In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This is the 8th season of this Series! So, we are restarting this series with all the stores changed since the last issue. The 58th issue features Mr. Sato of HIMSELF in Koenji.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Tomoki Sato / Director, HIMSELF
Vol.58_Levis_®︎"Silver Medal" denim jacket
-What is the new vintage for you?
For me, "HIMSELF" is recognized as a regular item from the 80's onward, produced by a brand that has long been recognized as "True Vintage". In other words, the brand has existed in the past, but the items are newer and deserve to be called "new vintage" in this time. One of the criteria is the number of pieces that appear in the market. It is called scarcity. It is not that you can find a lot of the same model, but the rare ones among them can be called "New Vintage".
-I see. I guess you could say it is a True Vintage value standard.
Yes, it is. If it sells out, not knowing when you might be able to purchase the next item is worth it. The items introduced here are just like that. It is a denim jacket from the "Silver Medal" series by "Levi's®︎" and features silver medal-shaped buttons.
Denim jacket by Levi's ®︎ "Silver Medal" ¥36,300 yen(HIMSELF)
-This is the first time I have heard of the "Silver Medal" series.
It's really only in the last year or so that people have started to pay attention. I think it has always existed, but people didn't pay attention to it. It was like, "Hey, that's some kind of deformed design. ......, but if you look closely, you can see the buttons are different! The most important thing to remember is that the best way to get the most out of your clothing is to make sure that it's not too expensive. We have more opportunities to handle them than other stores, and we find many rare designs.
-This item certainly conveys a lot of intuitive fun.
This series was produced in the 80's, and there was a surplus of stone-washed denim fabric, or perhaps the same material was used in many of them, but this is the first time I've seen this design. It is made of black denim and blue denim, and the sleeves can be removed with a zipper to make a vest. The production tag says it was made in Hong Kong, but you can also find it made in Canada and the United States. Basically, items made in Canada with a deformed design have a sample stamp on them. So it is possible that the item was made as a sample, but not produced due to cost and other issues.
- "I had some leftover dough, so I decided to give it a try" is a possible theory.
Levi's (®︎) dyed unsold denim pants and disposed of them, and it is thought that these were probably made from leftover fabrics. The name tabs on the sides of the body support this imagination. The colors are all different depending on the model. Basically, items of this age usually have red letters on a white background, but this one has silver letters on a navy blue background. You can't find this item anywhere else, so it is considered to be a rare item.
-Hey~. The more I look at it, the more I feel the 80's era in the design and details.
Many of them have a boa lining and are often seen in the A-2 jacket type. I have also seen trucker jackets and the like. The body of this jacket also has a boa lining. The front and chest pockets are also decorated with zippers, which are very decorative and fun to look at. It's the opposite of what is considered ideal in the world, which is to be casually fashionable (laughs). It is the opposite of the world's ideal of fashionable without being fashionable (laugh). is a very assertive and assertive style, and I think it matches the current era.
-How would you recommend wearing it?
I like to match vintage with items that have a whiff of culture and culture. ...... I like to wear crisply pressed chinos with Red Wing boots, and if it's now, I'll add an Oakley or ARC'TERYX beanie or eyewear around my head and face. I like to wear a crispy pressed chinos and Red Wing boots, and then add an Oakley or Arc'teryx beanie or eyewear around my head and face. In my mind, "Levi's ®︎" is the symbol of American casual, so I think that if you dare to add a sideways vibe and a current tech element to a stiff outfit, you can enjoy an outfit that will appeal to the younger generation.
Tomoki Sato / Director, HIMSELF
At the age of 19, he joined the famous "DUFF VINTAGE" store in Omiya. He then moved to Tokyo and worked at "SLAT" in Koenji and as a design support for a domestic brand before making a comeback to Koenji. In 2021, the store moved to a new location and changed its name to HIMSELF. The concept of the store is to let the customers (=HIMSELF) enjoy "how the customers themselves take charge of where the used clothes go" through the store, and also to enjoy the fun of building the store itself (=HIMSELF).
Official website:thebase.page.link/nb84
Instagram:@himself_tokyo
