In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This is the last of the 8th season, which restarted with all the stores being replaced! Let's close out the 64th edition with the second round by Yuta Takahashi of "Color at Against.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Yuta Takahashi / Owner, Color at Against
Vol.64_Orvis Fishing Vest
-What kind of new vintage items would you like to introduce this time?
ORVIS" has been mentioned in this Series before. What is the history of the brand and what kind of brand is it?The articleI'll leave it at that, as you can find out by reading ...... The item I'm going to introduce here is a fishing vest.
Orvis is a long-established outdoor manufacturer born in the U.S. that has been in existence since 1850 and mainly offers fishing and hunting gear and clothing. It is well known that you love fishing through other articles in HOUYHNHNM's. Did you get to know Orvis through such outdoor activities?
So I would say it's the other way around.When I introduced Columbia in a previous issue of this SeriesAs I mentioned in my previous article, I did not have the money to buy vintage clothes in the first place, so I picked up and wore outdoor brands from regular used clothes whose value had not yet been discovered. I was strangely interested in "Orvis," which was not sold in Japanese clothing stores as new clothes, and as I looked into it, I became interested in outdoor activities such as camping and fishing, and gradually I started to get closer to the brand.
-I see. What kind of brand is "Orbis" to you?
Like L.L.Bean and Eddie Bauer, which I like, you can find everything from outdoorsy items to town-like items, and the prices are a bit high. I personally think of it as the "Polo Ralph Lauren of the outdoor world. In fact, even in the United States, there are stores in areas like the financial district, creating an atmosphere where you can't enter a store in casual clothing. I think "Barbour" and "RRL" are close to POLO RALPHLAUREN in terms of position.
Orvis Fossing Vest, ¥19,800 (Color at a Glance)
-The fishing vests you picked up this time are said to be from the 1980s and 1990s.
Yes, I am! When Columbia's PFG became popular a while ago, it seemed that only highly sensitive people were wearing fishing vests, but now it is common for anyone to wear them. I feel that women respond better to it than men. The biggest feature of the PFG is its storage capacity. Even with a smartphone, wallet, cigarettes, AirPods, and other essential items of daily life, there is still plenty of storage space, and I think the wide variety of pockets adds a fashion touch. Well, I can only think of it as "convenient for fishing" (laughs).
-There are many details to be seen.
The inner elastic belt is interesting. It is for adjusting the size, and at the same time, it has the effect of distributing and reducing the load when the weight increases due to stuffing things in the pockets. The large zippered pocket on the back can hold a fly case or be used as a backpack.
-I know that fishing involves a lot of baggage.
That's right. In my case, I mainly fish in mountain streams, so I fish while moving around, and a hand-held case would get in the way. The short length is also important. When I enter a river for fishing, I am immersed in the water up to my waist. If you wear it as a fashion item, you can enjoy the difference in length from the top you put on as an inner layer. Besides, don't clothes with many pockets tickle men's fancy? Clothes in futuristic movies like "Akira" are like that, too.
-I understand very well. So what about this one that has a futuristic feel to it?
Orvis Foshing Vest Ultra Light Vest (personal item)
This is the latest model of the "Ultra Light Vest" fishing vest in the current lineup, and it is super cool! The three-dimensionally gusseted chest pocket can hold scissors, and the other pockets can be used in any way you like, such as for a fly case. The neck padding is another standard detail of fishing vests. It is soft and elastic, so it functions as a cushion when a load is applied. The triangular loop on the back can be used to attach a landing net for scooping out your catch.
And it is also extremely lightweight when worn! For the past 5-6 years, it has been common knowledge in the outdoor industry, especially in the trail community, that gear should be UL (ultra-light), but recently the counter to this has been "It's wrong to go with minimal gear when you're in a place where you're risking your life. Why not pack more?" I've heard that there is a trend toward going back to the old days. I use both depending on how I feel on any given day.
-How should it be worn in terms of styling?
To be frank, I think it's fine to just go with what you like. Even a plain T-shirt will look good just by throwing it on, and if it is not summer, I recommend wearing a crew-neck sweatshirt and extra-thick pants. However, it is better not to match the material with the bottoms. Depending on how you look at it, it may look military-like, so don't make it look like a set-up. It is also possible to match them with oversized items to make them look less claustrophobic. The "Ultra Light Vest" is only worn for fishing, but I think it would be great for the Y2K style and tech-oriented outfits that are popular among the younger generation these days.
-Is it suitable for the adult generation?
Rather, I think the point is that it becomes more suitable as one gets older. Many of our customers say so, too. The other point is simply the high utility of the gear. It is also useful when riding a bicycle without the need for a bag. Andlast timeAs we mentioned in our discussion of "MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR" at [MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR], it is appealing to be able to follow the evolution of materials and functionality unique to outdoor gear on an on-time basis. I think it is fun to think about how to incorporate these items that are not originally intended for fashion.
Yuta Takahashi / Owner, Color at Against
Born in Akita Prefecture. After working for "Stussy" and an American casual select store, he became independent. The store is located in a residential area near Yoyogi Uehara station in Tokyo, and is based on the concept of "adults who don't want to forget their playful and childlike spirit," and offers items that are reminiscent of fun and interesting vintage clothing from Japan and abroad,Color at Against.He is also a member of the board of directors of the company. Recently, he is into outdoor activities such as camping and fishing.
Instagram:@color_at_against
