In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This is the 8th season of this Series! So, we are restarting this series with a new store. In the 40th issue, Yuta Takahashi of "Color at Against" takes the stage for the second time since Season 2!
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Yuta Takahashi / Owner, Color at Against
Vol.60_Mountain Hardwear Shell Jackets
-This is your second time on the board since Season 2! What new and vintage items can you introduce this time?
When I was asked to write this Series again, I thought about the definition of "New Vintage" again. At that time, I thought it would be a good time to include MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR, as well as L.L.Bean and Eddie Bauer, in this category. I thought it was time for MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR to join the ranks, as well as L.L.Bean and Eddie Bauer. This time, we would like to introduce a shell jacket from the 1990s that uses GORE-TEX and a jacket that uses Mountain Hardwear's original waterproof and breathable material called "Dry Q," which was introduced in the early 2010s. First, let's start with this 1990s model.
Mountain Hardwear Shell Jacket, 22,000 yen(Color at a Glance)
-What kind of brand was "Mountain Hardware" in the first place?
It is an outdoor brand established in 1993 by people who worked at SIERRA DESIGNS. The items here are not fashionable, but are made for serious mountain use. Nowadays, I feel that this is a great thing from a fashionable point of view. GORE-TEX had been used in the brand's clothing right after its establishment, but for about 10 years from 2002 to 2003, it was not used. Therefore, this Gore-Tex wear made in the 1990s is quite rare. The GORE-TEX tag also has a cool atmosphere of those days, don't you think?
-It has a certain atmosphere.
I think it belongs to the higher end of the high-spec line in terms of category. It has snow guards on the waist, underarm ventilation, three-layer GORE-TEX, and mesh lining, giving it a high-grade feel that is typical of the early 90s, and the silhouette is really nice and chunky. As technology evolved, the first priority was placed on movement and durability, so I can't get enough of this evolving atmosphere. Although you can see it only briefly, there is a loop in the front pocket for attaching valuables such as keys, and it is fun to imagine what kind of use was envisioned at the time.
-And you have model names just like other brands, right?
Of course, there must be a model name, but I don't dare look it up at all. For example, if I say that Patagonia's "Das Parka" is good, people will search only for that specific model. But if I say, "A nylon jacket with polyester insulation is warm and good," then everyone will look for it. That way, everyone would search for it. I want people to always look for their own unique piece of clothing from a flat perspective. That's the fun of digging for vintage clothing. But in the end, you will know the name of the model (laughs).
So - and then this is the early 2000s model.
Mountain Hardwear Shell Jacket, 22,000 yen(Color at a Glance)
Yes, we do have a hardshell jacket. As mentioned above, this is a hardshell jacket that uses Dry-Q instead of GORE-TEX, and as you can see, it looks a lot more mountain-like at once. The surface is water repellent, but as far as breathability is concerned, ...... this model is still in the early stages of development, or perhaps the back side is also water repellent (laughs). The most important thing to remember is that the water repellency of the jacket is not only high, it is also very high performance. The design was developed in collaboration with a famous mountaineer, and it is modern and functional, with a patterning and form that fits well during exercise, and it also uses a watertight zip. It is also lightweight, weighing in at around 250 grams. Apparently, this model was only made for one or two years, and the price has gone up quite a bit among outdoor gear lovers.
I guess there are a lot of old-time vintage clothing fans who find the act of digging for "Mountain Hardwear" in vintage clothing a new experience. I imagine that many of the old-time fans of vintage clothing find the act of digging for "Mountain Hardwear" in old clothes to be a new experience.
When we were young, there were very few of them in the used clothing market, so we couldn't dig them up. But that's why they are so good! The items that have been created in the process of seriously tackling the outdoors are all functional and have "power as a product," so I think this is a brand that will remain in the future. Because the history of secondhand clothing is still young, it is still possible to trace the evolution of the brand back to its early days. In fact, it is still too early to call the second jacket a new vintage, but by the time this Series reaches Vol. 500 or so, I am sure that it will be able to be called a new vintage.
Yuta Takahashi / Owner, Color at Against
Born in Akita Prefecture. After working for "Stussy" and an American casual select store, he became independent. The store is located in a residential area near Yoyogi Uehara station in Tokyo, and is based on the concept of "adults who don't want to forget their playful and childlike spirit," and offers items that are reminiscent of fun and interesting vintage clothing from Japan and abroad,Color at Against.He is also a member of the board of directors of the company. Recently, he is into outdoor activities such as camping and fishing.
Instagram:@color_at_against
