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What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The third installment is by Takashi Aoki of SIESTA.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Takashi Aoki / Owner of SIESTA
Vol.3_Souvenirs in San Francisco
-What is the new vintage for you?
Well, to be honest, I don't know! (laughs). To begin with, there are items from before the 80's, such as items from the 50's and 60's, whose value has not yet been determined by the vintage clothing industry. Then, at some point, someone said, "If you say it has value, you win! and then they are recognized as vintage. This has been repeated in the vintage clothing industry up to now. I think the "new vintage" is basically the same thing. However, I think it's good to choose items that have value to you, not based on someone else's criteria, but on your favorite culture, such as music or skateboarding, for example.
-What are the criteria for selecting on that basis?
First of all, rarity is not important. In the past, for example, with Levi's 501®︎, everyone was looking for exactly the same thing. In contrast, New Vintage is more simple: "I just want something that has the same atmosphere. In other words, as long as the general framework of genres and categories are the same, it's OK. In our case, it is "San Francisco.
-Siesta" = San Francisco. This time, we would like to introduce you to some souvenirs from San Francisco. First of all, T-shirts.
San Francisco Souvenir T-shirts from left to right: ¥6,500+TAX, ¥7,000+TAX, ¥9,000+TAX(All siestas)
This one has Kokopelli (the fertility god of the Hopi tribe, a Native American tribe) as a single point. And for some reason, it's embroidered (laughs). Speaking of Kokopelli, LQQK Studio also made a fleece jacket with the Kokopelli design a while back, didn't they? When I read an interview with them, they said, "Kokopelli plays an instrument and we like music, too. In short, "It just seemed like a good idea" (laughs). (laughs) I think it's okay to start with something like that. It's just a feeling. For example, if a member of a band you like is wearing a T-shirt of a band you don't know, you might ask yourself, "What is this? You would look it up and listen to the band's music. I think it is important how the selection of things expands and connects from there. This is how a person's own new vintage is born.
-I think it's important how you perceive it and how it expands from there. I also enjoy looking at the 101 Doggies and the map patterns.
To be honest, I'm in the mood to buy what's out there, but in the end it comes down to whether or not I want to wear it. This map pattern was sampled in a hoodie made by a San Francisco skate crew called "GX1000. It is fun to imagine what kind of people would buy a T-shirt with such a silly design, even if it is a souvenir. I wonder if they went to Alcatraz Island for a tour and bought it at a souvenir shop there. Then I guess they must have been from inland. And maybe they bought it, but kept it in the back of their closet and sold it at a bazaar at their son's school. (laughs)
-And then it comes around and is sold in Harajuku, Japan (laughs). (Laughs.) There is a story behind it.
Yes, yes. That is the most interesting part of vintage clothing. I think the people who first started wearing vintage clothing as a fashion item had an initial impulse to not want to wear the same things as others. Over time, they came to think that they had to wear things that everyone else thought were good. Basically, things introduced in magazines and the media are already sold out in stores. That's how vintage clothing is. If you tell the store staff, "I like XXX," they will tell you that they like this kind of vibe, too. They will tell you what they think you might like. Through this process, one's own sense of what is "cool" will develop. I think that is the best part of looking for and wearing vintage clothing.
-I see. Next is the sweatshirt, which is a very common design, isn't it?
San Francisco Souvenir Sweatshirt ¥6,500+TAX(Siesta)
The design features the Golden Gate Bridge and the initials S-F, the symbol of San Francisco. It is true that this design is often seen on San Francisco souvenirs, but I am not sure if it is official or unofficial. It is also used by brands other than vintage clothing, such as the Bay Area Gift Shop. Well, that's how much people love the design.
-I can't say I've ever seen anything like it.
The point is, "Why embroidery instead of print?" The point is, "Why embroidery instead of print? I thought that embroidery would have a more luxurious feel. The body is made by "Hanes" of the 90's, and I personally like the thick armholes and boxy silhouette of the Hanes line. I personally like the thick armholes and boxy silhouette. It's fun to compare the slightly different fonts of the letters, but that doesn't mean there's anything beyond that... (laughs). (laugh) I guess the right thing to do is to choose and enjoy the atmosphere.
-In the end, it all comes down to the taste of the person making the selection.
To begin with, items from this area already transcend the concept of coolness. In our generation, the characters in skate videos and movies of the time were all wearing ordinary American clothes, and we admired them. So, I didn't have the sense that "old" or "rare" was good. It just so happened that as I became an old man myself, the things I liked at that time also became what is called "new vintage. Well, don't think too much about it, and find things that other people see as worthless but that you think are good. Isn't it the best to find it? And above all, it's inexpensive (laughs).
Takashi Aoki / Owner, SIESTA
After working at I&I, a popular vintage clothing store in the Jinnan area of Shibuya, he opened SIESTA, a store selling imported and vintage clothing and bicycle parts, on Tonchan-dori in Harajuku. With a selection that evokes the culture of the U.S. West Coast and surrounding areas, the shop has gained a wide range of fans from skaters, cyclists, city boys, and industry professionals. This year marks its 10th anniversary.
Official website:www.siesta81.com
Instagram:@siestastore
