What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The 11th edition of the series also welcomed a new face. Mr. Takahisa Sakamoto of Warming.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Takahisa Sakamoto / Owner, Warming
Vol.11_Orvis Sweatshirts & Hunting Jackets
-What is the new vintage for you?
As in the past, we focus on items that have been used for practical purposes in real fields such as work, military, sports, etc., and that have a certain amount of atmosphere and age that has developed over time, up to the early 00s. I think these are my rough criteria. Most of the items made in this period were created based on the idea that there was a vintage precedent, and I think this is one of the reasons why they are so interesting.
-It was certainly a time when "sampling and updating" became a common design method, and the number of such methods was increasing.
The same is true for brands that we often carry, but personally, in real time, brands like GOODENOUGH and POLO RALPH LAUREN, which I loved, are good examples of this. They did not just take what was considered vintage at the time and remake it, but incorporated ideas that had never existed before, such as changing a flight jacket to sweatshirt material, a B-3 to nylon down, or increasing the size of the silhouette, You were "making things fit the times". I feel that being conscious of this sense when making selections is one of the hints for enjoying the new vintage.
-I think it is important to think about how to dress in accordance with the current times. And now, I would like to introduce you to ORVIS.
It is a long-established outdoor manufacturer born in the U.S. that has been in existence since 1850, mainly making fishing and hunting gear and clothing. As far as I know, I have never seen a specialty store of Orvis in Japan, and I think that in Japan, it is still not familiar to people other than fishing enthusiasts, and the number of distribution is also small. In the vintage clothing market, L.L.Bean is close to Orvis in terms of image, and you can find many items that can be positioned in a similar position in terms of quality, functionality, and design.
-Here are some of the new vintage items that we picked up.
First is a sweatshirt featuring a golden retriever, a familiar sight in Japan. The golden retriever is an indispensable breed in hunting, as it is responsible for retrieving prey shot down during hunting, and the Labrador is equally active, and both are often used on sweatshirts and caps by hunting manufacturers.
Orvis sweatshirt ¥11,000-TAX IN(Warming)
-The mood is indescribable and good.
The most notable feature of this sweatshirt is that the body is made by "Harborside Graphics. They are also used for "L.L. Bean" and "REI" T-shirts, and are known for their animal and landscape graphics, but I had never seen a sweatshirt with a large dog printed on it like this one. Most sweatshirts of this season are made of 50/50 cotton-poly, but this one is made of 901 TP10T cotton, which is a little thicker, just like reverse weave sweatshirts. The more you wear it, the more it develops a good texture. The color of the body is also rare for vintage clothing, and matches the color scheme of the print and the manufacturer's tag!
-It's a complete swamp to start being aware of matching tags as well (laughs).
(Laughs). The manufacturer's tag is this green tag with a fishing basket on it, probably from the 90s. As far as I know, items with this tag are generally good. The other is a simple tag with only the "ORVIS" name, probably from the 2000s. This tag is even more unexplored than the green tag, and I think there are more than a few people who are interested in it.
-Is there any change in the item itself?
At this time, the outdoor category was also experiencing the rise of the Euro-types such as BABUR, and it was probably because of the demand for stylishness rather than the American-inspired boorishness that had been the norm until then. The silhouette gradually shifted from slim to more appropriate. I myself was aware that "Orvis" was no exception to this trend, but even among these overlooked items, there were some interesting items that now seem fresh and new.
-That's the brand's signature hunting jacket.
Orvis reversible hunting jacket ¥16,500-TAX IN(Warming)
The front and back sides are made of different fabrics, with a reversible moleskin material and a chinocloth-like cotton material. I have seen reversible or plain and patterned coveralls called "barn coats," but the details of the front and back sides of this coat are different in detail. First, the brown side. The eye-catching buttons on the front are classic, but the sleeve buttons are easy-to-use snap buttons, probably because they are used frequently. The slash pockets are well-positioned and cleanly designed, and the large flap pocket below them has a rounded, three-dimensional structure like a "fishing basket" with a bulge at the bottom. The epaulettes, which are only on one side, and the fold-over parts like the chinstrap are also unique.
-By the way, what's the back side?
This one has a tan collar, asymmetrical pockets, and a cartridge holder. It is common to have one side simple, but both sides are very elaborate and hard to throw away. The silhouette is XL, so there is plenty of body width, and the length is a rather short 90s box silhouette. It also has a ventilation function, which may seem a bit overstuffed (laugh), but it is precisely because it is this time of year that you can enjoy both the details and the silhouette of this interesting item.
-True! This is an item you won't find if you are looking only for rarity.
That's right. If you look for them, you can find traditional shirts and knits, and the range of designs is quite wide. Even other well-known makers still have designs that have never been seen before, and that is one of the interesting aspects of secondhand clothing. I'm sure there are items at Orvis that we haven't seen yet, so in that sense, I think we can enjoy digging for a while!
Takahisa Sakamoto / Owner, Warming
Born in Chiba Prefecture, he started an account on Instagram in May 2016 to introduce vintage clothing he had bought and collected.Warming.The store offers a wide range of items, from regular items to rare items, with a focus on 90s US brands. The store has a rapidly growing fan base, not only because of its great selection, but also because of its interesting business style, which is only open on weekends and holidays.
Instagram:@warming__store
