In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
All new stores have been replaced, and this Series is now in its 12th season! The 95th issue is the second round of Mr. Shintaro Otsuka of the popular store "SPOTMAN" in Koenji, Tokyo. What new vintage items will he introduce?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Shintaro Otsuka / Owner, STOPMAN
Vol.91_KÜHL cargo shorts & work pants
Now, what are the new vintage items you are going to introduce?
Last time we looked at Columbia's GRT (Gear for Rugged Trekking and Travel) line of tops, which is a favorite of the connoisseurs, and this time we will look at bottoms. Have you ever heard of the brand " KÜHL "?
I'm embarrassed to say I've never heard of it before. What kind of brand is it?
Alf is an American outdoor brand founded in 1983, and its predecessor brand is "alf," which was known for its fleece tops with Tyrolean tape piping during the 1990s, when the "austere casual" and "outdoor" fashions were in vogue.
-Oh, I missed a name!
The founder, Alf, passed away in 1989, and the management changed, so the brand was renamed and started anew as "Kühl. The brand name is derived from the German adjective meaning "cool," which seems to come from the fact that Alf's lineup was centered on ski and mountaineering wear. Also, I think there is a "cool = cool" vibe to the brand. This is a brand that is very particular about the way it is made, and can be found at ....... Please take a look at these shorts first.
KÜHL Cargo Shorts Reference item(SPOTMAN)
Like the previous shirt, the details of this shirt are overloaded, even at a quick glance.
The embroidered snow logo on the belt loop on the back looks like a signature. . The back pockets are made of mesh material and detailed with robust 3-needle stitching. The name embroidery on the back pockets is also a key point, and what is most impressive are the side cargo pockets. The three-dimensional look of these pockets is amazing, and it was quite a hassle to curve the pockets and attach the zippers! The labor cost seems to be quite high, and the list price at that time must have been quite expensive.
-Is the brand itself still ongoing?
Yes, we do! However, during your time at "Alf" you offered high quality gear that was made in the U.S.A., but now you seem to have shifted your focus to offering good products at good prices while maintaining high quality, without regard to the country of production. Well, if you are making items like this, it is only natural (smiles).
. - I guess it's just the mood I'm in.
The excessive amount of detailing is similar to the tech-oriented gear that has become popular in recent years. I myself didn't go to the store in real time, but there are probably people in their 40s and older who know it from "Alf. Since it is not well known to the general public, I have a sense of hope that the more I dig, the more new charms I will encounter.
-What is the position of this brand here in your home country?
The brand's focus on skiing and trails has not changed since its days as an outdoor brand, but as you can see from the official website, it has recently been developing workwear-like items, giving it a mountain lifestyle brand feel. These pants give you a taste of that atmosphere.
KÜHL Work Pants Reference item(SPOTMAN)
It features the brand's signature three-dimensional patterning, which is also the brand's eighteenth, and this one is as elaborate and unnecessary as it is unbeatable (laughs). The quality tag also includes the URL of the website, so it seems that this item was made in the 00s. This tag has a band-like feel to it, which is cool, don't you think? . It looks more like a mixed band than a hip-hop band. Extreme sports were very popular at the time, and it seems to have a high affinity with that culture and fashion.
-This is another one that seems to have too much detail and too much to tell.
These are the very pants that got me interested in "Cuir". The garment-dyed fabric has an exquisite color, much like the look of Babur's oiled coats when the oil is drained. I've seen this kind of garment worn by tech gear collectors in Europe. The deep, stylish coloring with a slight fade has a C.P. Company or Stone Island feel to it, and I think it's a must-have for those who like it.
-I guess the fact that there are tool pockets on both sides classifies them as work pants?
. In addition, the right pocket alone is jam-packed with details such as the brand's name engraved on it, an original rivet and metal plate. The right pocket alone has a lot of details, such as the brand name engraved on the pith label, an original rivet, and a metal plate, and the knee portion has a three-dimensional form with darts. The right pocket alone is a traffic jam of details, including the brand's name engraved on it, the original rivet, a metal plate, and a three-dimensional shape with darts at the knees. The print on the back of the pocket explains what each detail is and how to use it.
-I never run out of small stories (laughs).
To be honest, I have yet to deepen my love for it, so I hope to continue digging around and proselytizing it to the world. I hope that readers will also try digging for the next topic.
Shintaro Otsuka / Owner, SPOTMAN
SPOTMAN, named after the owner's wish to "make it a spot where everyone gathers," opened in 2018. It serves as a place where people who love street culture gather through vintage clothing and exchange information that connects people to people and people to things. Also, don't miss the unique topics here, such as exhibitions, collaborative items, and original goods by artists with whom they have close relationships!
Official site:spotman.stores.com
Instagram:@spotman_koenji
