【FOCUS IT.] Two brands created by a man who cannot live without music and clothes. Woo-shin and Naoki Kuze stir up a session.

He is a fashion icon and a musician . . and an event organizer, Naoki Kuze is a freelance director who has been on the move for some time. He has supported numerous brands from the shadows and has produced a string of hits in the past, and is now launching the apparel brand "Naoki Kuze" and the headdress brand "Usin.

The aesthetic eye of a person who has been at the forefront of the scene and the perspective of a musician. The items that incorporate both of these experiences are iconic and full of gimmicks that enrich our daily lives. Looking at his own items, he describes them as "clothes that were born because of music.

It was born because of the music.

Did you have the desire to start your own brand when you were in the press?

There was no such thing. When I went freelance, I decided not to do inventory work. I decided to make a living by producing and directing, and not by holding inventory. So I was fine with just doing PR work, but even after going freelance, I was able to work with various people, such as helping out at events for Miyagi Hidetaka and Tenbox. Everyone close to me was succeeding in the work they loved, and while I was supporting them, I became very frustrated with their success. There are many brands and events that I have planned and produced, but I felt that I was not ready to take on the challenge, even though I had the know-how. I thought about this last year.

. Your frustration was not a feeling of envy for their success, was it? It is not only a negative feeling, but also a feeling of joy, but also a dilemma of not being able to challenge somewhere?

. Of course I am very happy when those around me succeed, but I also had a sense of "who the hell am I? . I was happy, but I also had a sense of "who the hell am I? . The reason I went freelance was because I wanted to do more music. Music and fashion are both necessary for me, and I could not draw a line between the two. In that sense, I felt that while I had left songs under the name NAOKI KUZE in music, I had nothing left to say about myself in fashion, even though I had done many different things.

At that time, I talked to Mr. Tsuchiya of "Searge," a senior staff member of "Journal Standard" who has been a great help to me for a long time, and he encouraged me to give it a try. I had seen Searge grow from a very close distance, so his words were more encouraging than anything else.

NAOKI KUZE 60/40 Cloth "Live Jacket" ¥35,000+TAX each

The five pockets on the inside can hold a long wallet, plastic bottle, AirPods, sunglasses, etc. .

A: The newly launched "Naoki Kuze" and "Wu-Shin". Do you have a concept?

I guess I want to make what I want to wear. At the moment, I have no intention of selling wholesale to stores, and when I am finished, I would like to sell directly to customers. I have no intention of sticking to that, but since I have given my name to my work, I would rather sell it through galleries than through select stores or clothing stores. It would be like an artist's solo exhibition, where I would say, "This is a work that expresses who I am at the moment. If I had a theme, it would be to combine music and fashion. No, I would say, "Clothes that were born because of music. I wanted to make clothes with a story.

. As a press agent, I thought the clothes really conveyed Kuze-san's emphasis on storytelling. It is gimmicky and full of Kuze's lifestyle. This live jacket is just like that.

Really , I'm glad to hear that. I was at a ramen shop earlier, and I didn't want to leave my jacket and luggage on the floor, and it's a hassle to put them in my bag. . So I made it so that I could take it off while carrying it on my back. Moreover, the pockets can be accessed without taking it off. It was raining on the way here today, but it repelled the water. I am proud of myself, but the function is the design, and it is very easy to use.

Hinted at everyday life.
The item that can be called "the" item.

I like the realism of it. I think it will be used in completely different ways depending on the wearer's lifestyle and personality, and even though it is packed with gimmicks, there is a sense that there is some blank space.

I would be happy if that were to happen. I know a lot of military details, but I often think about how I would use them in my current clothes and my own style. This shoulder strap was originally a military detail. But I find it very useful when I am eating a meal or using the computer at a café. Also, when I am walking, it is hot but I don't want to carry it by hand, or when I go to a concert and don't want to leave my jacket at the cloakroom.

You're right. I miss buying things while I'm in my locker, or I have to watch from a distance from the stage (laughs).

It's a live performance thing, isn't it (laughs)? . I always thought it would be nice to have such clothes. . So I incorporated my own experience into the clothes for this collection. I was once splashed with beer when I bumped into someone at a club, but I was wearing a 60/40 cloth jacket, and it repelled the beer and didn't get dirty at all.

It is the Rokuyon cloth that was often used by "Sierra Design" and others, isn't it?

Yes, that's right. Rokuyon cloth is surprisingly good; it is less waterproof than GORE-TEX, but it can be washed at home and is convenient. . Personally, I feel that GORE-TEX is too over-specified and a bit too shapely. In terms of looks, ROKUYON cloth has a cotton taste and blends in easily with items made of any fabric.

. So your ideas come from what you notice in your daily life.

