What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This Series has now entered its seventh season. So, we are restarting this series with a new store. The 50th issue of this series is dedicated to Taro Kato of "sowhat vintage" in Shimokitazawa.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Taro Kato / Owner, sowhat vintage
Vol.50_Balaclava (U.S. Military, Oakley, Arc'teryx)
-What is the new vintage for you?
Basically, I think it is the same as what you have been talking about so far in this Series. I personally recognize that the items are from the newer generation after the 80s and 90s, which I have been exposed to as a regular customer. In addition to that, they are things that no other vintage clothing stores have handled before. I think that new vintage for me is something that has both of these features.
-You specialize in headwear. Are there any criteria for judging used and secondhand clothing in this context?
I think it is acceptable to recognize non-fashion brand items as secondhand clothing. For example, outdoor gear or corporate promotional items. Otherwise, it is a little too fashionable for me (laughs).
-What is the new vintage item that Mr. Kato is going to introduce to us?
Balaclavas. Many of you may have been paying attention to these balaclavas since they became popular in the past couple of years after the Corona disaster. I myself used to wear a Columbia balaclava when I rode my bicycle in winter, and I used to suggest it as a winter protection for skaters and bicycle riders, but recently it has come to be recognized as a fashion item. I think one of the reasons for this is that wearing a mask has become the norm, and people are no longer afraid to hide their faces.
-What is a balaclava, anyway?
There are many different types of "balagrabas". It originated in the mid-1800s. It is said to have its roots in the warm clothing worn by soldiers during the Crimean War. After that, it was used as military gear until World War II, and its shape is what is called a balaclava. Later, in the 1950s, it seems to have become popular as a fashion item for ladies. By that time, the exposed area of the face was expanded and it became more fashionable. Later, with the trend toward the spread of skiing, more design-oriented items became available.
-I see that it is now popular among ladies as well.
The fact that MIU MIU presented the collection in 2021 was also a tailwind, and it caught fire in Korea and Japan. The context of this collection is based on the ski fashion of the 1950s to 1970s, while the one introduced here is in a different context. Later in the 1980s, outdoor brands such as Patagonia and L.L.BEAN began to release more and more items, and from this time onward, variations in designs and materials increased. In the 1990s, they were updated with fleece and stretch fabrics. After 2020, rappers such as Travis Scott, Asap Rocky, and Ye (ex.Kanye West) started wearing them.
-I saw them occasionally in the late 90's when there was a military/special forces boom on some streets.
Here is the first one we would like to introduce. This is a flame-resistant hood from U.S. Military, made in the 2000s and worn by military firemen and others. It looks like a normal sweatshirt, but it is made of flame-resistant material. It goes up to the neck, so it can be used as a hood over a reverse weave or under an outer layer. I think this item is interesting because it has not been seen before.
U.S. Military balaclavas ¥8,900 each(both Sawat Vintage)
-This is Oakley, isn't it?
Outdoor brands such as Patagonia, ARC'TERYX, and OUTDOOR RESEARCH have tactical lines that they deliver to the military. I think this is from the Standard Issue (SI) series, which is a series produced for the military and law enforcement agencies.... It is possible that this is a civilian version of the Standard Issue (SI) series, which was produced for the military and law enforcement. The key point is the fireproof material called "Carbontex" used for the body. The design is like a combination of a neck warmer and a hood, and can be used in both ways. It looks like it would be good to match with tech fashion. Rappers these days are in the same groove.
Oakley balaclava ¥8,900(Sewat Vintage)
-It's like wearing Nike's Air Max Plus with Arcteryx.
The last one is from Arc'teryx, and is a really recent product from the 2010s. Unlike the other two, this one is made of a normal polyester 1001 TP10T material used for mountaineering, with good stretch. It is a model that can be worn for running and used casually. It is also in season for the brand, and since it does not have any strange quirks, I think it is easy to adopt.
Arc'teryx balaclava ¥8,900(Sewat Vintage)
-To begin with, is balaclava something you stock as a genre in your thrift store?
I've never seen it. It may rarely appear as so-called used clothing. So we often buy dead stock at military stores or survival game supply stores. I think we are probably the most popular place in Japan to find balaclavas (laughs). (Laughs) Despite its long history, the balaclava has only recently attracted attention as a fashion item. Because there is no precedent, I think it is interesting to think about how to incorporate it into modern fashion. It is interesting to think about how to incorporate it into modern fashion. Recently, the mainstream is to match it with tech items, but it is also interesting to match it with suits. On the other hand, if we could get the younger generation to suggest new ways to incorporate these items, I think it would be a lot more exciting.
Taro Kato / owner of sowhat vintage
At the age of 20, he joined "FLAMINGO" and worked at "FLAMINGO Shimokitazawa" for 5 years. Later, he opened his own online vintage store "sowhat vintage", and in 2021, he opened an actual store in Shimokitazawa. The store selects vintage flower bases with vintage headwear and has already become a popular store with many fans.
Official site:sowhatused.thebase.in
Instagram:@sowhatvintage_shimokitazawa
