What is the reason for the increase in the value of vintage clothing based on the history of vintage clothing up to now? This is the key to the new vintage. In fashion, the trend setters are stylists, stores, designers, brands, and media such as magazines. Well, that's about right. In order to attach value to a trendy item that has just appeared on the market, it is a prerequisite that the item itself is equipped with a vessel.
Is it a - vessel?
I believe that the quality should be of a certain level, and that there should be a certain number of these items in circulation. In recent years, the North Face's Nu Psi Down is a perfect example of this. I remember that 10 years ago, even in my hometown of Edogawa-ku, my father's and grandfather's generation used to wear them. However, now that SUPREME has hooked up with them and famous artists, who are also known as fashion icons, have been wearing them, both new and used clothes have stabilized at high prices. This is the result of the "reputation gained in the changing times" working in a positive direction in relation to the "goodness of the product itself.
-Do you mean that your evaluation has changed in the changing times?
. In this way, fashionable singularities become fads. The fashionable singularities created in this way become fads, and finally, the items that are acceptable to the majority of people become basics, and are then eliminated as authentic. I believe that this is how the New Vintage was born.
. - that the key is the new demand that arises in changing times and fashions. . Then, please tell us what items you consider to be new vintage.
One of the brands I have been paying attention to is "Gap. For example, "Polo Ralph Lauren," which is well known by everyone. This brand was founded in 1968, but even items from the 1990s are recognized as fine vintage clothing, attracting everyone from teenagers to seniors, right?
-. In the U.S., it has become a part of the culture.
The Gap was established in 1969, so its history is almost the same. Likewise, Gap has an abundance of seasonal models, and an overwhelming amount of items are distributed worldwide. A treasure trove of material, so to speak. In short, we can find a lot in common. Then, why did Polo Ralph Lauren, unlike the Gap, become a brand that also holds collections targeting a higher buyer base? The answer is simple. Because people and celebrities who belonged to the fashion singularity culture wore the clothes. Just as mohair cardigans and pajamas gained value in the vintage clothing market under the influence of Kurt Cobain of Nirvana, Ralph Lauren has established its current position by being loved by the nostalgic generation of "aibu-kajigashi" and even by hip-hop artists and influencers who are taking the world by storm. Ralph's current status is due to the fact that he was loved by hip-hop artists and influencers who have taken the world by storm. In layman's terms, because he was making everything, he was able to flexibly cozy up to any culture.
-And you think the same is true of the Gap?
Personally, I think I have enough of those vessels. It's just that the items represented are more casual than Ralph's, and they are very compatible with the culture of the current era. . The brand was originally targeted at the teenage generation. Nowadays, we live in an age where Vuitton and Kim Jones are in the same brand, and the distance between mode and casual is getting closer and closer, and Gap's lineup is more than enough to meet the needs of today's youth. . We make everything as well as Ralph, you know. Also, I love the fact that the brand name came about when the founder and his wife were discussing the "generation gap" with a friend.
-What is the first thing to check out among the vast number of items that have been released?
Gap Hoodie ¥5,800 + tax (Instant Bootleg Store)
How about this? A hoodie with a bold logo . From the point of view of the Showa generation like us, this is the kind of hoodie that someone in our class wore when we were in elementary school. I don't even remember saying I wanted one, but my mothers would spontaneously buy them for me (laughs). . Then, it was just the natural order of things. But if a famous stylist sets up a fashion icon to wear them, well.... And the people who see them on social networking sites are not only born in the Heisei era but also in the 2025 era. For them, it is the first fresh item they have seen in their lives. Without any preconceptions, they will think it is "cool! and they feel it is cool. And since we live in an easy-to-influence world, they will quickly go down to the sea of electronic brains. I believe that with just a touch of culture, the "Gap" could become a staple like Ralph Lauren.
Gap's Cycle Vest ¥5,800 + TAX (Instant Bootleg Store)
-. Next is a nylon vest. It looks somewhat like cycle wear.
It seems to me that this type of item has been in production for years. . In fact, you can find a variety of models with minor changes. This one has reflectors on the back and a T-shirt-like light-ounce fabric lining, so it wicks sweat like a T-shirt and will be useful in the coming seasons. Over the past few years, vests have become a citizen's item due to the popularity of fishing vests, which used to be just a used item that didn't sell well. . I think the demand for solid vests like this will increase next to that. In this day and age, people wear vests instead of bags, and I think this would be a good fit for those who have shied away from fishing vests because they are a bit too gear-oriented. I casually wish Masaki Sugata would wear a vest like this over his suit set-up.
-I'm sure that a thorough investigation will reveal many more new discoveries.
If a store staff member were to give you a lecture on the details of a cycle vest from one year to the next, everyone would buy it. Nowadays, a geek who digs into the "Gap" that much is probably a cool fashionista, too (laughs). (Laughs) It is precisely because the younger generation is returning to an era in which buying is about the person, rather than about the product, that secondhand clothing stores should be communicating this kind of information! Including me.
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". In 2020, he launched "instantbootlegstore" and has been involved in various projects. Hajime Sakamoto's store, which sells what he considers to be good quality items, is based on the theme of "a wonderful way to spend your allowance.instantbootlegstore."The first is.
Instagram:@hajime0722
