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Translated By DeepL

So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.5 Umbro's "delinquent attitude" flows because of its paper-thin nature.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

The fifth installment is once again by Mr. Hajime Sakamoto of "instant bootleg store.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii


Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.5_Umbro nylon jackets & nylon pants

-What are some of the new vintage items you will be introducing this time?

This time it's UMBRO. Uniforms have been the focus of attention since the days of PALACE SKATEBOARDS, and skaters have been wearing them, but if we talk about them in the context of vintage clothing, I think it would be interesting to see clothing other than what is used for the actual game. For our generation, we have a strong impression of jerseys and bags worn by soccer players. It was long before the Palace was born that these items first appeared in front of our eyes "as fashion. Liam (Gallagher) of Oasis started wearing them.

-Oh, yes, you were wearing it.

Until then, fashion in the UK rock context was all about rock and punk, wearing tight, double riders and the like, and that was the public image. That was cool, but there were no UK musicians wearing game jerseys, pistes, or nylon pullovers. Then, in 1996, Liam showed up at the Maine Road Stadium wearing an Umbro jersey. That was the coolest thing ever! He's wearing a collar shirt inside, you know (laughs).

-The roughness of the character is also a fine line between tacky and tacky.

Yes, that's right! That's like Kurt from Nirvana going on stage in his pajamas. If someone else does the same thing, it is just cosplay. Why? Because there is no difference between public and private. After all, "It's because he's a star!" It's very difficult to imitate them (laughs). I have always thought that if Nirvana could be considered a fashion context, then Oasis could also be a fashion context. In fact, it was like our mindset, which had always been focused on the U.S., was suddenly opened up. You never forget something like that, do you? It's Perry, the Black Ships are coming! That's what it was all about (laughs).

-That's how shocking it was. But I think of Umbro only in terms of soccer wear....

Umbro nylon print pants ¥7,480-TAX IN(Instant Bootleg Store)

No, no. Take this one, for example! You won't find anything like this now, will you? Tapered nylon pants with an all-over pattern print. In the first place, sports items tend to show the country's character, and in the U.S., there are four major sports. But in the UK, it changes to football. That's why items like this appear.

-It is indeed interesting. The silhouette seems easy to incorporate.

This is pretty cool...90's blue tag. In the U.S., Chicanos and gangsters wore field hockey shirts and uniforms, right? In the same way, working class people in England used to wear cheap Umbro shirts like these. That's why there is an underlying "delinquent attitude" that men yearn for in "Umbro". And if you simply think of nylon pants for sports, wouldn't they have such a stylish logo print? The counterculture in the U.K. is always gloomier than in the U.S. It rains a lot, and there is no entertainment like football. It rains a lot, and the only entertainment is football. It's also nice to see that this kind of subdued soil is really reflected in the design.

-The other one is the jacket?

Umbro nylon jacket left ¥8,800¥-TAX IN, right ¥9,000-TAX IN,(both instant bootleg stores)

Look at this! There are logo lines on the sleeves, but American brands would never do something like this. No, it's like they can't do it. But it's cool, isn't it? Every single thing is so stylish.

This one is from the early 2000's as I guessed from the tag. ...... has a strange pocket on the right hem. It was quite funny, wasn't it? When I noticed it, I thought, "It's an iPod nano, isn't it? I said to myself, "Wow, that's definitely it! Well, I don't know what it's actually used for, but it makes me feel a little bit older, like the iPod nano is vintage, and I'm deeply moved by that. I hope that my generation and the generations after me will enjoy finding these items, so I picked them up.

-Umbro is certainly a brand worth digging for.

Previous,Mr. Ito introduced Polo Golf.Umbro is still buried as "used" items in your neighborhood recycle store, and that is why there are still interesting items lying around that have no value attached to them. In fact, if you don't look for it seriously, 90% of it is tacky (laughs). (Laughs) In that sense, I think this is a topic where you can feel the very heart and essence of secondhand clothing. This is truly "new vintage. It is really fun to be exposed to new things, and I would be very happy if, for those who read this article, tomorrow they will be able to see "Umbro" as "vintage" clothing.

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". In 2020, he launched "instantbootlegstore" and has been involved in various projects. Hajime Sakamoto's store, which sells what he considers to be good quality items, is based on the theme of "a wonderful way to spend your allowance.instantbootlegstore."The first is.
Instagram:@hajime0722

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