What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The 21st issue features Hajime Sakamoto of "instant bootleg store.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.21_A.P.C. shirts & F2 jackets & coach jackets
-Now, what are the new vintage items you would like to introduce to us?
This time, I would like to focus on "A.P.C. I wanted to focus on items made in France from 1992 to the mid-2000s that had an East by West quality label tag. At that time, the products distributed in Japan were basically like this. It's not because they were made in France, but because they were designed with a lot of skip, and they were kind of rock 'n' roll, unlike the denim items of today that A.P.C. is known for. It was not punk, but matured from there. Not punk, but "rock" that has matured since then. In short, it looks like something a fashionable rock artist would wear after 1998. For example, a patterned shirt like this one. It's like wearing a military outerwear over it.
A.P.C. shirt ¥13,200(Instant Bootleg Store)
A.P.C. shirt ¥9,900(Instant Bootleg Store)
-I understand that feeling somehow. I mean, why A.P.C. now?
I mentioned earlier that denim has a strong image, but in fact, the image that everyone has of this brand is "plain" or "minimalist. It's like Jil Sander or Helmut Lang. But at that time, there were also CDs in the store, and even though it was a clothing store, it had a "sonic" approach. It is not unusual nowadays, but I thought they were doing something very interesting. I was curious because I remembered that, and at the same time, I felt personally full of the recent trend toward wide silhouettes, so I naturally dug them out.
-The wide silhouette was a perfect counterpoint to the popularity of wide silhouettes in the world.
The sizes of those days were overwhelmingly smaller than today's sizes. So we basically stock size 3 (equivalent to L), but even so, there were times when they were so small that we wondered, "Is this really a size 3? (laugh). (Laughs.) Since large sizes themselves are rarely available, there is also the pleasure of digging for them. As I have often mentioned in the past, the fact that there are a certain number of pieces in circulation allows me to choose the pieces based on my own sensibilities and ask myself, "Is this really a 3? Is it a good choice? This is what is called "New Vintage". I think this is what new vintage is all about.
-I see. What is interesting about it, besides the fact that it smells like rock?
Recently, I myself have been getting a little tired of enjoying vintage clothing in the "this is rare because it is from XXX year" way (laughs). (Laughs). I would say that there are many items that can be enjoyed purely for their looks, which is a different vector from that. If I were to point out a point that further differentiates us from others, it would be the approach we take when reconstructing designs from sampling and inspiration. While many brands add to or multiply the original design, A.P.C. subtracts.
-What is subtraction?
Take this "F2 Jacket" for example. It is like the "M-65" in the U.S. military, and is a standard in the vintage French military, but ours has been simplified with fewer details. The silhouette has also been improved and made more stylish. And they have continued to make them over the years, changing the fabrics and details. PreviousSPIEWAK" was introduced by "PROPS STORE ANNEX".The same is true of the "N-3B" of the "N-3B" of the "N-3B". So this time, we have brought a version with enhanced waterproofing with 3 layers of water-repellent fabric and a black nylon version that does not exist in the original.
F2 jacket by A.P.C. ¥27,500(Instant Bootleg Store)
F2 jacket by A.P.C. ¥19,800(Instant Bootleg Store)
-Simple and manly looking. This looks versatile, too.
It's like an item that can really be worn all the time, regardless of trends, don't you think? These outshell versions have fewer balls and are fresher than the usual cotton satin versions. It's cool, isn't it? Also, I think that these coach jackets are representative of A.P.C.'s items that have the "smell of music.
A.P.C. coach jacket ¥22,000(Instant Bootleg Store)
A.P.C. coach jacket ¥29,800(Instant Bootleg Store)
A.P.C. coach jacket ¥22,000(Instant Bootleg Store)
-I thought the first one was a skate brand.
The third item is an original version of a design that was also reissued in collaboration with SOPH NET. The third item is the original version of the design that was also reissued in collaboration with "SOPH NET. The third item is the original version, which was also reissued in collaboration with SOPH NET. "ROCK STEADY" is printed on the back, and there was also a "STUDER" version, which was very popular.
-It is likely to be enjoyed in a completely different way, depending on how the wearer chooses to wear it and on his or her own style.
As mentioned earlier, there will remain those who continue to wear wide and loose silhouettes in future fashion, while those who are quicker are gradually moving toward a more justified look. From the items introduced here, you can sense the trend of fashion being subdivided in this way. I hope this will be the start of an era in which everyone can enjoy a variety of styles according to their personal tastes and preferences.
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". In 2020, he launched "instantbootlegstore" and has been involved in various projects. Hajime Sakamoto's store, which sells what he considers to be good quality items, is based on the theme of "a wonderful way to spend your allowance.instantbootlegstore."The first is.
Instagram:@hajime0722
