【FOCUS IT.] John Smedley as men's clothing? Discusses the appeal of the cardigans assembled by Reshop and 5525 Gallery.

The other day, in this columnKAPTAIN SUNSHINE” and “JOHN SMEDLEY〉Beautiful Collaborationand now another fascinating initiative has been announced, this time centered on "Johns Smedley".

This time, L'ECHOPPE and5525 Gallery (5525gallery)This is a triple collaboration with . Both are highly desirable products, depicting a completely different story and manufacturing process from that of "Captain Sunshine.

We spoke with Keiji Kaneko of Reshop, TITO of 5525 Gallery, and Lee Mills Agency, John Smedley's official distributor in Japan, just prior to the launch.

Seeking a menswear-like cardigan.

I never thought I would be doing two interviews on John Smedley in such a short period of time (laughs).

Kaneko: That's right (laughs). Thank you very much.

As for the inspiration for this cardigan, Mr. Kaneko originally made a crew-neck cardigan when he was a buyer for Edifice, didn't he?

Kaneko: That's right. The argyle-patterned cardigan shown here today was made inline the following year by "Lee Mills (Agency) *Note: John Smedley's official domestic distributor.

Keiji Kaneko, "Reshop" conceptor

Lee Mills: But to begin with, there was talk of making a sweatshirt-type item in 24-gauge Sea Island cotton for the 2021SS season.

TITO: That's right. I made this proposal because I wanted a "John Smedley" that was in a size that I could wear myself.

Kaneko: That's pretty much how things progressed. We decided on the ribbing and various other details. We asked John Smedley to make samples several times, trying to figure out the maximum size that could be made on their knitting machines.

I didn't realize that much progress had been made.

Kaneko: That's right. But because it was a new type, the time limit had come in many ways.

Lee Mills: yes. In the end, it didn't work out as a landing, to the point where it would meet their wishes. The knitted fabric, for example. So we talked again about the possibility of making something for the fall/winter season.

Mr. TITO

TITO: I think the first sweatshirt project was more of a "5525 Gallery" project, but this cardigan is a bit different. Mr. Kaneko often wears ensembles, doesn't he? We talked about the possibility of making knitwear in that style.

Kaneko: So I told him that I had made a special order of round-neck cardigans for "EDIFITH" a long time ago. At the time, women often wore Vivienne Westwood's round-neck cardigans, and I had a great impression of them and admired them. So I wanted to make a men's version of that, so I made a special order. That is,

Lee Mills: 2001 AW.

Kaneko: That was 20 years ago. I still use various round-necked cardigans, such as Inverarain's, and they are still very good.

¥42,900

So, you went from sweatshirts led by TITO to cardigans led by Kaneko-san.

TITO: This time, when we talked about cardigans, we talked about the Snap T (precession cardigan) by [agnes b.].

Kaneko: Yes, it was.

Lee Mills: The crew cardigan is one of John Smedley's most popular items for women, but it is a type of cardigan that is rarely offered for men.

Kaneko: At that time, this was a medium size. Now it's more like an XS. It's hard to believe it's a men's jacket (laughs). (Laughs.) The shoulders are also very classic. (Laughs) But this was normal at the time.

It is indeed very tight.

Kaneko：This project was inspired by the idea of making a crew cardigan with a more relaxed shape. TITO is very good at balancing sizes, so Lee Mills and I worked together on this project.

I also think that the name is the most distinctive feature of the new collection.

TITO: At first, we talked a lot about designing a name, but they said that the idea was difficult. I asked him if I could try making it myself first, and he said yes. I asked the name maker if I could make it first, and he gave me the OK.

Kaneko: That is not normal (laughs). It is risky because you are suddenly making a version without knowing whether it will be adopted or not.

TITO: Yes, but I tend to make those things first, like the tags. It is easier to visualize the image if I make it first.

What is most distinctive is the use of three English letters to express the size of the product.

TITO: I heard from Mr. Kaneko that the previous "John Smedley" was written like this.

Kaneko: Yes, this is how it is abbreviated. I think this notation is unique to "John Smedley," so I can tell what the brand is all about just by looking at it.

Lee Mills: I just thought the point of view was great.

TITO: Kaneko-san is a professional retailer and a connoisseur, but I have been a brand owner for a long time, so I really feel that just by putting a name like this on a product, it looks completely different. Just by putting the "5525gallery" name on a piece like this, I think it changes the way it looks a lot.

