What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The 12th edition also has a new face. . Mr. Koji from "danjil".
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Koji / danjil Manager
Vol.12_Hermes Turbo
-What is the new vintage for you?
My interpretation is that it is "something you can step up to. I believe that one of the most interesting aspects of vintage clothing is the high degree of freedom. In the past, the way to enjoy vintage clothing, which was categorized as vintage, was that everyone was looking for the same thing. It is different from that, in that it is easy to reflect one's own tastes and preferences, or in the sense that the opinions of the outside world can be ignored. I think it is an object that is only possible when the selection criteria are different from the existing values of whether it is rare or not, which can also be called an evil thought.
-I see. With that said, I suppose the criteria for selecting items that are directly related to street culture, such as those selected at "Danzil," is completely up to the individual.
I think it is good. In our case, we used to have a lot of core customers, but recently we have had an increase in light customers, and I think it is perfectly fine for them to just say, "I kind of like the way it looks. Of course, it is more enjoyable if you know the culture behind it, so we want people to be interested in it, but we don't want to be too intrusive. We want people to be interested in the items, but we don't want to impose too much on them. We want the items to be connected to the culture of the music and other cultures in a natural way, like a game of association. In this way, we want people to enjoy the process of moving up the ladder.
-The one that Koji is going to introduce to us is "Turbo" by HERMES! High-brand and new vintage seem to be difficult to connect, but....
Hermes turbo ¥45,000 + TAX each(Danzil)
The products themselves are good, so they match the recent trend of "choosing good products that can be used for a long time," and they also meet the condition of "products that can be stepped up to the next level," right? That's right. Recently reissued sneakers are made of different materials from the original models, and you may not be able to wear them for a long time even though you have gone to the trouble of acquiring them. Of course, they will break down sooner or later, but in the hands of Hermes, they do not hydrolyze, do not break down, do not lose their shape, and can be enjoyed after a long time. Well, in the sense of ordinary used clothing, it is a bit expensive (laughs). . But still, if you consider that it is less than 1/3 of the regular price, it is inexpensive. As I will talk about later, we also have a street-style background, which is typical of our company.
-. It is true that the item definitely fits the definition of "new vintage" in terms of shifting the viewpoint and targeting the gaps. By the way, are these items easy to find in the world?
To be honest, they are hard to find. It is not an item that you can easily find at thrift stores in the U.S., even if you go around and buy it. I don't hear of many collectors who focus on collecting "turbo" items (laughs). (Laughs.) Even if we just push it, it won't come out, so I think it would be easier to buy and find items if other stores would pay attention to it. However, it's also fun because you can't find them (laughs). . finding your own specials among the many regular items. New Vintage is like a four-leaf clover.
-Cozy, where did you learn about this turbo?
I was influenced by Hiroshi Fujiwara. It is common now, but at the time, the sense of taking high-brand items and incorporating them into the street was very new to me. I really wanted to buy one, but they didn't sell men's sizes at first... (tears).
. - After that, there were a variety of shoes that may have been inspired by these shoes.
They are sampled quite a bit, aren't they? The same is true of "visvim," and more recently, "SSZ" and "GRAVIS" collaborated to release a similar model. Personally, I was frustrated at the time because I couldn't afford to buy any, so I felt a sense of kinship with the people who made these, thinking, "I wonder if the people who made these had the same experience.
Hermes turbo ¥45,000+TAX(Danzil)
-What are the highlights of the item?
. The design is very simple, and the volume of the upper is exquisite. . Above all, if you look closely, you will see that it is casually named "Hermes. The material itself is also made of high quality leather, which makes it difficult for the upper to get wrinkled, so I think they have a very long shelf life. . Besides, there are quite a few variations in materials and colors, and the upper material is smooth leather and suede. If anything, the latter is harder to find. . And there are a lot of color variations again (laughs). . There might have been some special-order items for customers. The regular price at the time was about 150,000 yen. Well, I guess that's a normal price for an item from Hermes (laughs).
-If you were to wear these now, what would be an interesting way to dress them up?
High-brand shoes have a strong presence, but I think it would be great if we could learn from Hiroshi Fujiwara's rough style and have him wear them with shorts and a "Clarks" wallaby without being self-conscious. Young people these days dress in a way that is not bound by rules, which is interesting to watch, and I would like them to enjoy it freely. I don't think anything new will be born if things remain the same as they were back then.
Koji / danjil Manager
In 2003, he opened "danjil," a vintage clothing store in Machida, known as a mecca for vintage clothing in the southwest area of Tokyo, featuring a lineup of items related to American culture from the 80s and 90s. The store is filled with items related to street culture and American sports, causing the "lovers" to fainter in agony. It appears to be an up-and-coming brand.COTTON PAN.. and may or may not be involved....
Instagram:@danjil2
