What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
Taihei Hoshino of "Arms Clothing Store (ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE)" is another new addition to the 23rd edition.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Taihei Hoshino / Director, ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE
Vol.23_Brooks Brothers button-down shirts
-What are the new vintage items that you will be introducing this time?
I don't think it's necessary to introduce this shirt in this project, but I would like to introduce a button-down shirt from Brooks Brothers. It is the most royal of the royal road to begin with, and I am sure that there is no one who reads this article who does not know it. Of course, the history of this symbolic American brand, which has been in business for 200 years, is carefully explained on the brand's official website, and if you search the Internet a little, you can find a lot of information about it. That is why I feel it is a little too much of a risk to introduce this brand, but I would like to venture a guess.
Brooks Brothers button-down shirts ¥11,990-¥17,490 (all at Arms Clothing Store)
-I think it is true that you can find them at any store, and I have the impression that they are items that can be purchased at any time. Is there a clear difference depending on the year of manufacture?
Even in the vintage clothing world, the quality of items made before the 70's has been attracting attention from vintage lovers. But what about the "new vintage" items from the 1980s onward? In the case of Brooks Brothers' iconic button-down shirts, the deep rounded hems seen in vintage shirts have become shallow, and the six buttons that were familiar up to the 1970s have been replaced by seven. Among them, the quality of the "makers" line manufactured in the 80's and 90's is perfect. However, compared to a few years ago, there are fewer opportunities to see these items. It used to be an item that you could always find at any vintage clothing store that stocked them in the U.S. ...... is no exception to the rule for other items.
Brooks Brothers button-down shirt, ¥14,190, Arms Clothing Store.
-I see. Where is the goodness of it as a thing?
Brooks Brothers' button-down shirts are characterized by their long length and slightly generous body width. Until a few years ago, the size of the shirts was often avoided, but recently, big silhouettes have become popular, and they have been adopted without any sense of discomfort. Also, the size notation can be selected by neck size and sleeve length, so it is a nice point to be able to choose the size according to one's preferred balance. Polo Ralph Lauren, introduced last time, is another competing brand, but it is not unusual for their shirts to be designed with the assumption that the pattern itself will be worn on the larger side. In contrast, Brooks Brothers always proposes an authentic American style, so the wearer can create his or her own preferred silhouette and style. In short, Brooks Brothers can fit in with the styles of any generation.
When it comes to -, I have the pleasure of wearing it in my own way.
Nowadays, it would be interesting to wear them with flared denim in a 70's style. It may be the most out of place, but the company was founded more than 150 years ago in the 1970s, and even hippies may have worn this shirt (laughs). (laughs). It is a shirt that can be enjoyed with that degree of freedom. As with the previous polo chino, the next five years are probably the last chance for Brooks Brothers' "Makers" to offer shirts that can be worn on a daily basis and also have a choice. If the price of the items becomes tens of thousands of dollars, we won't be able to casually roll up our sleeves and cook at home. Now is your chance! (Laughs)
-I'll have to hold on to it as soon as I hear that! I feel like I have to hold on to it right away!
Of course, Brooks Brothers is still making button-down shirts. However, the oxford fabric changed in the 2000s, and in the 2010s, the button-down shirts familiar to vintage clothing lovers and Brooks Brothers enthusiasts disappeared due to slim fit and model segmentation. The "Madison" model remained as the closest pattern, but Brooks Brothers itself went bankrupt due in part to the unprecedented Corona shock. However, due to the unprecedented Corona shock, Brooks Brothers itself went bankrupt, and it is uncertain whether items of the same quality as before will continue to be available in the world. This means that we, as vintage clothing stores, have our own problems. ...... (wry smile) Personally, I hope that the new Brooks will make a strong comeback, and I would like to continue to wear classic American-traditional items according to my mood at any given time.
Taihei Hoshino / Director, ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE
She directs all store operations, with a focus on sales and buying, at the popular Yutenji store "Arms Clothing Store (ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE)," where authentic yet thoughtful items can be found, captivating everyone from vintage clothing beginners to experts. In addition to his work at Arms, he is also involved in event planning and management on a freelance basis. Her favorite genre of clothing is "L.L.bean" from the 1980s onward.
Instagram: @armsclothingstore
Official site:armsclothingstore.com