Kaneko: This project was no longer motivated by the desire to create a product with this name on it (laughs).

TITO: Yes, that's right.

Kaneko: I think I liked this name that came up first so much and the quality was so high that I just had to put it on, and I think that's why I was so excited about it, and I think that's why I was so excited about it. I don't think I've ever seen such a cool name.

TITO: Thank you very much. I'm also very happy to have my name on it. The name is unique, and the "MADE IN ENGLAND" is also nice.

The letters "JOHN SMEDLEY" look especially different.

TITO: That part is actually not embroidery, but an embroidery style. If we embroidered everything, the cost would be too high, so we made it after consulting with the vendor. That is why we made the name and supplied it to them. I'm amazed that you gave the OK for that kind of process (laughs).

Current name tag

Lee Mills: It's true that John Smedley's regulations are very strict. But I think we could have done this because it doesn't deviate from the basic design of the name. This name is so visual that it could be a selling point in and of itself.

Kaneko: It is a mix of the goodness of the present and the goodness of those days.

TITO: It's a combination of what Kaneko-san is good at, what I can arrange, and the peace of mind of knowing that Lee Mills will put it all together. The finished product can be worn over a T-shirt by someone wearing sneakers, or with a dress-like style.

Indeed. While it is based on an elegant atmosphere, it seems to fit a wide range of styles.

NAVY：SIZE：M

BEIGE：SIZE：S

TITO: I also remember we had a great discussion about the spacing between the first and second buttons.

Kaneko: That is important.

TITO: The visibility when the first button is open is important. I also put grosgrain tape here, and still incorporate sleeve turn-ups.

Kaneko: Yes, this is a very classic knit detail. So, if I were to make it alone, I think it would be even more classic. I would probably make the ribs thinner and the second button more evenly spaced.

TITO: The shirts from [5525 Gallery] are in that interval. But I have trouble with the second button every time.

Lee Mills: I think it is an important point of traditional manners.

TITO: If the ribbing at the neck is too thick, it will look too casual.

Kaneko: This kind of thickness gives it a masculine look. It is neither more nor less than this, perhaps a perfect balance.

Cardigan about 20 years old. The ribbing at the neck is modestly thick.

TITO: This cardigan is 24 gauge, but it would be much more delicate in 30 gauge, so this was also just right. I think it is an item that is very easy to coordinate.

Kaneko: I wear a size small, but it is hard to find items that both TITO and I can wear. So I am very happy to hear that TITO has been wearing this round-neck cardigan that I started on my own initiative.

Wearing size S

TITO: I keep five pieces for myself for now (laughs). (Laughs.) I think there are many people with a large body like mine who want to wear "John Smedley" but can't. I think that's because I'm not a big man, and I'm not a big woman.

Indeed. Even a rather large person could wear a large size.

TITO: I also think that this item is only possible because it is a "reshop" item. Cardigans are a very difficult item to make, so I think it is possible because of the literacy of "reshop.

Lee Mills: I think this item started with black, but I think the point is that the color black cancels out the sweetness of the crew cardigan, as with the Agnes B. premission cardigan, because it was black and from there I started thinking about other colors.

Black is the common color, but other colors are different between "reshop" and "5525 Gallery", aren't they?

Kaneko: Yes, we use gray and navy, so we offer basic shades. 5525 is the color I want right now! I want this color now!

TITO: Once I decide on one color, I choose a beautiful color when I put them together. Kaneko-san, beige looks good on you, doesn't it?

Kaneko: I have an old "John Smedley" V-neck in this color.

Green is a nice color, isn't it?

Kaneko: In the "reshop" inline, there is a polo in the same color, though in a different gauge (30 gauge), so you can wear it as an ensemble (laughs).

Lee Mills: It's also nice to have a 24- and 30-gauge ensemble.

Kaneko: I think I'll match it with the "Captain Sunshine" polo (laughs). (Laughs) That one is 30 gauge.

Lee Mills: I think both this project and the [Captain Sunshine] polo are items that fit well with who makes them and who transmits them, so I appreciate that.

Kaneko: Also, I like the fact that you have made a proper men's crew cardigan this time. The previous ones we had made were just large women's ones.

It certainly has an elegant yet powerful or heroic feel, doesn't it?

Kaneko: If it had not been for the three of us, I don't think I would have come up with the idea of a round neck. In the first place, I don't think it would have sold if we had made it in a normal way. However, each of us has come up with something we feel good about as an expression, and we are confident that we can present it with confidence.