What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
Now in its fifth season, this Series has been relaunched with a new participating store. In the 36th installment, Mr. Tadahiro Ito of "Ito Shoten" makes a return appearance.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Tadahiro Ito / Manager, Ito Shoten
Vol.36_J-Crew's cotton anorak parka & nylon anorak parka
- Well, Mr. Ito, this is your first appearance since the 1st season. Welcome back!
I'm back (laughs). I've been hearing a lot of people around me say that they have been watching this Series, so I feel like I can't submit anything bad, or rather, the hurdle has been raised. So this time, I'd like to feature J.CREW, a brand I've been warming up to for a long time. Some of their items are well-known, but Brendon Babenzine of NOAH has been appointed chief men's designer for the 2022 S/S season, and I wanted to take advantage of the timing to draw even more attention to their vintage clothing.
-By the way, what is your position in the vintage clothing industry?
Since the brand has withdrawn from Japan, I have the impression that its position is a little low in terms of recognition. I think that the closest image of the brand is that of Polo Ralph Lauren, which is in the same American casual/amétra style category, followed by Gap and BANANA REPUBLIC. The items up to the 90's were very cool, and I personally think they should be more appreciated. ......
-Bespoke items, even current ones, are often seen in import select stores.
. You also have great taste in choosing the base models for your special orders, such as NIKE's Killshot and New Balance's 1400 and 992. Also, a symbol of this was a men's store called "Liquor Store," which was located in Tribeca, New York from 2008 to 2019. The interior, which was an old liquor store, was very cool, and the selection of items from other brands was outstanding. It was really cool, but it was a shame that the vibe was not well understood in Japan. ......
-I see. And the item you are introducing this time is?
First is the famous "masterpiece" cotton anorak parka. It has a mini pocket under the hood, a large kangaroo pocket below that, and zippers on the cuffs. The anorak parka that SUPREME developed in its collaboration collection with NIKE SB is also based on this design (laugh). This also shows how highly regarded it is in the industry. It features a bi-color with a transitional pattern, and is also available in red, yellow, navy, and a chambray material version. It is a simple but profound piece of clothing with thoughtful details.
J.Crew Cotton Anorak Parka Reference item（Ito Shoten)
-You're right, the atmosphere is great. And then?
. It is an anorak parka as well, but this one is rather the star this time. The simple one-piece nylon fabric in a single color is a key point, and the gimmicks, such as the uselessly large and difficult-to-use flap pockets and the slightly awkward cord stopper, are also interesting. I have an image that the item that symbolizes "J.Crew" is an anorak. Isn't the appropriate sense of "just put it on over your head and you're good to go" of an anorak very American? Normally, this item would have side zips to make it easier to put on and take off, but there aren't any, so it's hard to put on (laugh). . But that is also a good thing that you notice when you become an adult.
J.Crew nylon anorak parka ¥5,500（Ito Shoten)
-Is there a similarity between the two in that they are both anoraks?
Items made up to the 1990s had this green tag, and like the old Gap square tag and Eddie Bauer black tag, it is a good marker when looking for an item. But that doesn't mean that the tag is valuable, just that I like many of these items.
-You once said that the definition of a new vintage is "a vintage that is still available in sufficient numbers on the market for everyone to enjoy.
Cotton has already gained value, so the number is decreasing, but I think the majority of items fall into that category. Right now, I'm still wondering, "Are there stores that go out of their way to stock them?" . The only items that can be found are ordinary designs, but they are all basically large in size. Although you can only find ordinary designs, the fact that they are basically only available in large sizes makes it easy to incorporate them into your own wardrobe. Like "Gap," a huge number of items have been released, so it's hard to tell if they are sampled, which is good, and I think there will be more brands that will use them as material for their stories. Please check it out before everyone else notices.
Tadahiro Ito / Manager, Ito Shoten
In 2008, he opened the vintage clothing store "T" in Koenji. Its street-based selections attracted a lot of attention. Later, he relocated to Shibuya and expanded his fan base to include musicians and people in the fashion industry. Currently, he runs "Ito Shoten," a playful web store featuring a selection of vintage clothing and his own headwear brand "geek. He also holds pop-up stores on an irregular basis.
Official site:ito-store.stores.com
Instagram:@mr_t_ito
