In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
This is the last issue of the 12th season, which started with the replacement of all new stores! The 96th edition features Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA of the popular store "NOOK" in Toritsudaigaku, Tokyo. What kind of new vintage items will he introduce?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
Vol.96_FIELD&STREAM's flannel shirts
What are the new vintage items you are introducing this time?
Before I go any further, I would like to ask you, do you wear flannel shirts these days?
When I was a teenager, I used to wear them a lot because they were inexpensive even in second-hand clothing and they were good as a bit of a cloak, but I rarely wear them these days.
I know, right? To be honest, I myself feel the same way (laughs). In the past, it was a staple of American casual vintage clothing and one of the items closely connected with street culture, and there were quite a few people who loved it, but nowadays you don't see many people wearing it on the streets. But nowadays, you don't see many people wearing them on the streets. That's why I think it's time to start wearing flannel shirts, and heavy flannel at that. That's why we're featuring the well-known "FIELD & STREAM" this time!
-Eh, are you famous?
No, ...... sorry. I meant "among some American vintage clothing lovers" (lol). The brand exists, and if you look at its history, it seems to have been created in the 1915s ....... I'm sorry for my lack of study (sweat). The number "1871" is written under the logo on the tag, which is said to be derived from the origin of the original management body of the company. How confusing! It seems that the brand was also sold at Costco, so it really is "American everyday wear" itself. There seem to be several directly managed stores in the home country.
-What does it fall under as a genre?
It is an outdoor brand, not a work brand, but a hunting brand. Therefore, they offer a variety of other items, but this time we focused on flannel shirts. As for heavy flannel shirts in particular, you can find pieces with good colors and patterns, and above all, they are affordable and easy to take in. The construction itself is also classified as thick, so it is recommended for the coming season.
Field & Stream flannel shirt, ¥4,290 (nook)
-How long has this been in existence?
I think all of them are probably from the 00s, but it's hard for me to say for sure since I don't know enough about them. Some stores claim that they are from the 90's, but I doubt it. There are two different tags here, but other than that, the details are almost the same.
-Did any of the details change over the years?
Hmmm. So-called vintage work shirts have characteristic details such as a chinstrap and a gusset, but in other words, they don't have those details, so there is no big difference no matter which one you choose. I never used to look at the details of heavy nellie shirts with much attention to detail, so I just pick them at random, in a good sense of the word, from the perspective of real clothing that suits my lifestyle, like "it looks like a skater from overseas" (laughs).
-As you mentioned earlier, it is just "everyday wear".
That's right. Because they are not fashionable clothes, I think they are items that can be worn by anyone without hesitation. Therefore, there may be no need to talk about it. It's like "in front of a flannel shirt, everyone is equal" (laughs).
-I'm sorry, but that's a great quote (laughs). You mentioned earlier about the quality of colors and patterns. Can you tell us about the good and bad in your opinion?
I prefer large checks to small checks in my opinion. Buffalo checks are cool in an American casual style, but depending on how they are worn, they can look a bit inexpensive. On the other hand, I think that the ompre checks like the ones I picked this time are basically the best. The addition of a little white to the darker color scheme gives it a good balance, and it also goes well with the color of the original buttons with the logo on them.
Field & Stream flannel shirt, ¥4,290 (nook)
-The name "heavyweight nellies" brings to mind Big Mac in the past, and in recent years, Five Brother.
The former goes without saying, but in fact, "Five Brothers" also has seen its USA-made items from the 80s and 90s treated as vintage, and prices have gone up. In such a way, while the prices of things that were normally available back then have skyrocketed, "Field & Stream" has remained unchanged. Good colors and patterns can be found anywhere from 4 to 5,000 yen. In fact, when I go shopping, other buyers don't buy these items because they are "everywhere," but because they are "everywhere," I think it is good taste to choose something with a good atmosphere from among them. I'm sorry for saying something so arrogant (sweat).
-I think that this perspective is the key to finding new vintages.
Anyone can get them, but they are items that can be made as cool as you want them to be if you wear them in the right way.
-The fabric of the items you have prepared for us this time also has a good texture, and to be honest, if we are not going to talk about it, I think this one is good enough.
This one has almost no signs of use. This one has almost no signs of use, but after repeated wear and washing, the surface will become fluffier and more comfortable, and once that happens, you won't be able to part with it.
Field & Stream flannel shirt, ¥4,290 (nook)
-I feel that the skater's perspective is one of the fundamental factors in the selection of vintage clothing for the "Nook. What do you think about this item?
Actually, I thought about it from that perspective as well. For my generation, Andrew Reynolds comes to mind, but he is so common that I can't even say ...... that he looks like a "Fatty" (laugh). When I watch skateboarding videos from the past, I see that the nellie shirt is an item casually worn by skaters on both the East and West coasts, and even by foreign skaters who are not only skilled but also fashionable, regardless of the time period.
-How did you wear flannel shirts when you were young?
Since we are talking about the 90's, I guess it's a bit like going around in a circle and getting into the groove of today. I would wear baggy jeans and a large flannel shirt, with a hoodie underneath. Unlike a broadcloth shirt or a beautiful shirt, a flannel shirt has the practicality of being able to be taken off and put in a bag. In fact, the ease of wearing it gives it a sophisticated and cool look.
-What would you recommend wearing now?
Previously, we introduced Levi's®︎ Slates®︎How about some thick slacks? And a plain T-shirt under the flannel shirt. Or, say, a pair of Dickies 874s, not to mention a pair of classic blue jeans. In short, "Wear whatever you like" (laughs).
Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
After graduating from college, he worked at the skateboard store "Hawk" in Harajuku for about 2 years, then at the vintage clothing store "LOOP" in Omiya and Nakameguro for a total of 7 to 8 years before going independent in 2011. He opened his own used clothing store, "NOOK," and after relocating to a new location a 5-minute walk from Toritsu Daigaku Station in 2015, he is now in his 11th year. The store has many fans among people in the industry and offers good regular vintage clothing and selected items that anyone can freely match with their own style, just like a jazz freestyle session.
Instagram:@nook_toritsudai
Official site:https://ameblo.jp/nooker/
