NEW VINTAGE
What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The eighth installment is once again by Mr. Tadahiro Ito of Ito Shoten.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Tadahiro Ito / Manager, Ito Shoten
Vol.8_Eddie Bauer's nylon down vest and fleece zip jacket
-What are some of the new vintage items you will be introducing this time?
Is it already the second round? Two months goes by so fast.... But that's beside the point. This time, I brought a pair of "Eddie Bauer" shoes.
-L.L.Bean, which was introduced by Mr. Aoki of Siesta in Vol. 7.It is a staple of American casual, known not only in the vintage clothing world but also to everyone, just like the
Eddie Bauer nylon down vest ¥6,500 *TAX IN（Ito Shoten)
That's right. Let's start with this down vest. The model name is "Canadian Vest," and it is the original type of inner down that is now well-known. Until now, this area was not popular at all among people other than serious vintage clothing lovers. First of all, they are small in size! It was a time when people wore clothes in true-to-size, and being an outdoor brand, it was hard to believe that it was a 38 (equivalent to a M in Japan).
-That's right. When is it a thing?
In terms of age, it is the 80's because of the black tag. The "EXPEDITION OUTFITTER/SEATLE USA" label is from the early period, and the "PREMIUM QUALITY GOOSE DOWN" tag indicates that this is a high-end line using goose down. However, it is too thin and not very warm (laugh). At least, people around me consider it as "a down vest that is not warm".
-I was so happy to see the goose down, but it was meaningless... (tears).
However, it is recognized as a masterpiece in the world. This year's reissue commemorates the 100th anniversary of the brand's founding. Moreover, in collaboration with JJJound, the archival design has been reproduced, but with larger sizing and a metal plate attached to the pocket.
-If it was a collaboration with a brand designed by Justin Sanders, a member of Donda, the creative collective directed by Kanye West, wouldn't it have sold out immediately?
I bought it as soon as I could! I was really worried about which one to buy because "Skyliner," which is also a masterpiece, was also reissued. However, it didn't become a topic of conversation at all, and it seems that people in general didn't talk about it.... I just want to applaud you for making such a humble collaboration happen. You did a great job! (laughs). In the first place, among outdoor wear that is evolving more and more functionally, people who choose vintage Bauer clothing like that kind of austere stuff, myself included (laughs).
-The other is a fleece zip jacket. What is the "EBTEK" embroidered on the chest?
Eddie Bauer "Evie Tech" fleece zip jacket
¥5,000*TAX IN（Ito Shoten)
It is the name of Eddie Bauer's high-performance line, which was only available for a few years starting in 1996. At the time, everyone was offering this kind of line, like Polo Ralph Lauren's Polo Hi-Tec and Gap's GP TECH.
-What are some of the highlights of the New Vintage?
The points are the primary coloring, the high neck with the nylon fabric switch, the stitching on the body... hmmm, that's normal (laughs). More than that, knowing the context, such as Kanye West wore a slightly different version of this in 2018 or so, and that this line is also being reissued for the 100th anniversary, you can connect the dots. I think if you look at it from that perspective, you can see that it's an interesting item. It's not very subtle, but....
-Vol. 4He said that modest items do not sell well when the
The standards for "good looking" are totally different between Generation Z and the generation that wore the clothes in real time. Even the Gen Z generation and the generation that wore the clothes in real time have totally different standards of "good-looking. In that sense, I think this is the best way to enjoy vintage clothing freely, regardless of generation. When wearing them, I think it is more modern to match them with a coat or slacks and keep it clean, rather than wearing them with baggy denim or in a 90's cosplay style.
-Bauer is actually very current, isn't it?
For example, knitwear, whether in color or pattern, is usually fashionable. In my mind, Bauer has the image of being patronized by outdoorsmen like C.W. Nicole. But there are not only standard items, but also a lot of unusual and interesting items, and the biggest attraction is that you can incorporate them into your fashion. As one would expect.POLO GOLF, introduced in Vol. 4It is harder to find than, but it is still available in thrift stores if you look for it. However, there are still only a few places that are pushing it. When you hear that, don't you think it's worth digging?
Tadahiro Ito / Manager, Ito Shoten
In 2008, he opened the vintage clothing store "T" in Koenji. Its street-based selections attracted a lot of attention. Later, he relocated to Shibuya and expanded his fan base to include musicians and people in the fashion industry. Currently, he runs "Ito Shoten," a playful web store featuring a selection of vintage clothing and his own headwear brand "geek. He also holds pop-up stores on an irregular basis.
Official website:itostore.thebase.in
Instagram:@mr_t_ito