. It is mostly based on my own experience. I like coach jackets, but I make them short so that even a normal-sized person like me can look stylish. It makes my eyes look up and makes me look stylish. Most of the clothes I make are for my friends, but I also wanted to make clothes that would go well with my own wardrobe.

. In addition to the short length, the side zips can be opened to show off the inner lining.

Yes, it is. . the temperature is easy to adjust and the pockets are easy to access.

This jacket has a lot of work and street elements. . Simple, but functional.

I didn't use colorful patterns because I wanted to be the first to present something like "the" Naoki Kuze.

Do you feel that you will improve upon this item in the future?

Yes, I think so. It's not a signature item, but it would be nice to put graphics on it like a coach jacket, and I hope to work with someone else to do various things with it eventually.

It looks like it would be a great dish to cook.

Yes . I don't think we will collaborate for the time being. . I have a lot of things I want to do now, so I will give shape to them first.

NAOKI KUZE Celluloid Sunglasses "Steve" ¥45,000+TAX
An original frame commissioned from a craftsman in Fukuoka . . The name of the item comes from a nickname Mr. Kuze was called when he was a student.

. These sunglasses are very typical of you, aren't they?

I wear eyewear all the time, so I definitely wanted to make a pair. I think there are not many individuals who make celluloid sunglasses for their brand debut, but thankfully, I had the opportunity to do so. I hope to release them on a regular basis, changing the material and so on.

Do you have a pair of sunglasses modeled after these?

The model is a pair of sunglasses of a certain high brand that I used to use. I like them very much, but the size of the frames is quite large. I liked them, but I thought it was hard to use them for daily use. I liked them, but I thought it was difficult to use them for daily use, so I created an original model based on them, adjusting the details to my liking.

A: Like the jacket you just made, is music a big influence in your clothes making?

All of the items I made for this project are things that I wish I had when I go to live shows or go to see live performances. I used to wear sunglasses with pitch-black lenses during live performances, but it was hard to see what was going on in front of me. I had been looking for a pair of sunglasses with light-colored lenses since then, and that's how I came up with these. I can play in the dark with them.

Wu Xing KROWN ¥9,000+TAX each
It is available in two types: ombre check, reminiscent of American casual, and nylon.
The lining is made of breathable mesh.

." The headdress brand "Usin" also has a hat shape that we don't see very often, doesn't it? What was your reference?

It is a hat worn in the Middle East called Kufi and Tam. I wanted a compact hat for my business trips and local gigs. Caps can't be folded, so they are quite bulky. Besides, there are so many hat brands out there, it is quite difficult to create something new. So, I decided to make a hat with a shape that is not often seen, and that is why I chose to feature kufi and tamu. I had always been curious about this shape personally. When I went to India last year on a job for Tenbox, I observed many people wearing kufis without Pigu's knowledge (laughs).

I see, like, let's get some ideas (laughs).

But I'm trying to use a material that doesn't feel too much like religious colors, so it could be an ombre check, or I'm thinking of Air Max 95. . like this one, it's a yellow gradient color.

Wu Xing TAM 95 ¥4,500+TAX each

Indeed. I noticed that when you said that, it's interesting.

Also, these tums are usually made of stiffer, stiffer fabric, or rasta-colored, and the size is a bit small. . This one is made of sock fabric, so it is very soft.

. Yes, it is.

Yes, they are soft socks to wear in the room, or rather, I had them waffle knitted. . As well as the live jackets, all of them are made of materials that can be washed at home.

. It features a soft texture knitted with cotton knit used in socks.
The combination of chic gray and neon yellow,
. It is reminiscent of the high-tech sneakers that took the world by storm in the 1990s.

. It's nice to be able to do laundry easily.

Right , I don't like clothes that can't be washed and I don't have any knitwear. Knits have to be taken to the cleaners and it's stressful not being able to wash them at home.

Do you have a similar mindset in the way you make clothes and the way you make songs?

I think we might be similar. It sounds too cool to say it like this, but I'm more of a descent type. Rather than making music while playing the guitar, I come up with a phrase during a conversation. Clothing is the same way. I come up with ideas on the spur of the moment.

. You don't sit at a desk and think things over.

Yes, that's right. Also, I would like to avoid creating things that are already available in the world. Things that already exist are perfect. There is no need to make any changes.

Kuze looks at clothes more than anyone else, so the bar seems to be set pretty high.

. Yes, so I wanted something positive to add to my life. When I looked for something that would set me apart from others, music was the one thing that came to mind. One of my closest predecessors is Mr. Nishino of "NEET. I don't think there are very many people who started their own brand after working in the press business. In addition to that, I don't think there are many people who are also involved in music. After analyzing myself, I was convinced that this was my strength. So I am happy that I was finally able to realize what I wanted in the music scene.

An idea that has been brewing for many years has finally taken shape.

The live jackets are just like that. I can't wait to let the other seeds sprout as well.