In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
With all the new stores, this Series has finally entered its 11th season! The 88th and final installment features Jun Fujii and Ken Doi of PROPS STORE ANNEX! What new vintage items will they introduce this time?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Jun Fujii & Ken Doi / Director, PROPS STORE ANNEX
Vol.88_Under the Weather & Bagaboo & Pack Design & Reload Messenger Bags
-Now, what is the new vintage item you are going to introduce this time?
In a typical case of our company, we would like to focus again on messenger bags, which we have been offering as a standard item. So this time, we have prepared several brands in different sizes. I think only "BAGABOO" and "PAC DESIGNS" are still alive today. R.E.Load" went out of business in 2023, and "Under The Weather" has given up the rights to the brand and has become a completely different brand. ......
-Some of the brand names are not very familiar to me.
Under the Weather" is a brand started by a female messenger in Toronto, Canada in 2001. PacDesign, which was born in 1989, is also from Toronto, Canada, and its designer is also a woman. The lining of this Pac Design model is not lined with tarpaulin, but is made of packcloth, the same material used in L.L.Bean's bookpacks. The weight is light, and the shoulder straps are also very ingenious, making it very easy to use.
Under the Weather messenger bag ¥25,000(Props Store Annex)
Messenger bag with pack design ¥33,000(Props Store Annex)
-With such a wide variety of bags, choosing a messenger bag is a very difficult task. By the way, the bigger the size, the better?
Of course, it is also cool to carry a large bag with the straps pulled tight and wrapped around your body, but bigger is not always better. In summer, it can be hot and uncomfortable to carry on your back, and this is something you won't realize until you buy and actually use the bag. In fact, the most useful size is about the size of this "Under the Weather". Perhaps because it is made by a woman, it is smaller than other brands. Also, this white "Bagaboo" is in good shape. The size is what is called a "medium," and we made a special order based on the current model at the "PROP'S STORE.
Bagaboo messenger bag ¥25,000(Props Store Annex)
I see. Why do you recommend used messenger bags when you both deal in new messenger bags?
If anything, the reverse is the order in which we purchased used bags, and after actually using them ourselves, we liked them so much that we ordered them separately. The current messenger bag style was perfected in the early 1980s with Eric Zo's "ZO Bags," and what everyone is trying to do is to pursue durability and comfort without making the wearer feel tired. And the brands that continue to do so are surviving.
Indeed. When I hear that and look at the details, I see that the shoulder straps of these brands are attached at an angle.
Yes, that's right. They are made with usability in mind, such as comfort and ease of use. That's why there are minor changes even though the products look the same. As you can see here, the newer products are reinforced with triangles to increase durability, and the tarpaulin lining is made and stitched separately to prevent holes in the outer and inner lining to enhance waterproofness.
The metal fittings of the attached parts are also a little different.
While changing the material to make it lighter, it can be detached and reattached so that it can be carried on both the left and right sides. Also, to answer the previous question, "Why would you dare to choose a used messenger bag?" I also enjoy the fact that the year of manufacture is basically marked on the parts, so it is easy to determine the age of the bag by looking at it. In this case, the part is labeled "06009," so we can assume that the year of manufacture is 2009.
I guess that's because they are not original and use pre-made parts. What is the difference between messenger bags for professional use and those for general users?
The obvious part is the size, which is larger and designed to carry more luggage. Also, pro models are generally simpler to make, but they tend to be more durable and have signature features that represent the brand. In the case of PACK DESIGN, this is the case with the X-strap that improves the fit, and in the case of RELOAD, there is a difference in the shoulder strap specifications, where the shoulder pad and strap are integrated into one piece. Also, many messenger brands accept custom-made bags, so it is interesting to find one-off specifications when digging for used bags.
Reload messenger bag ¥44,000(Props Store Annex)
Are there any other points of interest?
Many of the later brands used the shape of the flap to distinguish themselves from the completed format, such as the angular flap of "PACK DESIGN". Seagull Bags" with its asymmetrical flap is unique, but I think "Bagaboo" has the most beautiful curves. It is very difficult to sew curves. When we were at Bunka Fashion College, we had a lot of trouble with it (laughs).
I enjoy the different brands, regardless of whether they are well-known or not.
All brands deserve respect for their commitment to pushing functionality and evolving it as they go along. However, one thing to keep in mind when buying from a customer's point of view is the price. There are many famous and unknown brands out there, so there are cases where you may wonder why something is so expensive. I think you should judge the quality of the product carefully.
Also, since bags are basically heavy duty, I am concerned about the condition of the bag.
If polyurethane is not used for the lining coating, it is not likely to become sticky or emit a bad odor even if it deteriorates over time, and even if the tarpaulin is cracked, it will not interfere with its use. If the stitching comes off due to rubbing, you can just tap it, and you can replace the plastic parts of the straps with new ones. If you don't like the logo, you can also put a badge on top to hide it. Repairing and customizing them in this way will make you love them even more.
I think there is a certain amount of embarrassment in using a (new) Sara messenger bag, so in that sense, I am grateful that you can get used to it as soon as you get it. By the way, do you have any recommendations on how to carry it?
If you carry the bag loosely on your back, you will kill the functionality of the bag itself, which is not good. Except when you are not riding a bicycle, when you are riding, you should carry the bag securely, if not sloppily. I think it looks better that way, so please be aware of that.
Jun Fujii & Ken Doi / Director, PROPS STORE ANNEX
The popular import store "PROPS STORE" from Harajuku captivates everyone from the generation that hits the streets directly to city boys, and its sister store "PROPS STORE ANNEX" is a used select store where you can find good regular used clothing. Both are directed by a Hiroshima native. Both are directed by two Hiroshima natives.
Instagram:@propsstore_annex
Official site:propsstoreannex.shop-pro.com
