In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
All the new stores have been replaced, and this Series is now in its 12th season! The 91st installment features Shintaro Otsuka of "SPOTMAN," a popular trading post that connects people to people and people to things in the vintage clothing shop-filled Koenji. What kind of new vintage items will he introduce?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Shintaro Otsuka / Owner, STOPMAN
Vol.91_Columbia GRT line of outdoor shirts
. In recent years, there has been an increase in the number of secondhand clothing stores with no apparel experience. We heard that the same is true for you, Mr. Cintero. To begin with, have you always worn vintage clothing?
In fact, I myself never went through vintage clothing at all. I wore only hip-hop vibes such as FUBU, SEAN JOHN, and Pelle Pelle when I was a student. I also skateboarded, so I wore skate brands such as ZOOYORK.
So, how did you get interested in vintage clothing?
I used to work at "STUSSY," and some of the customers who came to the store worked at the vintage clothing store. As I visited the store and learned about the items that Stussy was based on and the concept of sampling in fashion from the owner, I was awakened to the fun of vintage clothing.
And that's how you ended up in the thrift store?
When I quit Stussy and tried to open a store in Koenji, a new place after many twists and turns, I thought that it would not work if a newcomer who had no connection to the area opened a select store for street brands. Then, I thought, how about selecting vintage clothing that has an affinity with the culture I have come from, and started "SPOTMAN".
Is it because the current outdoor selection was an essential element of the hip-hop style of the 90's?
Naturally, there is that, but in addition, I wanted functional clothes that I could wear in real life. I can't play with my children at the park if I wear stiff B-Boy style clothes (laughs). (laughs) . As for outdoor wear, I started mountain climbing and camping myself, and I felt that I had arrived at the right place in my search for real clothes.
Do you have any "selection standards" that are different from other vintage clothing stores?
I started the vintage clothing store not because I was attracted to the "unique" aspects of vintage clothing, but because I don't really understand the concept of "age" (i.e., dirt, damage, etc.). So, I tend to find many items in good condition. Therefore, we hope to be a gateway for people who are not used to vintage clothing to learn how to enjoy vintage clothing.
So, what is the new vintage for Spotman?
As for our company, the first priority is the vibes that are just right for our current mood. I am 33 years old this year, and "things that I saw in magazines and stores in the past but didn't really stick with me" have changed over time, and as I have grown older, my perspective has changed, and I am aware of their appeal once again. I think that in such items, there are items that can become the new vintage.
And what are the items you are going to introduce this time?
So I would like to pick up Columbia's GRT line from my favorite old outdoor clothing. If the PFG (Performance Fishing Gear) line, which has become famous in the fashion scene in recent years, is for the sea, this is for the mountains. GRT stands for Gear for Rugged Trekking and Travel. . What can I say, if the former is like a bowl of seafood, the latter is like a grilled bandit (laughs).
It is a local delicacy of Nagano Prefecture, where tori meat is marinated in a sauce with a strong garlic and ginger flavor, battered and deep fried (!). It is quite a power food!
Yes, that's right. . the image of tough mountain clothing with a more geared feel than the items in the regular line. There are quite a variety of items available, but this time we would like to introduce an outdoor shirt that we recommend as an entry-level item.
Columbia's GRT outdoor shirt ¥12,100 (spotman)
. Even at a quick glance, you can see the overload of details.
The body material is 100% nylon with excellent quick-drying properties. The first thing that catches the eye is the c-shaped chest pocket. I appreciate that there is a flap or a zip, but when you look closely at the depth of the pocket and the small pockets on the outside, which seem to make it difficult to take out the contents, some question marks come to mind (laughs).
Even in summer, long sleeves are the basic requirement for outdoor wear. At such times, the mesh lining provides high breathability, and the lightweight feel is a pleasant one. The sleeves have built-in straps that can be rolled up and secured. . And the sides and back are seamlessly ventilated. It's wonderful, isn't it, this sense of being too much fun that you don't even know what it means?
. And here is the other dress.
The basic specifications are not that different, with only minor differences in pockets and other details. Incidentally, the tops tend to come in larger sizes, which is a nice point for me, a fan of hip-hop vibes.
Columbia's GRT outdoor shirt ¥10,450 (SPOTMAN)
This one is lined with mesh from under the back collar and has wider ventilation at the back for better ventilation. The collar ends can also be fastened with hook-and-loop fasteners to prevent the collar from flapping, and the specifications are ideal for active people.
The chest pocket, which also has a hook-and-loop fastener to secure the flap, is designed with asymmetrical partitions. Frankly speaking, even if the compartment of the breast pocket were so finely divided, it would already be a world of self-satisfaction, since it is actually rarely used (laugh).
Can I actually use these for outdoor activities?
As an outdoor hobbyist myself, I sometimes wear used outdoor brand clothing and go mountain climbing as a field test. For example, if I were to purchase a pair of convertible pants from the GRT line, I would think to myself, "If I get sweaty while moving, I can detach the hems and wear them as shorts, which is very convenient. Not only can you wear them as a fashion item, but you can also use them as a springboard to enjoy mountain climbing and camping. I think that's the appeal of these pants, so when I purchase them, I make sure to maintain them before putting them out in the store.
I see, so you are talking about real clothes.
In addition, the GRT is less likely to be worn by others than the PFG, even by Columbia, and as I mentioned before, it has plenty of pockets and is fully ventilated. It is a must for outdoor activities such as mountain climbing and camping. How about this for your next move, gentlemen?
Shintaro Otsuka / Owner, SPOTMAN
SPOTMAN, named after the owner's wish to "make it a spot where everyone gathers," opened in 2018. It serves as a place where people who love street culture gather through vintage clothing and exchange information that connects people to people and people to things. Also, don't miss the unique topics here, such as exhibitions, collaborative items, and original goods by artists with whom they have close relationships!
Official site:spotman.stores.com
Instagram:@spotman_koenji
